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Opinions on RC double shear track bar?

-88fleXJ-

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbia ,TN
Ok, i just wanted to get yalls thoughts on this part.

my rig setup is 97 XJ 4 door, 4.5 RC lift with stock uca's and fixed lowers. and 33'' bighorns. a few months ago i got a bad case of death wobble. and in trying to fix it i have replaced,

both unit barings.
all the steering linkage with V8 zj stuff.
the TRE on the RC track bar. and, got a alinement 3 times.

so i'm hopeing a double shear track bar will help me fix it. i just dont know witch one to go with.

i cant really beat the price of the RC unit... or sould i go for the IRO one?

thanks for helping a noob out!
 
i like the one i got from rock krawler
 
My opinion is like the blind leading the blind but here it goes.

I have the RC track bar and it does great on my rig. My question is how is it being double sheer going to cure your death wobble. Sure it is a better and stronger setup but if you are solely buying it to cure DW I would make sure your track bar is the reason behind it. If it is the mounting hole on the axle being out of round of something of that nature a new track bar will do nothing. Just throwing that out there.
 
My RC trackbar was total crap. It wasn't the double sheer one, but I bent it like a wet noodle on 33s. I went with Iron Rock
 
Well, my unibody around the factory track bar bracket is totaly fubar'd and cracked to hell. so..... i figured while i have it off when i'm fixing and plating my "frame" i might as well put a new one back that will help the bumpsteer.
 
Track bar to help with bumpsteer? I think you should get someone to come over and turn the wheel back and forth while looking at the steering and suspension to find a loose joint. If you park it next to a curb and turn the wheel it will put more strain on it and help to find the problem. This is also a good way to put a trackbar on. Do all the wheel turning with key on engine off.
 
The RC bar is cheap but the price goes up when you buy the pitman arm, that is required to use the double sheer kit. So it's not really $130 or whatever it's advertised for. With the pitman arm, it comes out to around $180-ish. You are better off going with IRO or other.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK&Category_Code=XSP

Not to mention the bar is silly thin, and the threads on the bar are even worse. I got mine in the long arm kit and didn't want to risk running it because my friend had a BDS bar with the same sized threaded rod and it snapped and i'm sure you've seen the many photos of Rusty's t-bar broken at the threaded part. Too thin for my likings.

I swapped it out for an Iron Man 4x4 Fab HD trackbar that is bulletproof and SOLID 1.25" steel:

DSCF7005.jpg
 
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I am going through this right now, with only a slightly different setup. Please, share what you do to track this down.

I thought my TREs were loose, but the "steering test" didnt show it. I'm now thinking my problem is from a bad attachment to the bracket, so I ordered a new DS track bar bracket from Andy@IronMan to go with the track bar from him. If that doesn't work I start checking bolt and TRE/steering holes for wallowing out.

Question to anybody: If you find your holes wallowed out in the knuckle, can you drill, and run larger TREs? Or add a GoFerIt on the passenger side and flip it?

I did not want the RC track bar cos it is just a waste - too small. IronMan track bar is super beefy. YMMV.
 
You could ream the holes out to 1-ton taper (forget what degree it is) and run 1-ton steering - if there is enough meat on the knuckles to do this without risking a break.

You could do a GoFerIt TRE insert for sure.
 
just got the one from RC. i do not like it. the heim joint looks like a POS and the o.d. of the bar is only 1"
 
just got the one from RC. i do not like it. the heim joint looks like a POS and the o.d. of the bar is only 1"

Would you mind posting a pix of the heim? When I got my bar, they were using regular bushings on each end but it seems they upgraded it to a joint at one side (or both?). I'm curious what it looks like.
 
mine is a bushing on one end and a heim on the other. i would consider this hiem would not be an "upgrade"
 
There's not really a need for a heim since the trackbar just sees up and down movement not side to side. My IRO has a bushing on each end and works great...no heim needed.
 
I just spent the last 3 months going through this. After doing sye, trackbar, tres, shocks, steering stabilizer and a drop pitman I made no ZERO progress. Got ironmans adjustable upper control arms and have adjusted them out to 16 1/4" with his lowers already at 16 5/8 and I have so little shimmy that it's only noticeable to me. Andy recommends 17" on the lowers at 16 1/4" on the uppers when between 4.5 and 6 inches of lift. I'm going to play with the lowers this next weekend to see if that does it, although I think I've been improving my shimmy with the decreasing caster from where I was.
 
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