• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

torque converter?

ktm racer 419

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ROW DIALIN
heres the deal. my jeep doesnt seem like it has the balls it should. its pretty quick with the gears, but still doesnt feel right.

but offroad in high traction situations (usually uphill) the TC will slip. sometimes to about 2500 rpm's before i can get the tires to turn.

does this seem right to anyone?

Im really just looking for someone that has had a similar issue and it was fixed with a new torque converter lol.

its a 97 xj with a 95 4.0, 96 aw4 and a 97 torque converter. rig runs a np231, 5.38 gears and beadlocked 35's

I swapped in a torque converter with 30k miles on it, but it ended up being bad for whatever reason (made a lot of noise and burned fluid), so i had to swap in the original torque converter in a pinch (about 260k miles on it).
 
Do all of the FREE basic stuff first.

Test the TPS for reference and output voltage. Use an analog meter and test the output voltage throughout the TPS's range of movement--watch the needle for any odd movements/blips.

Adjust the throttle pressure cable.

Does the fluid need servicing? Color, smell? What type? Dex III is good for 30k miles IF NEVER OVERHEATED. If the trans has been overheated that mileage interval drops SEVERELY.

Have you adjusted the shift cable?

Have you adjusted the NSS?

Have you adjusted the brake switch?

Post up.
 
Do all of the FREE basic stuff first.

Test the TPS for reference and output voltage. Use an analog meter and test the output voltage throughout the TPS's range of movement--watch the needle for any odd movements/blips.

Adjust the throttle pressure cable.

Does the fluid need servicing? Color, smell? What type? Dex III is good for 30k miles IF NEVER OVERHEATED. If the trans has been overheated that mileage interval drops SEVERELY.

Have you adjusted the shift cable?

Have you adjusted the NSS?

Have you adjusted the brake switch?

Post up.

1:tps is good

2: kickdown cable?

3: fluid was fresh when the tranny was swapped in about 40k miles ago, its really only good for 30k? looks fine, smells fine, its all there

4: curious, what would that have to do with anything? didnt even know it was adjustable

5: again, what would that have to do with it? and i never realized it was adjustable

6: no, ill check it out
 
I have the same problems with my 87. I have a thread going on it.

You might want to look at the TCU, TCU fuse, and solenoids in the AW4. You may be running in 3rd gear or OD at start up if the RPM is at 2500 before you are getting any tire movement. Could also be leaking o'rings in the pistons that engage the clutch bands. See my 3 week old thread for some clues, similar discussion under way.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1049244&highlight=ecomike
 
A few years ago, mine was TOO quick with the gears, but shifted great. But it did not down shift when floored. Never got the RPM high enough to get any real power. Turned out to be the TPS was good on the ECU and bad on the TCU side!!!


heres the deal. my jeep doesnt seem like it has the balls it should. its pretty quick with the gears, but still doesnt feel right.

but offroad in high traction situations (usually uphill) the TC will slip. sometimes to about 2500 rpm's before i can get the tires to turn.

does this seem right to anyone?

Im really just looking for someone that has had a similar issue and it was fixed with a new torque converter lol.

its a 97 xj with a 95 4.0, 96 aw4 and a 97 torque converter. rig runs a np231, 5.38 gears and beadlocked 35's

I swapped in a torque converter with 30k miles on it, but it ended up being bad for whatever reason (made a lot of noise and burned fluid), so i had to swap in the original torque converter in a pinch (about 260k miles on it).
 
I have the same problems with my 87. I have a thread going on it.

You might want to look at the TCU, TCU fuse, and solenoids in the AW4. You may be running in 3rd gear or OD at start up if the RPM is at 2500 before you are getting any tire movement. Could also be leaking o'rings in the pistons that engage the clutch bands. See my 3 week old thread for some clues, similar discussion under way.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1049244&highlight=ecomike

shifts fine, torque converter locks up when its supposed to, the only issue im having is it feels like there is some slip no matter what gear i'm in.

its a 97 and there is no cel
 
We have a 96 at work, at the plant that was slipping. They put the thick Lucas tranny additive in it, and it stopped slipping. Which probably means the O'ring seals in the case (piston that actuates the clutch band) and or valve body piston are leaking, from what I can gather from recent chats I have had. I am still debugging that exact problem with my 87.

Joe_peters,

I don't think there is a true throttle pressure cable as such on the AW4? I could be wrong, but all I have seen is a kick down cable, that controls down shift.

Also what brake switch are you talking about? New one for me?
 
1:tps is good

Good.

2: kickdown cable?

No. There is no kickdown cable. There is, however, a throttle pressure cable--based on the position of the throttle different levels of hydraulic pressure is sent to the clutches and brakes of the AW4. Read, then adjust: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1015963

3: fluid was fresh when the tranny was swapped in about 40k miles ago, its really only good for 30k? looks fine, smells fine, its all there

Yes, it is only good for 30k miles MAX. Normal MAX operating temp is approx 175 degrees. For every 20 degrees of temp in excess of 175 degrees the life of the Dextron is cut IN HALF. You have exceeded the MAX life of the Dextron.

4: curious, what would that have to do with anything? didnt even know it was adjustable

If you are talking about the shift cable: Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus. (Seasonal reference.) Yes, the transmission shifter cable is adjustable. If not adjusted correctly you are not sending accurate gear selection information to the TCU through the NSS.

5: again, what would that have to do with it? and i never realized it was adjustable

If you are talking about the NSS: Yes, the NSS is adjustable. Dirty little secret about the AW4 NSS--it doesn't just keep you from cranking the engine unless you are in Park or Neutral. One of it's other duties, the most important one, is it tells the TCU what gear has been physically selected.

6: no, ill check it out

Ok, because if it isn't adjusted properly it can screw with torque converter lockup.
 
We have a 96 at work, at the plant that was slipping. They put the thick Lucas tranny additive in it, and it stopped slipping. Which probably means the O'ring seals in the case (piston that actuates the clutch band) and or valve body piston are leaking, from what I can gather from recent chats I have had. I am still debugging that exact problem with my 87.

Joe_peters,

I don't think there is a true throttle pressure cable as such on the AW4? I could be wrong, but all I have seen is a kick down cable, that controls down shift.

Nope, it is JUST a throttle pressure cable, the TCU controls the downshift.

Also what brake switch are you talking about?

The plain Jane brake switch--when you press the brake pedal the torque converter unlocks. An out of adjustment brake pedal switch can result in the torque converter unlocking as you drive along when the pedal hasn't been depressed.

New one for me?
 
the torque converter locks up just fine.

so i can rule out the brake switch.

and the "throttle pressure cable" i always just referred to as the kickdown cable. it is adjusted properly.

thanks for the help though, ill take a peek next chance i get
 
Then why doesn't the so called "throttle pressure cable" move at all until you are at nearly 50% of WOT?

Edit: I realize the AW4 manual calls it a throttle pressure cable, but I don't see how it affects anything except when it is past 50% of WOT? And my current pressure problem, or internal pressure loss due to internal leakage happens at 0-40% of WOT. And I have seen and heard of it being called a kick down cable.

????? Hoping you know the inside scoop on this, and that you are not just regurgitating the manual text, LOL, which may be wrong!
 
Last edited:
Mine seems to act close to the same way. In very high traction situations in 4HI it seems to take a lot of throttle to get it going. I'm not sure if mine will go to 2,500 but it is a bit above 2,000 thats for sure.

No problems in 4LO tho as it seems to move easily the brakes don't want to hold it sometimes.

BTW I have 35's, 4.88's, and am locked front and rear.
 
Joe,

The other possibility is that the tranny side of that cable has been loose on mine for 6 years, and therefore the adjustment on mine never did anything? In working on my slipping AW4 problem recently I discovered the hold down plate and screw were about come entirely loose on mine, sso maybe the other end was pushing on a loose string? I will know shortly if that was the problem. I will take a much closer look at both ends of that cable in the morning!!!

Then why doesn't the so called "throttle pressure cable" move at all until you are at nearly 50% of WOT?

Edit: I realize the AW4 manual calls it a throttle pressure cable, but I don't see how it affects anything except when it is past 50% of WOT? And my current pressure problem, or internal pressure loss due to internal leakage happens at 0-40% of WOT. And I have seen and heard of it being called a kick down cable.

????? Hoping you know the inside scoop on this, and that you are not just regurgitating the manual text, LOL, which may be wrong!
 
Mine seems to act close to the same way. In very high traction situations in 4HI it seems to take a lot of throttle to get it going. I'm not sure if mine will go to 2,500 but it is a bit above 2,000 thats for sure.

No problems in 4LO tho as it seems to move easily the brakes don't want to hold it sometimes.

BTW I have 35's, 4.88's, and am locked front and rear.

high range will do that

i have just never had a rig that wouldnt at least move the tires in low range. wasn't bound up, juststeep, grippy climbs (avatar was one instance)
 
Back
Top