2" lift kit what else do I need to address?

To keep costs low and get the ride quality I want I am thinking of going with Rusty's 2" coil springs and bastard rear pack, with Bilstein shocks all around and WJ LCA. Do I need anything else and am I going to have to worry about my track bar, shackle angle or driveline vibration with this small of a lift? Also if I need more life would boomerang shackles be worth it to me for angles and or ride/travel? I have a 98' UpCountry that is tired and sagging, just looking for a better ride and to keep the 30"s from rubbing.

I was running a small 2 inch lift on my 99, I did drop the trans 3/4 of an inch, but otherwise did not have to change anything. If you like the ride you currently have, you could just throw a small block under the leafs for your 2 inches in the rear. Also if cost is a concern, there is nothing wrong with a spacer up front as well. If you wheel a lot, you could possibly max out your shocks at full droop, but you have to try pretty hard to do that, especially if you are not disconnecting the sway bar. I wish I could convince myself to be happy with 2 inches. Enjoy!!

Don't use lift blocks for the rear. They are homo.

I suppose that last statement would be somewhat true, if you were lifting it 8 inches. But for 2 inches it is an effective, inexpensive option. If someone can come up with a more logical arguement than the last clearly brilliant person, I am fine with being corrected.

You should also budget for a SYE kit since the odds of needing one are not in your favor.

An SYE at 2" seems unlikely, but I know it varies from XJ to XJ. If you are planning on getting the yellow Bilsteins they measure a little longer than stock so you should be fine. If your springs are sagging that bad in the rear, don't use a block or extended shackle, it's just going to make them get worse faster. Either bastard packs or new leaf springs would be good. I added two inches of lift to my 2001 with new Upcountry springs and a Rusty's .75" shackle. I have no vibes and no SYE or transfer case lowering.

When I was at ~2", I remember wishing I'd sprung for an adjustable track bar... Ride quality will take a noticeable hit when there is constant lateral tension on the front axle.

with "only" a 2" block and lightweight factory leafs, you will get a lot of axlewarp under hard acceleration, even with the t-case in hight range. It might be OK with a stiffer bastard pack, but I wouldn't chance it.
SYE shouldnt be req'd with only 2".

I just lifted my daily driver up two inches with spacers in the front on new stock springs, and HD rear leaf pack in the rear. It netted a full 2" in the front, and almost 3 in the rear. I didnt notice any vibrations at all (although I also changed every U-joint on it while doing the work, so they are new), and no other ill effects. Mine is a 96 with AW4/231.

As others have mentioned, at 2" you're probably not going to run into any major issues. However, what I'd recommend doing is the following:

- Replace your UpCountry springs with... New UpCountry springs. Do a 1" spacer at the front and extended shackles by the same amount at the rear. 2" of lift over stock for less than the price of 2" springs.

- Take the opportunity to renew the upper and lower control arm bushings.

- If necessary, relocate the stock trackbar after you've had a chance to drive it for a while and see how things feel; I ran the stock trackbar at 3" after relocating it and it worked fine. The only reason I went to an adjustable was that 4.5" was on the horizon, so I figured I'd get that out of the way early.

Actually, something just occurred to me: you say you're looking for 2" of lift. Is that 2" of lift over and above what the UpCountry springs provide? Since they give an inch of lift over stock, you're really talking about a total of 3" - which changes things slightly.

Not looking at and would never consider lift blocks in the rear, just don't like them.

Yes I was thinking 2" of actual lift from what I have... didn't really think about that, so a 3" lift from RC, RE or OME would actually only give me 2" over my factory height huh? Doing 2" springs and or spacers front and rear to only net 1" of actual lift (other than leveling out the rig again) sounds like a lot of work for not.

When I have the time I tend to do a lot of wheeling in AZ usually in the mnts. and canyons E, SE of Phoenix. So I am looking for new springs to replace the stock tired ones that will give a little bit of lift yet still be similar to factory spring rate for a nice ride, with a good set of shocks like the Bilsteins to keep things under control. I was also looking at a smaller lift so I could use the curved WJ LCA to keep the tires from rubbing on them at full lock. Would those work on a 3" lift (if worth it) and how would 30"s look on it? Mine still have 2/3 their tread and I don't feel like buying new ones again.

nrwphoto said:

Yes I was thinking 2" of actual lift from what I have... didn't really think about that, so a 3" lift from RC, RE or OME would actually only give me 2" over my factory height huh?

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Depending on how shot your springs are currently, you may net the full 3" over the standard springs. UpCountry springs don't tend to sag as badly as the standard ones, but without seeing your XJ it's hard to say.

Doing 2" springs and or spacers front and rear to only net 1" of actual lift (other than leveling out the rig again) sounds like a lot of work for not.

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Possibly, but consider that you're doing this to a budget. New UpCountry springs plus the spacers & shackles would get you up to 2" over stock; your next reasonable option from there (based on what's on the market) would be 3" springs.

When I have the time I tend to do a lot of wheeling in AZ usually in the mnts. and canyons E, SE of Phoenix. So I am looking for new springs to replace the stock tired ones that will give a little bit of lift yet still be similar to factory spring rate for a nice ride, with a good set of shocks like the Bilsteins to keep things under control.

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OME 3" springs and shocks; ride quality is excellent. Be aware of the fact that 3" is typically where you have to start looking into modifications beyond just throwing in springs or spacers - for example, at 3" you shouldn't need an adjustable trackbar or SYE, but YMMV. Degree shims for the rear leaf pack would be a good idea, though.

I was also looking at a smaller lift so I could use the curved WJ LCA to keep the tires from rubbing on them at full lock. Would those work on a 3" lift (if worth it) and how would 30"s look on it? Mine still have 2/3 their tread and I don't feel like buying new ones again.

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The WJ LCAs may help. Having said that, I ran 31" tyres on an LP30 at 3" of lift and stock UCAs/LCAs with no full-lock rubbing. Again, YMMV, but it is possible that you may not need them.

new springs to replace the stock tired ones
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X2
best Idea much better then baster packing old tired springs or add a leafing same old springs.