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Fender Flares Hardware

BostonIrish

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cape Cod
99 Cherokee Sport..got a free set of fender flares missing all the hardware..any idea a source to order the hardware? People suggested 3M tape..but I dont think thats gonna hold....
 
99 Cherokee Sport..got a free set of fender flares missing all the hardware..any idea a source to order the hardware?

Don't bother with the junkyard for these - chances are the nuts on the backside of the fender that hold the retainer clips in place will be rusted onto the studs, which will shear as soon as you try to twist the nuts off of them. I had to go through this a couple of months ago and the best bet that I eventually came up with was the dealer.

Option two: check the online parts sources in this Google search.

People suggested 3M tape..but I dont think thats gonna hold....

No. It absolutely will not - at least, not for any appreciable amount of time. Those retainer clips act as both a retainer and a light spring, providing pressure against the fender on the flare's lip. Adhesive alone won't cut it.
 
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Out here (yay Massachusetts rust...) you're never gonna find them intact in the scrapyard.

option 1 - find em almost intact in the scrapyard, grind the remains of the broken studs out, tack weld some #10 bolts in, make use of washers and nuts.

option 2 - do a bit of searching, wish I was awake enough to find it right now. At some point in the past I posted a full list of part numbers for these, which you can plug into the sites given by casm's search and buy hardware from. Just make sure I listed em for the 97 and later not 96 and earlier, because they are different.
 
option 1 - find em almost intact in the scrapyard, grind the remains of the broken studs out, tack weld some #10 bolts in, make use of washers and nuts.

Expoxy can be substituted for welding.

Check the For Sale/Parts Wanted section, for somebody who removed their flares.
 
x2. I cut the broken studs flush, drilled and tapped the holes, and used a bit of JBWeld on the new bolts. Working fine so far.
 
may sound crazy, but have you tried a dealer? those aren't always THAT expensive...at least individually.

otherwise, try Platinum Auto in S. Yarmouth...or South Shore Auto in Plymouth...both of those places have new & used parts around.
 
x2. I cut the broken studs flush, drilled and tapped the holes, and used a bit of JBWeld on the new bolts. Working fine so far.

I cut mine flush and drilled the old studs out and just ran bolts through. I thought about JBwelding the new bolts in place but was in a hurry. I was able to get a wrench on the back of the bolts to hold then in place though. Kind of a tight spot to fish the bolts through but not really a big deal. Next time I am going to JBweld my own studs in place though.
 
I cut mine flush and drilled the old studs out and just ran bolts through. I thought about JBwelding the new bolts in place but was in a hurry. I was able to get a wrench on the back of the bolts to hold then in place though. Kind of a tight spot to fish the bolts through but not really a big deal. Next time I am going to JBweld my own studs in place though.

this, and make sure you get stainless hardware, or they'll be permanently attached after the first winter.
 
Thanks...the Morris site only has up to 1996..not sure if they'll work.I know where Platinum Auto is in Yarmouth..used to hang around with Jay alot back in the day...
 
I guarantee you that the 84-96 ones from Morris will not work with a 97 and up, the flare mounting design is different.

OEM mounting parts you need (1 each) :
5515 5674AB (rear right half)
5515 5675AB (rear left half)
5515 5676AE (front right half)
5515 5677AE (front left half)

According to the catalog you also need 14 of J420 0408 (hex nut w/ captured cone washer, M5x0.80 thread) and 6 of 6505 049AA (hex nut, M5x0.80 thread) but I would buy those from somewhere other than the factory, the factory ones are expensive and we KNOW they're gonna rust. Try fastenal or grainger, though they may want you to buy a significant quantity.
 
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