crank shaft position sensor

Well I have a 2000 xj that needed a motor when I bought it. I put a salvage yard motor in it and when I started driving it it would stall out of the blue.I talked to a few guys from dealerships and they said to replace the cps. I was also told to buy oem but didn't have the money for it so I bought one from autozone and since the day I installed it the jeep has been kicking out multiple cylinder misfire and random cylinders.I thought maybe the cam drive had locked up and throwing the code but that was not the case. today I went and replaced the cps again and now it seems to be running worse now than what it was. Can anyone please give me there opinion please on weather oem is the way to go or just keep going back to autozone for the free replacement. I paid 80 from autozone and not sure what the dealer wants so if anyone can tell me that to it would be appriciated, thanks.

Autozone CPS sensors are generally crap, but it would seem odd that two are bad. Is the wiring to the CPS sensor in good shape? It's not unusual to have it get damaged when you forget to remove it before pulling the engine.

that wiring is on top of the trans I pretty sure but I guess maybe I should look at the wiring but it ran fine with the one that was in it when I got it it just would stall randomly when driving

De Nile = ghetto way of saying "That river in Egypt".

Denial = where you are at right now.

Go to the dealer.

Autozone should refund your money. Do that, then go to the dealer and get one.
If Autozone will not refund you, call the District Manager (his number is posted by the door). I bet ya get it refunded.

I have seen a couple of threads with multiple bad aftermarket sensors. I too buy these directly from the dealer.

If you are getting a code, post the exact code number here.

If you have a code for cam/crank sensor, you may want to test the camshaft position sensor just to be sure that you're not chasing your tail and getting tunnel vision on the crank sensor.

the codes that keep coming up are p0300, po301, p0302, p0303, p0304, p0305, and p0306 not it that order and not all at the same time just a few each time. the other night I borrow a chrysler DRB from a freind to sync the new cam sensor and drive and when I checked the stored codes a p1391 came up and read intermitten loss of cmp or ckp but was not sure what it meant. if any one has a clue please tell me.

lsc910 said:

when I checked the stored codes a p1391 came up and read intermitten loss of cmp or ckp but was not sure what it meant. if any one has a clue please tell me.

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That means the problem could be one of three things:

1. The crankshaft position sensor
2. The camshaft position sensor
3. Wiring and or connector problem for both of the above sensors

I would inspect wiring/connectors for both of these circuits first, then test both of the sensors to see if testing yields any clues. The camshaft position sensor CAN and should be tested here. It is responsible for fuel injector timing, as well as other things.

from what I see they look fine.

lsc910 said:

from what I see they look fine.

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"...they look fine."???

TEST them.

not to sound stupid but how do i go about testing them. I've never really been any good with electronics but I'll give it one hell of a try

lsc910 said:

not to sound stupid but how do i go about testing them. I've never really been any good with electronics but I'll give it one hell of a try

Click to expand...

Here is a link to a thread from Tim which gets into testing of the crank sensor.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1044073

As for the cam sensor, I don't have that info. at hand. Best bet is to get a service manual and of course, you'll need a multimeter and some ability to use it for testing both of these sensors.

The following information for testing the synch sensor is from the FSM 97:

"For this test, an analog (non-digital) voltmeter is needed. Do not remove the distributor connector from the distributor. Using small paper clips, insert them into the backside of the distributor wire harness connector to make contact with the terminals. Be sure that the connector is not damaged when inserting the paper clips. Attach voltmeter leads to these paper clips.

(1) Connect the positive (+) voltmeter lead into the sensor output wire. This is at done the distributor wire harness connector.
(2) Connect the negative (-) voltmeter lead into the ground wire.
(3) Set the voltmeter to the 15 Volt DC scale.
(4) Remove distributor cap from distributor (two
screws). Rotate (crank) the engine until the distributor rotor is approximately in the 11 o’clock position. The movable pulse ring should now be within the sensor pickup.
(5) Turn ignition key to ON position. Voltmeter
should read approximately 5.0 volts.
(6) If voltage is not present, check the voltmeter leads for a good connection.
(7) If voltage is still not present, check for voltage at the supply wire.
(8) If 5 volts is not present at supply wire, check
for voltage at PCM 32-way connector (cavity A-17). Leave the PCM connector connected for
this test.
(9) If voltage is still not present, perform vehicle
test using the DRB scan tool.
(10) If voltage is present at cavity A-17, but not at the supply wire:
(a) Check continuity between the supply wire.
This is checked between the distributor connector and cavity A-17 at the PCM. If continuity is not present, repair the harness as necessary.
(b) Check for continuity between the camshaft
position sensor output wire and cavity A-18 at the PCM. If continuity is not present, repair the harness as necessary.
(c) Check for continuity between the ground circuit wire at the distributor connector and ground. If continuity is not present, repair the harness as necessary.
(11) While observing the voltmeter, crank the
engine with ignition switch. The voltmeter needle should fluctuate between 0 and 5 volts while the engine is cranking. This verifies that the camshaft position sensor in the distributor is operating properly and a sync pulse signal is being generated. If sync pulse signal is not present, replacement of the camshaft position sensor is necessary."

that info would be nice if I had a 97 but the 00 is coil on plug no distributor. In its place is a oil pump dive with a cam sensor on top. thanks for trying

lsc910 said:

that info would be nice if I had a 97 but the 00 is coil on plug no distributor. In its place is a oil pump dive with a cam sensor on top. thanks for trying

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The synch sensor--the "thingy" in the distributor and in the oil pump drive is the same thing.

Thanks for not listening.

Out of here.

joe_peters said:

The synch sensor--the "thingy" in the distributor and in the oil pump drive is the same thing.

Thanks for not listening.

Out of here.

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OP: Take your Jeep to a repair shop. This diagnosis is definitely out of your league and you're expecting a silver bullet cure from some highly respected and knowledgeable Jeep technicians on this forum. .Your lack of initiative and blatant disrespect is not appreciated.

not trying to disrespect just asking for help, thats why I'm here to get the info from knowledgeable jeep techs. also Joe_peters I had the drb on it to sync the cam sensor and drive and it was fine.