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AC compressor to OBA compressor (question)

VAhasnoWAVES

VAhasnoWAVES

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lake City, Mi
'97 w/ 4.0 (can anyone help identify my compressor?)
ive been looking to turn my AC compressor into a air compressor. i work at a hardware store so it looks like my biggest expenditures will be the tank itself. my system doesnt have freon in it, it leaked out a couple years ago. i still have yet to jump the compressor and make sure the clutch is operating and test it to make sure its moving air... BUT, onto the questions.

- the inline tool oiler goes on the input side... but it seems to me like its a small unit, though i really know nothing really. haha! does it have to be checked often enough to be an inconvenience or is it really not a problem? is there a larger model someone might suggest? i assume standard air tool oil works fine?

- the air/water separator... it would seem to me like it would be a good idea to simply recycle what it catches into the oiler and essentially create a closed unit that keeps itself oiled. i guess this is a bad idea (i see no one doing it) because it also separates moisture taken in by the compressor too i assume? this means the separator needs to be drained as well right?

- let me see if ive got my pressure swith wiring correct:
(+) terminal > inline fuse > toggle switch > pressure switch > compressor
and then.... where? haha, sorry, im electrically ignorant! haha. im assuming a ground? back to the (-) terminal or grounded somewhere on the body?

- if i were to buy a tank with multiple ports (say a viar) i could essentially eliminate the need for a manifold correct? in post #9 of this thread someone mentions draining the tank? what is this about? and why would you have to tilt it? if its just air couldnt you just pull on the relief valve until it was empty?





im sure ill have more questions, but these are the big ones for now. and im sure i can figure out the plumbing as well.
 
im no compressor tech but i can at least answer one of your questions.
draining the tank? what is this about? and why would you have to tilt it? if its just air couldnt you just pull on the relief valve until it was empty?
Click to expand...
the deal is that it's not just air. when you compress air it litteraly squeezes the moisture out. what you end-up with is a bit of water in the bottom of the tank. allowed to build up long enough it can flow down to warever you are feeding with air. water in your diffs and air tools is bad MmmmmKaY. :)

hope that helps. kind of a tard when it comes to the other stuff.
 
juniorXJ said:
im no compressor tech but i can at least answer one of your questions.

the deal is that it's not just air. when you compress air it litteraly squeezes the moisture out. what you end-up with is a bit of water in the bottom of the tank. allowed to build up long enough it can flow down to warever you are feeding with air. water in your diffs and air tools is bad MmmmmKaY. :)

hope that helps. kind of a tard when it comes to the other stuff.
Click to expand...
makes sense i suppose, i guess i assumed the water/air separator took care of that. in my reading i did learn that the function of the separator can be maximized by having it farther away from the condenser, this allows the hot air to cool and the atomized water particles to condensate. make sense? at least thats how i understood it.



thanks though!
 
If you want to keep it really simple, just add a little oil each time you are using it. I've had no problems doing it like that, and compressors are cheap at pick n pull. Than all you have to do is add a small air cleaner to the intake. I'd also recommend installing a blow out valve, just in case the compressor doesn't decide to turn off like it supposed to. I bought all my compressor stuff at grainger. On my setup, I didn't like the look of those bulky pressure switchs. So I used a type of pressure switch that is used on AC systems but I bought one that turns on and off at higher pressures and hooked it to a relay. The setup looks really clean, and works great.
 
I just did this with my 2000. I just squirt some compressor oil in the intake side before every use, just like you would do to air tools. I have a cheap tool oilier on it too, but it definitely does not do much.

IH392 said:
If you want to keep it really simple, just add a little oil each time you are using it. I've had no problems doing it like that, and compressors are cheap at pick n pull. Than all you have to do is add a small air cleaner to the intake. I'd also recommend installing a blow out valve, just in case the compressor doesn't decide to turn off like it supposed to. I bought all my compressor stuff at grainger. On my setup, I didn't like the look of those bulky pressure switchs. So I used a type of pressure switch that is used on AC systems but I bought one that turns on and off at higher pressures and hooked it to a relay. The setup looks really clean, and works great.
Click to expand...

Definitely recommend a blow off valve. I got mine from Grainger aswell. I actually put two in the system, one right after the one way valve, and one on the tank itself. The air filter I bought was the Viair metal one. The rubber hose that goes to the input side of the sanden compressor on my 2000 ended with an aluminum fitting of sorts. I actually was able to tap that fitting for the filter to just screw on.

right after leaving the compressor I have a one way valve, oil separator, then the blow off safety valve. I then have an old rubber air line clamped on. I ran this across the firewall ending next to the brake cylinder. The line then continues down, along the uni body, then up through the floor of the rear cargo area.

On the 2.5 gallon Viair tank I have a drain valve on the bottom, another blow off, the pressure switch (viair), a hose barb for input, an air chuck, And a liquid filled pressure gauge. The pressure guage is actually from Harbor Freight and is VERY stout for $12.
 
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Here is a good diagram how to wire up the OBA as well as plumbing it.

OBA-cat-schematic.jpg


Something to remmeber is the compressed air is very hot when intially coming out so PVC or other plastic air hoses will not last long here. I coiled up some copper and made sure there was a couple of feet of it before the air hit the plastic lines. A check valve does help incase it was your compressor that leaked out the freon.

IMAG0042.jpg
 
X2 on the extra hose/line length so air can cool down. I use the coalescing filter and return line as shown in the diagram, but instead of a manual valve I put in a check valve that allows the oil to return to the compressor automatically. The port for the oil return on a sanden is at the 3 oclock position, on the compressor facing the valve cover. The arrow on the check valve should be installed pointing at the compressor. The oil return port for the york is the same size as it is on the sanden compressor.

Definately install a safety valve, this last 20" snow storm we got I went out and was blowing through unplowed parking lots having fun when I heard this funny noise every 20 seconds or so. It was my safety valve releasing excess air because the pressure switch had frozen open. If I hadn't installed the pressure release valve I am sure that the pressure could have gone high enough to find the weakest component of my air system and rupture it. Thanfully it only took a couple of minutes with it shut down for the residual engine heat to thaw out the pressure switch. Another good reason for draining the system of moisture.

Jerry H
 
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RuffedUpXJ said:
Here is a good diagram how to wire up the OBA as well as plumbing it.

OBA-cat-schematic.jpg
Click to expand...
that diagram still confuses me. is the return from the separator to the compressor needed or no?
Jerry_h said:
X2 on the extra hose/line length so air can cool down. I use the coalescing filter and return line as shown in the diagram, but instead of a manual valve I put in a check valve that allows the oil to return to the compressor automatically. The port for the oil return on a sanden is at the 3 oclock position, on the compressor facing the valve cover. The arrow on the check valve should be installed pointing at the compressor. The oil return port for the york is the same size as it is on the sanden compressor.

Definately install a safety valve, this last 20" snow storm we got I went out and was blowing through unplowed parking lots having fun when I heard this funny noise every 20 seconds or so. It was my safety valve releasing excess air because the pressure switch had frozen open. If I hadn't installed the pressure release valve I am sure that the pressure could have gone high enough to find the weakest component of my air system and rupture it. Thanfully it only took a couple of minutes with it shut down for the residual engine heat to thaw out the pressure switch. Another good reason for draining the system of moisture.

Jerry H
Click to expand...
a blow off valve is deffiantly a must. and a couple of them may be installed actually.
John D said:
Walt,

Here's what I was talking about. Seems you would have nearly everything you need here (disassemble and toss motor in trash) for 80 bucks. There is always a 20% coupon floating around so that brings it down to $60 plus lines and an oiler.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-100-psi-air-compressor-93796.html
Click to expand...
the idea is stout john, but reading on it... the only problem i see is that the tank is only rated at 100psi. is this a non-issue if the vehicle is running while you are powering your tools? or maybe, "maximum pressure" means that 100psi is the most that the compressor is able to put out. guess id have to get my hands on one and check the tank for details.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
the only problem i see is that the tank is only rated at 100psi.
Click to expand...

Hmmm... doesn't say tank is rated for 100 psi just maximum pressure 100 psi. I guess that would mean the regulator and cut-off switch would be 100 psi too. Darn...

Description of Campbell Hausfeld 93796

Great for inflation, brad nailing, stapling, and air brushing! The two gallon storage tank provides greater stored air power.

■Eliminates the pulsations caused by piston action
■High quality, one-piece manifold
■User-friendly control panel
■Sturdy retractable handle for comfortable handling and simple storage
■Conveniently placed gauges for easy air pressure monitoring
■Cooler running motor
■Automatic shut off
■Accessory storage bin
Includes 25 ft. recoil hose, needle, needle adapter, two inflation nozzles, and air chuck. Maximum pressure: 100 PSI
120 volts, 2 amps
Air storage capacity: 2 gallons
Shipping Weight: 18.80 lbs
 
if the tank is rated over 100psi itd still be a good buy considering a viar tank is $60 alone. the right blow off valve and pressure switch would complete the packages. and youd get a tank and a number of fitting and parts to use. think itd be easiest just to call and ask specifically, unless youve got a harbor freight around you. ill check what we have at HD. maybe ill get lucky. i do know we sell the tool oilers and separators.

unless you want to build some rock slider/air tanks. :spin1:



question still remains... using a tank with multiple ports, i could eliminate the need for a manifold correct?

and where do people typically run their lines to the back... under the jeep, inside (not INSIDE, but to the "inside of the jeep") the frame rail?
 
ya, id like to know these things too.
VAhasnoWAVES said:
question still remains... using a tank with multiple ports, i could eliminate the need for a manifold correct?

and where do people typically run their lines to the back... under the jeep, inside (not INSIDE, but to the "inside of the jeep") the frame rail?
Click to expand...

VAhasnoWAVES said:
question... the ports on my compressor look like this:
99Jeepengine001.jpg


what are my options as far as putting a fitting on them? they dont appear to me to be a standard thread of some sort.
Click to expand...







:wave:
 
John D said:
Not the answer to the questions in your last post, but i did find a 2 gallon 125 psi set-up. A little dissection and I think you get a lot of what you need.
http://www.thetoolworkshop.com/campbellhausfeld125psiaircompressorfp260200di.aspx
Click to expand...
very good find! and twin stacked none the less. we carry a number of compressors at HD, even a model that looks exactly like that with a husky label slapped on it. some research turned up that its made by Cambell Hausfeld, and so is almost every other brand you can think of carried by Sears (craftsman), harbor freight, norther, lowes... its all the same thing.

now, we also have a twin stack that is rated at 155psi (for $170) with what appears to be the same exact tanks used for the 110psi "max" output model that ive been eye balling. i think itll be the pot of gold im looking for, its set up perfectly to mount in the jeep. even the train is in an optimal location to be mounted sideways. im trying to get hold of CH regarding the pressure rating on the tank. my guess is that they compressor is limited to 110psi, while the tank can withstand much more because it is used in many different applications. manufacturing one tank is cheaper than manufacturing 5 different tanks... i wont apply that thought unless they tell me for sure though.
 
John D said:
No doubt the tank is rated the same, it's going to be the on off switch that is different. You need one that will cut-off and turn on at what you want. The 115 psi won't go to 125 psi even though the tank can handle it... make sense?

What the hell do you need 170 psi for?!?!
Click to expand...
ive got some merchandise to return to HD, and ill be picking one up in a couple weeks. id be willing to bet the on/off toggle switch is simply wired to a pressure switch somewhere in the system behind the shroud where the user cant FUBAR it. a higher pressure one could be wired in later if needed... something like 110-on/150-off. they are fairly cheap. first a mini ramp, and now a full on OBA build in my apartment, im sure my roomate will be stoked.



where did i say 170psi? does "$" mean "psi" now? first zodiac signs and now this? why wasnt i informed? my physics grade is compromised now! :doh:
 
i just dont want the tank to blow up in the back of the jeep. lol. most of the viar tanks and pressure switches are good for 150psi or more. seems to be pretty much the standard everyone goes with. i didnt put it in the last post even though i though about it... but even at the system being capped at 110psi there really shouldnt be any issue filling up a tire or powering an impact with the jeep running correct? i wouldnt really think itd be a problem. i mean, most tools opporate somewhere between 90-110 psi.
 
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