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Big problem, Could use some info

CodyJames

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Olathe, KS
Normal day. I drive to work like I always do. Well while driving my XJ looses some power. So I keep driving. I here a odd faint tap tap tap sound but since me XJ squeaks so much I did not think it was mechanical. so i drove with that sound for about a minute Well before I know it, it turns in to a knock knock knock, so I slow down and then steam rushes out from under the hood. I pull over and shut it off. I opened the hood to let the steam out and the 15 degree wind cool it off. The valve cover was smoking some. The temp gauge was a little below normal but not over 210 so I guess the gauge lied. I come back after getting a ride form my friend to start it up nine hours later. Its starts but idles very very ruff. I have not tried driving it yet.

It is a 2001 so I am worried about the head. What are the symptoms of a cracked head?

What other damages has pry happened?

Average cost to fix it? I got it for 3000 so I realy dont want to pay 2000 in repair.

I need it for work by Dec 10

Thanks NAXJA community


2001 XJ
155,xxx Miles
 
Re: Big problem, Coudl use some info

If the 0331 head cracks, it almost always cracks between cylinders 3-4 as that is where the casting defect is.

For an initial visual test (which often tells the story): Some are able to see the crack(s) just by removing the oil filler cap and looking in with a light. Others pull the valve cover off and give it a good visual, again especially in the 3-4 area.

Of course, there are tests that can also be performed like the block test, cooling system pressure test, cylinder leakdown test.
 
Re: Big problem, Coudl use some info

knock knock knock generally means bottom end damage.... at least you turned it off before you blew the motor up.. which if you try driving it home will likely happen.

I'm guessing you lost a few con rod bolts or bent a rod or something... knockaknocka

long story short, don't bet on driving it to work on the 10th

*edit that being said the other two above me mention the steam again.. so ya could be overheating. you get some wicked pinging/knocking when it's too hot..if it's still idling rough when cold though somethin' is fooked
 
Re: Big problem, Coudl use some info

Pull your dipstick...look like oil or a chocolate milkshake?

When you say "steam"...was it smoke or actual steam?

I will have to look tommorow. It was steam coming out of the engien bay, but you could see smoke coming from around the valve cover seal. Its starts but idles super super ruff.
 
Re: Big problem, Coudl use some info

knock knock knock generally means bottom end damage.... at least you turned it off before you blew the motor up.. which if you try driving it home will likely happen.

I'm guessing you lost a few con rod bolts or bent a rod or something... knockaknocka

long story short, don't bet on driving it to work on the 10th

I think it was a knock, well it kinda sounded more like a rattle. Between a rattle and knock.
 
Re: Big problem, Coudl use some info

I know a ford is a completely different engine.... but, similar problem happened to my brothers engine in his Focus recently... it was a dropped valve. So, sounds like a valve problem. Makes sense too.
 
Last edited:
Re: Big problem, Coudl use some info

Where was your oil pressure when all this happened?

I'd start with a visual head inspection (pulling valve cover) and a leak down test.
 
Re: Big problem, Coudl use some info

Where was your oil pressure when all this happened?

I'd start with a visual head inspection (pulling valve cover) and a leak down test.

Never looked at it. But ut was my radiator cause the fluid looked like it had red clay in it. it was bad and over heated cause I never checked the fluid. Could have clogged the thermostat up. A 100 dollar flush pry cost me a 2000 head and labor
 
Re: Big problem, Coudl use some info

Any white smoke, milkshake, check codes, check compression, pressure check cooling system, block check through cooling system,,,,
 
I bet you can fix it for under 1000... craigslist motor shouldn't cost you more than 500 or so (mine cost me less than 100 from a friend parting a rusty craigslist XJ out), buy a running driving junker that got rear-ended or something. Engine hoist will cost under 200, some other tools and stuff, new fluids etc, you can install an engine in less than a day. I know because I pulled my entire drivetrain out, put a new tranny in the middle, and reinstalled it starting in the afternoon and finishing before 10pm working alone in a rainstorm, and after another 2-3 hours of hooking hoses and wires and driveshafts back up and filling the oil/coolant/tranny fluid, was driving it again.
 
Your oil pressure looked good in that video. Sounds like a wicked exhaust leak - like your exhaust isn't even bolted on.

Can you go through and answer the rest of the questions that we have all asked you?
 
I bet you can fix it for under 1000... craigslist motor shouldn't cost you more than 500 or so (mine cost me less than 100 from a friend parting a rusty craigslist XJ out), buy a running driving junker that got rear-ended or something. Engine hoist will cost under 200, some other tools and stuff, new fluids etc, you can install an engine in less than a day. I know because I pulled my entire drivetrain out, put a new tranny in the middle, and reinstalled it starting in the afternoon and finishing before 10pm working alone in a rainstorm, and after another 2-3 hours of hooking hoses and wires and driveshafts back up and filling the oil/coolant/tranny fluid, was driving it again.


there is a brand new one pretty much for 650 I know of. But it will cost alot to install it i am sure
 
Your oil pressure looked good in that video. Sounds like a wicked exhaust leak - like your exhaust isn't even bolted on.

Can you go through and answer the rest of the questions that we have all asked you?

Its cut after the cat for now, but you can hear the poor idle and the very loud whine under the hood. Bearing I fried?
 
there is a brand new one pretty much for 650 I know of. But it will cost alot to install it i am sure
not really if you do it yourself.

Tools and stuff you'll need:
* engine hoist (1 ton harbor freight one is fine) $180
* load leveller (harbor freight one is fine) $20-30
* e12 external torx bit $20 way more than you will have to spend
* regular metric and SAE socket sets
* assorted wrenches, ratchets, extensions, etc
* fuel / oil line quick disconnect set (get the aluminum ones autozone sells, not the plastic ones) $15
* 6 quarts of oil $25
* new filter because why the hell not? $8
* 4 quart jug of ATF because you're probably gonna spill some, $20
* a couple gallons of coolant 50/50 premix in case you spill some or decide it's time for a flush anyways $20
* new manifold gasket $8
* new exhaust donut $5
* new engine mounts because this is the best time to change em out $30
* some fuel injection hose clamps $5
* paint marker so you can mark the injector numbers on the wiring harness connectors to avoid reassembly confusion $5
* air filter because why not? $10
* zipties, random bolts and nuts, assorted crap just budget $50 "just in case"

unbolt the P/S pump and set it off to the side instead of removing the lines, it's easier. I come up with a grand total of $431 and a case of beer to get it done in a driveway in one day, assuming you have only 2 thumbs (instead of 10, hell I probably have about 6 thumbs and I still managed it) and when you are done you will have spare parts galore, an engine hoist, some extra tools, and a much better grasp of how your vehicle goes together.
 
not really if you do it yourself.

Tools and stuff you'll need:
* engine hoist (1 ton harbor freight one is fine) $180
* load leveller (harbor freight one is fine) $20-30
* e12 external torx bit $20 way more than you will have to spend
* regular metric and SAE socket sets
* assorted wrenches, ratchets, extensions, etc
* fuel / oil line quick disconnect set (get the aluminum ones autozone sells, not the plastic ones) $15
* 6 quarts of oil $25
* new filter because why the hell not? $8
* 4 quart jug of ATF because you're probably gonna spill some, $20
* a couple gallons of coolant 50/50 premix in case you spill some or decide it's time for a flush anyways $20
* new manifold gasket $8
* new exhaust donut $5
* new engine mounts because this is the best time to change em out $30
* some fuel injection hose clamps $5
* paint marker so you can mark the injector numbers on the wiring harness connectors to avoid reassembly confusion $5
* air filter because why not? $10
* zipties, random bolts and nuts, assorted crap just budget $50 "just in case"

unbolt the P/S pump and set it off to the side instead of removing the lines, it's easier. I come up with a grand total of $431 and a case of beer to get it done in a driveway in one day, assuming you have only 2 thumbs (instead of 10, hell I probably have about 6 thumbs and I still managed it) and when you are done you will have spare parts galore, an engine hoist, some extra tools, and a much better grasp of how your vehicle goes together.

I realy would like to consider this but I dont have a garage and it pretty cold here. I am 18 going to school and working 65 hours a week so its a pain. I would rather someone else do it. The shop told me 1100 for a new head if thats the case, so I would hate to know the price of installing a motor
 
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