trans X-memeber stud?

I have a 95 XJ country model that I have just about finished installing a pieced together RE 3.5" lift on and I am having drive line vibration issues with it. I have installed the RE extended yoke that ended up being about 1/4" longer than my stock yoke instead of the 5/8" that they claimed. anyways it seems my issues are from the different angles on the drive shaft.

I figured it to be about 15deg at the output of the T-case and closer to about 10deg at the rear end. I tried to shim the Tcase cross member down 3/4 or 1" to fix that. I was only able to get about 1/4" of shim in there as my cross member has 1 bolt and 1 short stud on each side. I know I could add degree shims to the rear axle but thats going the wrong way. I want less angle and not more. Also would have to buy longer U bolts and I would like to avoid that if possible.

I basically want to know how do I get that stud out and put a bolt in all 4 holes so I can extend it. :bawl:

Ok, I'm not going to get into the whole "you need a SYE, don't do a tcase drop, check your angles" talk. There's several way to remove the studs, as they just unscrew. First of all though, soak them thoroughly in a penetrating oil such as PB blaster (for days if you have the time). Also don't forgot you can apply liberal heat to help break loose the stud. Here's your options.

1. The double-nut backoff method
2. Visegrips right on the stud
3. Those jagged sockets that are for stripped bolt heads (these work quite well on studs too)
4. Weld a nut to it (last priority sometimes, especially after you end up stripping the threads on the stud trying to get it out)
5. Cut it and drill it out, re-tap/thread the hole (least recommended)

I've had success with all of them (never did #5 though thankfully)

great. Thanks!I didnt know they just unscrewed. was hoping that was the case. yeah I know about the whole SYE thing. my deal is I will be replacing this stock rear end VERY soon and I didnt want to waste the money getting a custom made SY drive shaft made for a rear end I will have less than 6 months. if it breaks I can just do my rear end swap that much sooner

I suggest using a pipe wrench instead of Visegrips, having tried #1 and 2 with no luck. Pipe wrench and PBBlaster had them out in no time, and like everything on a Jeep, put anti-seize on the new hardware.

slappomatt said:

I have installed the RE extended yoke that ended up being about 1/4" longer than my stock yoke instead of the 5/8" that they claimed. :bawl:

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all it is, is a YJ yoke that you prob could of gotten free from a local

slappomatt said:

I didnt want to waste the money getting a custom made SY drive shaft made for a rear end

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Don't forget you can run a front DS if you do a SYE. Can save you hundreds if you get one with good U-joints

First you need to re-measure your angles,the transfer case output shaft should be about 5* down,there no way it could be 15* !!!

stud extractors aren't alot of money, buy one of those.

Ok, I'll play - somebody is bound to ask this again soon...

You can also take a propane torch, head the area *around* the stud red-hot and use vise grips to turn it. The hot metal *around* the stud expands & loosens the grip on the stud. This is how I did it... broke a Craftsman stud extractor before exchanging it for a torch.

If you have an auto, you can get a tranny crossmember from a 5 spd that will give you a 3/4" drop with no loss of ground clearance.

hubs97xj said:

I suggest using a pipe wrench instead of Visegrips, having tried #1 and 2 with no luck. Pipe wrench and PBBlaster had them out in no time, and like everything on a Jeep, put anti-seize on the new hardware.

Click to expand...

also, if you have a place around where you can buy metric taps (I believe it's an M8 by something, bring it to home depot and use their thread gauges in the hardware aisle) you should chase the threads in the weldnuts in the frame before installing the new hardware... with antiseize. The less rust and crap you leave in there, the easier you will have it next time around.

M10x1.5, although I've read that it was a different (SAE?) thread on early models. I snagged a cheapo Metric tap set from Autozone a few years back- it has the correct M10 tap, and a few others for about the cost of a single tap and handle. Not a pro quality tool, but it's worked well for the odd XJ repair.

I drilled the weld nuts out and tapped them to 7/16. I think you can get away with up to 1/2", or call it M12, for extra beef.