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Best draglink/tierod unit for stock position?

E

Ed Wulfe+

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Apple Valley, CA (So Cal)
I've replaced two factory units, but at 200Kmi I guess i can't complain too much. What's a good upgrade--Currie? Thanks for your input.
 
Ed Wulfe+ said:
What's a good upgrade--Currie? Thanks for your input.
Click to expand...

Currie'a probably the best stock replacement.

You said "stock position". I'm assuming that doesn't mean stock height but if it does the ball joints in the currie setup are angled to compensate for lifted suspensions and allow more down travel without binding. They may bind on up travel @ stock suspension heights.

I'd second the zj upgrade.
 
Last edited:
The problem, as I see it, with the stock set-up is the non replaceable end on the drag link that connects to the passenger side. Is this replaceable on the Currie unit? The angled joints in the Currie unit would be nice with my 6+" of lift. When you suggest the ZJ upgrade are you talking just about the tirerod, or the tierod draglink assembly?
 
Does not look to be removable from this pic:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=1220

For the ZJ, the upgrade is in the tie-rod only.

If I am reading correctly you are looking for minimal modification, while trying to eliminate having to buy an entire drag link, because the rod end wore out after roughly 100k? The currie may last longer, if the current joint is binding. Pull off the grease boot and check if the outer metal guard is mushroomed over
 
what he said

ya the currie has the "built in" non replaceable joint like a stock drag link

it is kinda a "drag" you can not replace or rebuilt that joint

in other words currie is great - OEM fit but stronger material and beefier TRE's but if you are not lifted it actually would be a tight fit - it is about 350 bucks so the v8 tie rod or aftermarket tie rod with better/ strong TRE;s and a new stock drag link is cheaper than the currie and would be a better fit

if you are lifted a stock style set up will wear much faster with 4,5 and 6+ inches of lift due to the angles... there are no other alternatives to use stock TRE;s unless you drill for heims like rock krawler, iron rock off road, rustys OTK that uses heims or drill and ream for 1 ton TRE;s like JCR, etc...

how much lift ya running?
 
ah saw your profile on your post so i assume you have 5.5 - 6 inches of lift with your RE lift

currie would be my vote - V8 tie rod if you do not want to spend the coin with new XJ drag link
 
I know people suggest the ZJ tie rod, but unless you find one used for cheap. Better off to go with something like the ironman4x4fab tie rod + TRE's. The thing is amazing.
Not sure how much lift it is for, but the rugged ridge setup looks pretty nice.
 
piling on the list for the V8 ZJ tie rod... I have never paid more than 20 bucks for them at the junkyard. I have landed on mine pretty hard (scraped it up, left rock dust all over it) and have yet to break it.

Do yourself a favor and buy stainless steel cotter pins though, I believe a pack of 3 1.5" x 1/8" or 2" x 1/8" costs under 2 dollars at Home Depot. Stainless is so much easier to get out after a bit of rust, though you don't have as much to worry about there unless you drive on the beach.
 
Id go with an upgraded tie rod unless you wanna spend the money on an otk setup.

And dont get the rugged ridge setup its shit.
 
Thanks for the input. Does anyone know why the drag link end is fixed? It looks like some fab work could yield a replaceable unit. I am surprised that none of our fab artists have tried this.
 
zj tie rod in pic, drag link fixed at knuckle end, the adjuster sleeve is by the pitman arm.

scan1025.jpg
 
The best thing about the currie is the angled tie rod end at the pitman arm, it allows about 6-7" of lift to FULLY articulate a 12-14" travel shock.

76930_1717501305341_1472498203_31795388_2766135_n.jpg


Thats a 12" travel shock on a 6.5" lifted XJ. theres still over 8" of usable down travel at full droop, before any binding.

I still dont know why anyone ever destroys thier stock knuckles and drills em out to put anything else on their jeep XJ/TJ...
 
rockclimber said:
http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=44&categoryId=7
Click to expand...


Agreed. Buy this setup and you'll never get another steering kit. I bought a TnT tie rod and bent it after one trip. My Currie tie-rod is bent now too, but apparently all I need to do is throw it in a press and bend it back. So far, I've just adjusted the toe back to normal and drove it without issue.

Only mod I'd do (and I'm going to do) for the steering is to flip the driver's side TRE over the knuckle to get it higher out of the rocks.



I guess WJ knuckles and JKS steering links are an option, but its much more expensive and time consuming.
 
Rockclimber,
Your link shows what appears to be a Currie drag link and a custom tie rod. You mention that the TREs are replaceable. I assume that you are talking about the TREs on the tie rod. You also mention that the drag link is 4340 sprung steel, but I think that you are actually talking about the tie rod. Would you please clarify.
 
Ed Wulfe+ said:
Rockclimber,
Your link shows what appears to be a Currie drag link and a custom tie rod. You mention that the TREs are replaceable. I assume that you are talking about the TREs on the tie rod. You also mention that the drag link is 4340 sprung steel, but I think that you are actually talking about the tie rod. Would you please clarify.
Click to expand...

it is a currie drag link with a custom 4340 sprung steel tie rod... designed by Blaine... who also designed the original currie system.

my mind said tie rod and my fingers typed drag link. so yes, the TIE ROD is 4340 sprung.

ALL of the TRE's are currie TRE's and are replaceable.

check the JF thread I posted it has plenty of good info....

this will be the next, and last steering kit I buy before hydro...(hydro assist will be added to this kit sometime down the line)
 
rockclimber said:
this will be the next, and last steering kit I buy before hydro...(hydro assist will be added to this kit sometime down the line)
Click to expand...

Hyrdo assist + inverted Y steering = not very good at all...
 
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