Broken Bleeder-Time to swap????

Alright Fellas,
I was FINALLY about to bleed the brakes after my RE 4.5 lift install. The journey up to this moment was a brutal one. Rusted floor boards, snapped bolts, frozen hardware, busted knuckles, and did i mention rust? lots of RUST!

So on the Left rear drum, i snapped off the bleeder valve. I wasnt surprised. But frustrated to say the least.

So hear I am, FINALLY about to drive my jeep, and I break the first bleed valve. What do I do?

Drill out the current bleeder valve out and replace on the Dana 35.

Replace the entire axle with the Chrysler 8.25 and continue to build the axle.

Bite the bullet and begin the Ford 8.8 swap.

I have minor fab skills and I own a welder. I have limited funds (i just got engaged yesterday)

what do you all think?

Pull the wheel cylinder and install a new one or try and get the bleeder out on the bench.

Marriage is an institution--but who wants to voluntarily be institutionalized?

What Joe said, the wheel cylinders cost $10. Put a little PB Blaster on stuff and let it sit for a few minutes before you go twisting them off too. A little propane torch from the harware store with the PB Blaster will go even farther towards successfully loosening rusted hardware.

Thanks guys, I'm going to get the new wheel cylinder now. I always use pb blasted, even soaked these days before hand and cleaned them with a wire brush. But my jeep hates me.

Had that happen to mine, also needed to replace the line .... it was rusted into the cylinder. You may need some line, tube flanger, pipe cutter, and homemade bender (spring off a porch door)

I know it is a little bit late for this tip.

Try melting some paraffin wax on rusted nuts/bolts. The rustier the better the wax melts at about 145 degrees so it is well below the melting point of many seals and rubber boots. The rust wicks up the wax and the wax lubes the threads.

Heat the threads to just where the wax melts and flows into the threads.

It isn't the Jeep - its the Mid Atlantic. Got Salt?