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Im all searched out. final checks before droping coin.

K

krawlingxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
reno nv
Im all searched out and still have a few questions and few things to check on this is what i plan on ordering.

The ironrockoffroad.com 5.5inch la kit.
My only concern with this is the 6 bolts holding the crossmember in anyone have issues with this?

I have an np242 whats a good sye for this? iv never felt confortable with a hackntap. I have read a few post that say run it stock after the lift to see if theres vibe...Good idea?

Rims im looking at are 3.75bs this puts the tires out just a little from stock is this correct? (plan on running 33x10.50 or 33x12.50x15)

thanks for helping the noob
 
Weld the cross member for reinforcement?
You have a NP242, hack and tap is your only option.
12.5 wide tires might rub on the control arms
 
Haven't had any experience with the lift but as far as the SYE goes, i tryed running my jeep at 6 inches of lift with a stock driveshaft and it was a bad idea, i got vides at 3000RPM's and it was at a horriable angle.

To my knowledge there are not SYE's for the 242 other than a hack 'n tap, i currently am running ironrockoffroads kit and it has done me really well.
 
First off... Welcome!!! Those that are running the IRO la kits seem to love them. I would say if it really bothers you that only 6 bolts hold it on, Throw some welds on it to. Just an idea.

IIRC. There is NO SYE for the np242 other than the H-n-T kit.

Stock wheels have a 4 or 4.5 bs and a 3.75 bs on 33x12.50 puts them about to the outside edge the stock fender flares. Gives it a nice wide stance IMO.


You guys beat me to it!
 
CaliXJ said:
First off... Welcome!!! Those that are running the IRO la kits seem to love them. I would say if it really bothers you that only 6 bolts hold it on, Throw some welds on it to. Just an idea.

IIRC. There is NO SYE for the np242 other than the H-n-T kit.

Stock wheels have a 5.25" bs and a 3.75 bs on 33x12.50 puts them about to the outside edge the stock fender flares. Gives it a nice wide stance IMO.


You guys beat me to it!
Click to expand...
fixed.

but i agree with all the other info. typically 4" of backspacing is considered optimal. more wont hurt anything (except maybe your unit bearings in time). i run 15x8" rims with 4" of backspacing and had no rubbing issues on 33s.
 
if you are really concerned with the HnT SYE then go to a JY, get a 231 out of a jeep with the same tranny and the same year as yours, then you have all kinds of options.

IMO radius arms are a waste of money, but the better options are much more labor intensive and/or expensive.

if you are concerned with 6 bolts, either weld it like already said, or drill an extra couple of holes and thru-bolt it with crush sleeves.

have fun.
 
The Tom Woods conversion is as close as you can get to a full SYE(Its just not a HD shaft).
 
Most people have problems stripping out those 6 10mm nuts or breaking the welds on the weld nuts then they start to free spin. Because the uniframe flexes so much they do tend to loosen up. Like others say, weld it if you are worried about it.

I will say that when I swapped everything over to my new daily driver I didnt have the time to drill out the frame and put in the anti crush sleeves for my setup. I ran it for about a month or so even with some weekend wheelin and didnt have problems, I dont recommend it though.

A radius arm puts more horizontal strain on the crossmember more than anything. (hitting stumps, rocks and other large obstacles with your front tires.) I true 3 or 4 link will actually add the possibility of twisting the crossmember to the equation which is where most problems lie. That is probably why ironrock didnt deem it necessary to add the through bolts.

Just my .02
 
you could use a front drive shaft (same year, auto transmission), if that doesnt work then you need to have one built for you. If you get the front from a donor, JY, then it would be anywhere from 100 to 200 to have it lengthened and balanced.
 
Definitely check into Tom Wood's for the 242 SYE. I've been very happy with mine. The benefit of his SYE kit is going to be somewhat dependant upon whether you have an early or late model XJ (which you failed to mention). If you have an early model, it's essentially a H&T done for you. If you have a late model, he actually machines new splines (on an old core shaft) further down the shaft so that the transfer case output can be shortened as much as possible. A significant improvement over a DIY job IMHO. Check out this thread...

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1039050&highlight=woods+late+early
 
lyleorszulak807 said:
Weld the cross member for reinforcement?
You have a NP242, hack and tap is your only option.
12.5 wide tires might rub on the control arms
Click to expand...

I'm running 15" Cragar soft 8's with 4"BS with 33" x 12.50" KM2s and everything is fine. I don't hit control arms or anything, dont even come close to the LCAs. I had to trim cause I'm on a 3.5" lift but I love them!

Don't go with 33" x 10.50"s! I was contemplating those and those are a rare size so if you ever have to replace just 1 it's going to be a pain to get it quickly. 12.50"s are a good size they sound WIDE but they don't look that wide on a jeep. I love mine!
 
The twisting forces here that I am talking about with a 3 link.

DSCN3374.jpg


Picture courtesy of my accident this morning.

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=245186768#post245186768
 
Its an 89 4dr auto with a np242. I may go the h&t but have a machine shop to the hack and tap part lol.
redrider is that bolted in? did it bend the unibody at the bolts at all? Suck to see a jeep totaled like that.
 
Amazingly it didnt rip off and it was only bolted in with those 6 10mm bolts! I was waiting to upgrade to my new crossmember design (if you notice this is my original single peice x member) so I didnt drill the through bolts yet. Running 7/8s heims and not a single one or arm bent or broke. The stock Passenger side LCA mount got torn off the axle and because that side took most of the force from the semi, the axle was forced to rotate backwards and forced the UCA back. Causing the whole thing to twist. Amazingly the x member is still attached to the uniframes somewhat but it did cause the inside of the frame rails to buckle in. I dont know if anything changed in the design would prevent these forces at work. I am actually really happy with what I see survived. Not a a single bent link and the steering and steering box and track bar is still all attached.
 
regardless of the twisting, a true 3 or 4 link will be much better than a radius kit.

not to knock your products, but that looks like a design flaw in the crossmember, a few gussets and it probably wouldn't not have collapsed like that. but who knows what else would have failed.

OP, for a shaft you can get a front shaft out of an auto 4x4 xj (4.0) and have it lengthened.... or you can go with a tom woods, denny's, HI-angle, or any of the other manufacturers... it must be a double cardan shaft with a slip joint to allow for suspension travel.
 
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