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What Parts To Cryo??

Senior_XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NY
-Im shippin my 4.88's, the yoke, spicer ujoints, bearings & races, out to longfield for a cryo'd treatment.

-My question is, what other parts can i send them to have cryo'd that would make good sence to do, & are worth doing?? I thought of d30 unit bearings/hubs which would be well worth it, BUT dont they come pre-packed with grease & have rubber seals?? What about 1-ton TRE's, or d30 ball joints?? Should i do stock 8.8 shafts & stock d30's for my trail spares since im runnin chromolys???

>>My question is NOT limited to the 30, so anything that makes sence to cryo like gears & ujoints is what im lookin for!!<<

THANKS!!
 
Depends on the cost?Gears and bearings sound like a good idea,but all of it you would need to justify.Will a "cryo'd" u-joint still break?Whats the stock price and how much is the additional price to have it cryo'd.
 
Are you talking about freezing the parts? Does this really work?
 
You are spending money to cryo your yoke?? Why would you cryo stock dana 30 shafts for trail spares? You posted in another thread
you bought a 30 spline E-locker. Stock inners are useless to you. Can you even cryo axle shafts, doesn't it affect ductability?
 
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If you are set on sticking with a D30 the only thing I'd get treated is the R&P. Anything other than that it is just a waste; heck even the R&P could be a waste depending on what you are running for a tire.
 
If you are running a lunchbox locker in a D30 I would cryo the carrier. The axleshaft u-joints are a good idea. I wouldn't think any steering parts would be worth doing cryo on.
 
Cryo definately works,its about cost VS benefits.

what exactly are the benefits? i know nothing about cryogenics except the fact that it is a freezing process. and what keeps coming to mind is my buddy that worked for TRW used to take liquid nitrogen, dip a steel part in it and watch it break to pieces when it was either hit or thrown on the ground. the freezing process makes the steel so brittle. but in most cases, making something brittle also makes it stronger as long as there is no shock load. so is this cryo process doing the same thing?
 
I hear good things about cryo'd brake rotors. I wouldn't send them off on their own but as part of a package, why not?
And yes, unit bearings are non servicable on the D30 and it doesn't seem like you could / should cryo them.
Depending on additional cost, yeah, why not get the steering parts and ball joints treated? They'll last longer. It isn't just the cost of parts, either - how much of your spare time do you want to spend on "boring" projects like ball joints, when that same time could go towards "awesomeness"?
 
Since I've decided to keep my D30, I've found one of the cheapest ways to beef if up (atleast before install) is to Cryo the ring and pinion. Google around, I've found this for about $40 for both.
 
Cryo treating brake rotors from my experience is primarily for racing applications. Instead of spending a lot of money on Cryo treating for D30 parts, if you're really concerned about strength and durability, just get a stronger axle and go from there. It all depends on your overall goals for your build though I guess.
 
-This thread is NOT limited to d30 parts so please STAY ON TOPIC!! (Im askin nicely!).

-For those that mentioned cost VS practicality, longfield charges $45 bucks to treat a R&P, & when i called them, Bobby said "sure we can do the yoke" (at no extra cost!). For those wondering what it does, (without gettin into the longer scientific answer), it increases the steals strength by 10% to 20%, (it varys), BUT more so reduces wear & tear. Guys who race (any vehicles), all report that parts they cryo now get 4 to 5 races out of say a set of bearings, VS, 2 or 3 runs on non treated parts.

-Even tho i called & spoke to them, he did say to check out the forums & ask those who have cryo'd certian parts to get some "real world" feedback & thats what im askin here.

Thanks for all the replies & im hopin that someone will reply with their personal experiences with cryo treatment!!!!
 
You are spending money to cryo your yoke?? Why would you cryo stock dana 30 shafts for trail spares? You posted in another thread
you bought a 30 spline E-locker. Stock inners are useless to you. Can you even cryo axle shafts, doesn't it affect ductability?



-Im doin the yoke cauz Bobby at Longfield said he'd throw it in at no extra cost & it reduces stripped threads & cracking at the straps. Cryo'd stock shafts DO add strength & for the mere $45+ bucks, its well worth it even for trail spares. Think about it for a sec, if ur runnin chromos & u snap one, chances are that ur spare stock shafts will let go in the same run!! (ive been there & seen it!)
-Yes i have a 30spl Eaton & u can use rubi inner shafts OR buy 30spl 1541H shafts. I kept the 4340 stubs at 27spl so to keep the weak link at the ujoint/ears. I carry spare stubs so to keep the unit bearing together to make it home.

-Oh & i might as well just spit this out for future reference, i decided to keep the 30 cauz im NOT goin any bigger then 35"s, 6.5" lift, or 4.88 gears, & ill stick to upper-moderate trails & have all the fun i need!!!!! Shes my DD so 37"s & 1-tons arent practical when an 8.8 is plenty strong & a well built 30 CAN handle 35"s!!

Now that i cleared the air on that, lets get back on topic & im hoping someone will reply with there personal experiences with cryo'd parts!!!!
 
i can definatly see where the benefit of cryo treated parts on wearable surfaces are, like bearings and races, brake rotors, ect. but those dont have the shock loads that lets say axles, and gears have. wouldnt the higher tensile strength from the cryo process also make the metals more brittle? i understand this cryo treatment process is the new big thing running through the offroad industry, but from what i understand about it, there is some places it just shouldnt be done. the term stronger is so missleading. i would be very carefull of what you are planning to try and strengthen with this process. you may actually be making the part more likely to break instead of bend, twist, flex, ect.
 
I found a post on Pirate where Longfield says that... "cryo treating ring and pinion is worth it. We treat a lot of ring and pinions for 4 wheel drive rigs and drag cars. We heat treat them to bring the rockwell hardness down a few points to bring the brittleness down to keep from chipping and cracking. Then we cryo freeze them this makes them tougher and more wear resistant with great success."
I personally don't have experience with their R&Ps but I can say that their U-joints are amazing. But obviously there's more than just Cyro helping those 300M etc....
 
-I do believe the cryo process starts with heat treatment similar to the chromoly process, then a dip in neg -312 deg, essentially making the steal more dence & harder to wear out. Yes, SOME strength is gained, but that can vary depending on the parts actual "job". A ring gear cannot withstand too much deflection & will simply crack, while a 2 foot chromoly shaft can twist nearly 360 deg before full breakadge & in most cases, the splines twist before it snaps!!

-I think the confusion here is that there is a HUGE difference in the type of steel used, (the process of forging & minerals used), & what your using the steel parts for!!!! Thru tried & tested methods, we find the best applications for a specific purpose. You wouldnt use 1045 surgical steel for brackets, skids or shafts, but its used in most top quality tools & knives. You cant make 4340 into a sharp as hell sword, & 300M is the hardest to snap making it perfect for super strong ujoints & come at a big cost to make them that way!!

-Hell, the all mighty Samari sword & its cousin the Kitana, are hand forged with 13 different mixed layers & takes a full month to complete!! (dont ask me how i know that tho ok!! LoL)

-In short, cryo'd gears & bearings are a proven method & seem to be most popular in smaller axles given the smaller mass & high stress when offroading. Since not everyone in the offroading community has full knowledge with this cryo'd treatment, i thought this thread/question of how vast is its use would be beneficial to those building there rigs that we ALL love so much!!!!!!!!!!
 
Cryo the lug nuts and spindle nuts... seriously though, ring and pinion.

Just out of curiosity, what are you wheeling so hard you see a need to cryo anything?
I know a couple of people who have blown up 4.88s in a d30 with 35s in one or two trips... actually, one of them is reading this thread right now :wave:
 
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