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NP242 Range Shift Fork Removal

Crusher16

Crusher16

RRC President
NAXJA Member
Location
Richardson, TX
So I have my 242 taken apart to do an overhaul (all bearings and seals). Can't seem to get the shift rail/forks/all that stuff out. Kind of stuck on how to get them out.

Was wondering if this little thing has anything to do with it?

tcase3.jpg


tcase1.jpg


What is it? If I need to get it out, how do I accomplish that?

Kind of amazed at how easy it was to take the 242 apart so far, but this has me stumped.
 
Man, I had the same problem with mine. It says to use a #2 screw extractor, but that did not work for me. It is a roll-pin in that hole that is supposed to slide out. I ended up drilling a hole in my case on the exact opposite side to try to knock it out. I still could not get it and gave up. I think my attempts with the extractor boogered up the end. I sealed up my hole with a freeze-plug and JB Weld. :gag: Hope you have better luck than I did. Drilling that pin out would probably be a real pain in the ass. I have seen some other guys say it came right out as it should.

Edit-That is the front-most shift fork, correct? That is the one I had the problems with. If you have a small slide hammer with one of those screw tips, like they use for pulling dents, you may be able to get it to bite and pull it out.
 
I suppose I should say, try the extractor first. I found it easier to use the kind that locks into the T-handle. I believe that little plug is rubber and just pries out, IIRC. I may have some directions somewhere if you need. Just say so. The only other thing I remember being a huge help is really good snap-ring pliers. Like Snap-On good. I shot a few of those bastards across the yard when I did mine with some cheapies.

OK, I am an idiot. I did not drill the hole on the other side, as you can't. I drilled that hole out to be bigger so i could try some other tools. Did not work. Sorry if I caused any confusion. I did this about 5 years ago, so the details are a bit hazy.
 
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Got some FSMs. Ill be picking up a set of extractors later, so hopefully it shouldn't be too hard. More tools never hurt. :D
 
I've always been able to pull the shaft away from the plate with the slot and get to disengage.
 
OverlandXJ said:
It's a #1 easyout to remove that rollpin.

What brand bearing/seal kit did you get?
Click to expand...

Crown.

I should be able to put it back in once I'm done, right?
 
What was the Crown part#? Cost and source? I bought my kit and it was not as inclusive as i would have liked, some seals were wrong too. I know the Crown kits have a late and early breakdown..

Yes, use the easyout and a pair of vice grips to remove the rollpin, you just reinstall.
 
OverlandXJ said:
What was the Crown part#? Cost and source? I bought my kit and it was not as inclusive as i would have liked, some seals were wrong too. I know the Crown kits have a late and early breakdown..

Yes, use the easyout and a pair of vice grips to remove the rollpin, you just reinstall.
Click to expand...

I ordered the overhaul kit from RigidSteel. Some of the bearings are labeled Crown, but the rest of the stuff is unmarked. Was pretty happy with everything it came with. Even included a tube of RTV.

Awesome. Hopefully I can get this tcase done tonight.
 
Well, since I have this thread. Anyone happen to know the size of the nut inside the front yoke?
 
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IIRC it was 28mm (I had to buy a socket when doing my SYE install). Could be wrong... Might be time for a trip to Harbor Freight for some cheap calipers :)

Some references say 1.125" (1 1/8"). Both are in the same ballpark.
 
WOW. My drill can't get enough grip on the extractor so Ill be picking up a better drill later. But holy crap this removing the pin with an extractor procedure is sketchy.
 
Try the vice grip method so you dont enlarge the roll pins ID from use with a drill. Just get a bite and pull as you turn. Repeat.. over and over again..
 
OverlandXJ said:
Try the vice grip method so you dont enlarge the roll pins ID from use with a drill. Just get a bite and pull as you turn. Repeat.. over and over again..
Click to expand...

Yep. I'll be going at it again after work. Thanks.
 
Next question.

How do I get this bearing out?

DSC_0261.jpg
 
Ah. Vatozone or other autoparts store wont have one to rent?

Don't have access to a welder to make my own puller.
 
I took that side of the case to a machine shop, as I do not have an internal puller. I think they charged me about $30 to pull it out. I do kind of like the home-made tool in the link. You have questioned the 2 hardest parts of rebuilding one of those things. I got my kit from rigidsteel too and it is going strong after about 5-6 years. You are replacing the chain while you are in there, aren't you? Congratulations on doing a procedure most have never done. I found no help when I did mine. Do let the rtv tack up before you re-assemble the halves. I had some leakage issues when i went a bit too fast.
 
cherokee89 said:
I took that side of the case to a machine shop, as I do not have an internal puller. I think they charged me about $30 to pull it out. I do kind of like the home-made tool in the link. You have questioned the 2 hardest parts of rebuilding one of those things. I got my kit from rigidsteel too and it is going strong after about 5-6 years. You are replacing the chain while you are in there, aren't you? Congratulations on doing a procedure most have never done. I found no help when I did mine. Do let the rtv tack up before you re-assemble the halves. I had some leakage issues when i went a bit too fast.
Click to expand...

Yep, have a new chain as well. Figured I might as well since I have it out on my table.

Thanks. Trying to do this right. Don't feel like doing this again anytime soon. Jeep has been out of commission for almost 3 months. I miss it and wheeling!
 
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