Sooo confused about WJ conversion

i have a D30 out of a 97 xj country, it has a Super 30 kit using an air locker. i also have superior axle seals.

after reading many ways of doing a WJ conversion i would like to go with this setup http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showthread.php?57873-WJ-knuckle-conversion but I want to know if i have everything needed and if anything might go wrong if its a bad setup. i do not want to blow up my axle just for the sake of bigger brakes and a better setup for my otk.

99-04 WJ Akebono calipers W/brackets
99-04 WJ Knuckles
99-04 WJ Akebono Brake pads
99-04 WJ rotors (redrilled to 5x4.5)
?-01 cherokee Spicer upper & lower Knuckle Ball joints
JKS 0.25 Flange spacers

akebono & teves- so im running 15's w/ 3.75 backspacing would it be better to go with teves because they are smaller

ball joints- ah whats the top and bot? i read xj top and wj bot, does the year matter

JKS spacer- does it really matter that i weld it to the knuckle, if i have to does it have to be welded completly or i can weld it in 3spots say about inch long???

im just wondering with what i have all ready installed in my axle will issues occur or not with this upgrade

one other thing i would like to convert my D35 to a disc conversion ive seen some zj setups what is recommended the best way to do it?

just so ya all know, i would like to thank you all before hand for all your years of wisdom.:kissyou:

having trouble with posting website
here is the full link http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showthread.php?57873-WJ-knuckle-conversion

goodbyeXJ said:

i have a D30 out of a 97 xj country, it has a Super 30 kit using an air locker. i also have superior axle seals.

after reading many ways of doing a WJ conversion i would like to go with this setup http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showthread.php?57873-WJ-knuckle-conversion but I want to know if i have everything needed and if anything might go wrong if its a bad setup. i do not want to blow up my axle just for the sake of bigger brakes and a better setup for my otk.

99-04 WJ Akebono calipers W/brackets
99-04 WJ Knuckles
99-04 WJ Akebono Brake pads
99-04 WJ rotors (redrilled to 5x4.5)
?-01 cherokee Spicer upper & lower Knuckle Ball joints
JKS 0.25 Flange spacers

akebono & teves- so im running 15's w/ 3.75 backspacing would it be better to go with teves because they are smaller

ball joints- ah whats the top and bot? i read xj top and wj bot, does the year matter

JKS spacer- does it really matter that i weld it to the knuckle, if i have to does it have to be welded completly or i can weld it in 3spots say about inch long???

im just wondering with what i have all ready installed in my axle will issues occur or not with this upgrade

one other thing i would like to convert my D35 to a disc conversion ive seen some zj setups what is recommended the best way to do it?

just so ya all know, i would like to thank you all before hand for all your years of wisdom.:kissyou:

Click to expand...

- Ball Joints - XJ Upper, WJ lowers
- Stick with the Akenobo Calipers, even if you have to grind them a touch. There was a factory recall or TSB on the Teeves calipers because they were warping rotors.
- Weld the JKS Spacer Completely
- You'll have to change your steering set up when you do the knuckle swap too.

- Ditch the 35 (unless it's a super 35) and get an 8.25 29 spline to swap in or find an XJ 44. If you want to add rear discs, you'll have to search but there's a couple write ups on it.

I did the rear disc swap years ago and did not find it that big of an improvement. In hindsight, save your money and just do the WJ swap and don't bother with the rear discs.

For me the rear disks on my 8.25 was simple and a huge improvement. Ditch the 35 and go with a 8.25 or 44 before doing a wj swap. Just my opinion

goodbyeXJ said:

.......
akebono & teves- so im running 15's w/ 3.75 backspacing would it be better to go with teves because they are smaller
.......
JKS spacer- does it really matter that i weld it to the knuckle, if i have to does it have to be welded completly or i can weld it in 3spots say about inch long???
i

Click to expand...

I would highly recommend the akebono caliper, even though some have said the teves has a tighter profile, the akebono was released partly because of so many problems with the teves, I have heard of a very few that got by okay with the teves, but there is a near universal consensus that the akebono is better.
Here is a mention from some WJ guys that mentions problems with the teves and shows some comparisons
http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36861

As for the fit of the wheels, that is very hard to say, it has a lot to do with the type of wheel as well. For example, I have seen 15" steel wheels clear brakes that hung up an aluminum 16" because of the contour inside the aluminum wheel, the wall of a steel wheel tends to be thinner and lower profile than an aluminum wheel of the same size. A few guys have claimed to clear 15" steels on the akebonos, but the couple I have seen said they had to grind a bit, and I didn't see clear enough photos to feel cool with recommending that route. I haven't heard of anyone even trying to put alloy 15" on the akebonos. Its also worth noting the factory didn't to my knowledge offer a 15" wheel on the wj, which would have been cheaper, so if they chose to spend the extra bucks for 16", probably a good reason. Your also going to see a difference between factory style steel wheels and the aftermarket mod style wheels as far as clearance too.

As for welding, I wouldn't really consider skipping it, but I'm also developing a rep for being a front end suspension nazi. Aside from the safety issues, it doesn't make much sense to me to spend a couple hundred bucks on parts, and then skimp out on paying a couple more to get a pro to weld it up for you.

Almost forgot these guys for the tie rod flip inserts. http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm
I haven't gotten around to ordering them myself, but a few people recommended them.

you can get the WJ balljoints (it's actually a WJ lower and an XJ upper, but the XJ upper and WJ upper are the same... confused yet?) for 90 bucks or so (both upper and lower included per kit) at alljeep.com, just get 2 of the dana spicer super 30 balljoint kits.

Your list looks solid, though you are missing steering. The WJ stock steering is wider than the XJ, and I'm not sure the tapers are the same in the knuckles. If you go to the junkyard for the knuckles, just leave all the TREs in them or even get all the steering if you want to cut/sleeve it. If you don't want to cut/sleeve it, JKS makes prefab steering links that fit the stock WJ TREs and an XJ width housing.

Oh, you will need to change where your track bar mounts and modify your track bar (or get an aftermarket one if you have a stock one) to avoid having goofy huge amounts of bumpsteer.

I agree, dump the d35, get a 29 spline 8.25. Grab all the brake hardware (including the mounting studs, they are splined pressfit into the ends of the axle tubes) off a ZJ with disc brakes, or a Liberty with rear discs on an 8.25, and swap it onto the axle. I got all junkyard hardware for mine (including pads and rotors, if they give me trouble I will replace with new parts) for $65 including a pair of new Timken axle tube seals "while I was in there." You might need longer wheel studs, not sure if I do or not yet, I have heard rumors that dana 30 studs for some years (99 down vs 99.5 up? not sure) may work well but have NOT verified this, so measure and check yourself before using that info.

I have heard, but not yet confirmed, that you can use your existing XJ steering parts on the WJ knuckle just fine.
Of course, if / when you upgrade to the crossover steering & higher drag link that the WJ knuckle gives you, you'll be glad you did it.

You can run stock XJ steering with the WJ knuckles. The taper is the same and the only difference is that the arms on the WJ knuckles are a hair lower, but not significantly. As with any stock steering, if you have a large lift you will max out the pass side TRE with any droop. I ran stock style steering for a few months after my WJ swap and honestly almost wish I had stayed with it after all the other headaches I have had going to "better" steering. If you don't have much lift and don't feel like messing with cutting and welding brackets on the axle, sticking with stronger stock style steering components may be the way to go.

My setup:

WJ knuckles & Akebono calipers
JKS weld on unit bearing spacer
1999.5+ XJ/TJ unitbearings PN 513158 or TIMKEN PN HA597449
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 front rotors re-drilled to 5x4.5
Wagner 2004 Grand Cherokee brake pads
XJ upper ball joints
WJ lower ball joints
1.5x.25” DOM track bar w/ weld in Ballistic inserts & Johnny Joints
1.5x.25” DOM steering w/ weld in Ballistic inserts & 1 ton Chevy TRE’s
JKS OTA Track Bar mount modified for more clearance and widened to fit the Johnny Joints.
Front swaybar and mounts removed
Calipers needed to be ground slightly to clear 15" steel wheels.

Also note that the brake lines mount much lower on the WJ calipers than the stockers so you may need longer soft lines. I run 28" stainless flexlines at 4.5" of lift (PN RE1555).

if you still want to do a D35 disc conversion email me i have a PDF for that conversion using ZJ parts.
bluebronco69 at hotmail.com

couple of more ?'s

um soo right now i have new 97 unit bearing's- will they work once i get all these new parts or will i have to get 1999.5 +

i have rusty's OTK but i dont like the heims, i want to go back to greece fittings- will i be able run over the knuckle with greece fittings and how much do you think i will have to shorten my drag link? since the upper knuckle on the WJ driver side is higher and moved in? also i have modified track bar, relocated higher.

another thing will my Xj stainless steel brake lines hook up to the WJ calipers?

its too late for me i didnt do much research when i first invested in my axles so im sad to say that i have a super 35 w/ air locker- so if know of any good conversion's send'em my way.

sent

I'd find some sucker (er, buyer) to buy that super 35 before you break it... then buy/build a good axle.

Your brake lines will hook up as far as I know, but as noted they may be too short since the WJ calipers have the banjo bolt at a different spot.

97 unit bearings will not work. You need 99.5+, I would just find some decent ones in the junkyard. The easy way to tell the difference is to measure the height of the ridge around the hub nut, the 99 down vs 99.5 up ones have a different height ridge.

goodbyeXJ said:

another thing will my Xj stainless steel brake lines hook up to the WJ calipers?

Click to expand...

Yes

I have already replaced ally my track bars and stuff with adjustable ones, why do i need to change these out? Seems to me like I wouldn't have to use the upper steering mount when I can just use my Cherokee setup and attach it to the lower tie rod mount. Does anybody know why this wouldn't work

truck7575 said:

I have already replaced ally my track bars and stuff with adjustable ones, why do i need to change these out? Seems to me like I wouldn't have to use the upper steering mount when I can just use my Cherokee setup and attach it to the lower tie rod mount. Does anybody know why this wouldn't work

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That is fine if you just want the added benefits of the WJ brakes, provided you aren't lifted too much.

I have 7" lift, but I also have installed a drop pittman arm and I have a drop bracket for the adjustable track bar along with the adjustable tie rod and extended SS breaklines so hopefully it will all work out. I am looking forward to being able to stop as I also will be installing the WJ dual diaphragm brake booster and MC at the same time.

I wish you could just install the entire front axle from a WJ and not have to modifty anything.

lol you can buy kits already all done, all you have to do is weld on a trackbar/swaybar bracket and bolt it all up.

There's also this little company in Southern California that sells a complete WJ swap kit that includes every part you need and instructions on how to do it.

Oh wait that's me!