Weird Electrical Issue

Started my 95 Country (4.0, AT) this morning and turned on the heater but the blower didn't come on. Then I realize the stereo isn't working nor is anything else related to the dash including the turn signals and power windows. Headlights, high beams, hazards and all interior/dash lights all work fine. Any ideas?

Sounds like the switched circuits are dead and the unswitched circuits are fine--see if the ignition switch is FUBAR.

joe_peters said:

Sounds like the switched circuits are dead and the unswitched circuits are fine--see if the ignition switch is FUBAR.

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So even though it turns over normally, the ignition switch could still cause these problems?

Yes it can, I just had the same issues and changing the ignition switch fixed it.

spikeypuck said:

Yes it can, I just had the same issues and changing the ignition switch fixed it.

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Noted. Looks like Autozone has them for $35 or so. Pretty straight forward install?

Mine was on an 85 it sits on top of the steering column. On mine the switch for the hi beams uses the same bolts to hold them both down.
Joe has way more experience than me. But on mine with removing the lower dash i think it was about 20 minutes start to finish.

His 95 will have the new style ignition switch that is right behind the key cylinder instead of the remote rod/column arrangement of the GM style.

Fuses, etc. OK?

Do you have tilt? Could be in the wiring. JIM.

Checking all my fuses this morning. If all is well I will be making a trip to Autozone for the starter switch. Luckily I found this video, seems like an easy replacement:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reonxApWkVU

Just went to check the fuses and everything worked fine. I guess I'll buy a switch anyhow and keep it on stand by. I have over 200,xxx miles so I'm not objective to replacing anything. I'll also play with the tilt and check for a short next time I'm out there, thanks for the suggestion ILLXJ.

On a 95 this is a little fun, make sure you have a tamperproof T20 size (iirc, may be T15, get the whole tamperproof set with a hex socket driver at sears for 20 bucks) torx driver before you start. Also a long thin torx driver of the same size for removing the steering column shell, there are 3 screws on the bottom and 2 very easily broken tabs holding the top and bottom halves together on the back edge.

The worst part is getting the new ignition switch to line up with all the mechanisms inside the column, you may have to wiggle it into place while swinging the steering wheel back and forth a few inches slowly. I was able to do the whole job including buying the screwdriver/bit set in about 30 minutes in the Sears parking lot a few weeks ago, I was carrying a spare switch + ignition cylinder + key assembly since I knew it was on its way out but had forgotten I needed the tamperproof bits.

kastein said:

On a 95 this is a little fun, make sure you have a tamperproof T20 size (iirc, may be T15, get the whole tamperproof set with a hex socket driver at sears for 20 bucks) torx driver before you start. Also a long thin torx driver of the same size for removing the steering column shell, there are 3 screws on the bottom and 2 very easily broken tabs holding the top and bottom halves together on the back edge.

The worst part is getting the new ignition switch to line up with all the mechanisms inside the column, you may have to wiggle it into place while swinging the steering wheel back and forth a few inches slowly. I was able to do the whole job including buying the screwdriver/bit set in about 30 minutes in the Sears parking lot a few weeks ago, I was carrying a spare switch + ignition cylinder + key assembly since I knew it was on its way out but had forgotten I needed the tamperproof bits.

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Thanks for the heads up! I was going through the previous owner's records and it looks like the ignition switch and harness was replaced around 5,000 miles ago. Another forum member suggested the interior fuse box ground may be loose so I guess I will try and find that. At any rate, I drove it to work today with no problems.

There's a decent chance a ground could be disconnected as well. I lost my HVAC blower, transmission control (ended up stuck in overdrive with the torque converter unlocked), and a bunch of other stuff due to a ground coming off the driver side inner fender right by the ECU. Doesn't sound like quite the same symptoms as yours though.

The previous owner likely bought a bargain basement ignition switch instead of a good quality one, or the install was faulty. Check the wiring harness leading to it, especially near the connectors, and make sure it is properly installed and not loose.

This particular design was only used for 2 years, 95 and 96. 94 down use a GM steering column (no airbag) and 97 up use a different column and housing style plus a new steering wheel, with an electric airbag instead of the mechanically actuated airbags in the 95/96 XJs. AFAIK the 95/96 design was a stopgap to comply with new federal regulations requiring driver airbags while the more major changes for the 97 model year could be completed.