SYE clarification?

I've been trying to do my reading and homework on SYE's and even wanted a DIY version like GoJeep's, but there don't seem to be a lot of reasonable sources for the yokes much cheaper than a whole SYE kit. I found this AA SYE and wonder if it will work with a stock front driveshaft? Anyone use these? How is the DS length needed compared to front DS? What rear axle are you using it with? Anyway, I'd like to avoid the flange, and go with front DS as rear to allow for easy swaps on trail, etc. Looking for input.



P/N 50-7906. Image from AA website.
Very informative instructions too.


While we're on the subject, anyone have a spare 242 or 231 OP shaft for cheap after a SYE install? I'd like to have one to carry to a junkyard to see what will match. (Cannot post to "wanted"... not paid member or with many posts, maybe?) I want to try to find a "slip yoke" for CV that I can do a H&T "fixed yoke" similar to the one in Gojeep's thread cited above, as it would be the best solution, but I can't make myself pay $100+ for one.

What year is your rig? On the earlier models, you will also need a seal to bolt in place of the extension.

try searching google its a lot better than the search on here, just add , naxja
after your other search terms. Good luck!

The rig (will purchase in spring when I return from deployment) will be a late model. I'll probably build to 4-5 inch lift.

I should clarify that my main question is to whether the final length of everything makes it suitable for a stock front DS as rear. If not, I will continue to look until I find a solution that does. I am totally drawn to the concept of making my jeep as good as I can without spending more than I have to, and using as much salvage yard parts as I can.

I checked the 'net and found that the yoke they use here is a Atlas 32 spline. It's too bad no-one makes a replacement shaft that lets you use the front yoke.

I was wondering about this too. I really want to get a SYE very soon but my dilemma is that I have a D35 in the rear. I am concerned that if I get a SYE and after market drive shaft that when I decide to change out for a Chrysler 8.25 will it still fit?

To answer the question if a front shaft will work with a SYE.. If you have a AW4, 231, 8.25 combo. Yes. I run about 6" of lift, same set up. Seems to work just fine. Someone with an AX15 might say different though.

CaliXJ said:

To answer the question if a front shaft will work with a SYE.. If you have a AW4, 231, 8.25 combo. Yes. I run about 6" of lift, same set up. Seems to work just fine. Someone with an AX15 might say different though.

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That'd be good to know for general purposes, but I will have an AW4, and I'm looking to get a 8.25. 231 vs 242 is fine either way, but seems to be more solutions for a SYE for a 231.

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There are big differences between your SYE options for a 231 or a 242 T case. In addition the early models are different from the late models. It would be best to wait until you have purchased your XJ or you run the risk of information overload.

Once you have purchased your XJ, and have decided on a lift, and what rear differential you are going to run you choices and options will be simplier.

For example in my case, I have a 99 XJ and I selected a 4 inch lift. Then I decided to swap out my Dana 35 for a Dana 44. In addition, my XJ has a 242 T case. I wanted a yoke output on the SYE. In my opinion, my best option was the Tom Woods SYE with the machined replacement output shaft for my 242 as it fulfilled all of my needs/wants. Cheap no, but it is what I wanted.

Just my 2 cents worth............

That's good... and the kind of input I want, really. I know I will have a 99+ and will likely not get without an 8.25. There is a large enough market here to get this for a reasonable comparative price. As for 231/242, I think the 242 would be better for DD and occasional snow here, especially if the wife or kids might drive sometime, but don't know how much harder it'd be to get the SYE. I'd really prefer a H&T but would want a yoke.

I suppose it'd all go out the window if I ran across a really good deal on a 2000+ and at the same time some better axles to swap in, but would have to break even for the end product verses the cost/work, but isn't that always the case? Then, there's also the potential need for regear if I go with 32's or 33's.

Or hell, maybe I'll buy one that already has a moderate lift and SYE and save myself the time/money.... though I really want to build this myself.

The research and planning and homework has been tons of fun for a Jeep I don't even own yet, so I cannot wait to buy one and get it home. The day I buy it, I will go red here, too.

I don't want just a BB and 30's, but I will can't really afford more than 33's and 4-5" on a vehicle that is still my DD.

Again, thanks for the input, guys.

no SYE's for 242 unless you get a hack and tap..
the only time i know you can use a front ds in the rear is if you have a d44 rear..

I have a d44 and sye and i have 3 front ds i use as back ups for the rear..
at $14 at a jy.. cant go wrong

mark

jeepgeek2002 said:

no SYE's for 242 unless you get a hack and tap..

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I'm completely good with that... would really prefer to H&T so I don't even have to crack the case open.

jeepgeek2002 said:

the only time i know you can use a front ds in the rear is if you have a d44 rear..

Click to expand...

CaliXJ's post above suggest ther are combinations with the 8.25

CaliXJ said:

To answer the question if a front shaft will work with a SYE.. If you have a AW4, 231, 8.25 combo. Yes. I run about 6" of lift, same set up. Seems to work just fine. Someone with an AX15 might say different though.

Click to expand...

jeepgeek2002 said:

I have a d44 and sye and i have 3 front ds i use as back ups for the rear..
at $14 at a jy.. cant go wrong
mark

Click to expand...

This is kind of my goal, along with only keeping one spare, and being able to do a quick swap if I busted a rear and make it back on rear, hopefully, if I had to. Still, it suggests that the "ride back" would require as many driveshafts as the ride there.

All in all, I think this means at least with a 8.25 or D44 I can use the front DS, and with the right yoke I can get a 242 or 231 there, I'll just have to fill in the puzzle pieces as it goes. I expect that will always be the case in this, huh?

jeepgeek2002 said:

no SYE's for 242 unless you get a hack and tap.. mark

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Not true. The Tom Woods SYE is a re-machined 242 output shaft. The late model 242s (96+) have a longer output shaft than the early model 242s. If you are running an early 242 then the H&T is a good option.

I installed the Tom Woods (TW) kit in my 1999 242 case. In my opinion, the TW kit is the only way to go for the late model 242 case. The output shaft is shorter after TW modifies it.

FYI, the Tom Woods machined shaft is a stock shaft that is machined but it is not fair to call it a hack and tap IMHO. The TW shaft is shorter than a do it yourself hack and tap. He machines the splines further up the shaft than the shaft originally came with. That gives you a shorter output shaft which gives you a better angle to the rear end. In addition, the output bearing is closer to the output yoke for better support.



See the attached PIC for comparison

The install is not that difficult. I did it in my garage by myself and left the T case in place. The lift was on and I had plenty of room. Instructions are good but a good set of external snap ring pliers with the flat tips are a MUST. I was slow and did it in 3-4 hours. The most difficult part was installing the back case half holding the case, pump and pump suction tube in place without getting sealant all over myself. Good sealant is highly recommended. I used some stuff I got at Napa and no leaks.

Then when you are done you will have a yoke output instead of a flange output with the H&T.

The TW kits is more expensive because it is more parts and machine work. It also includes a TW CV drive shaft. There is also a $400 core charge on your original 242 output shaft. Once he checks your output shaft and it is not bent you will get a credit of $400 back from TW.

I have a 99 with a 242, AW4 and 8.25 rear. Iron Rock Offroad sells a yoke kit for a Hack and Tap. I was able to cut, drill, and tap my stock output shaft and install their yoke in a couple of hours. Never done one before and was pretty scared going into it but it was pretty easy. With this yoke you can use a stock front driveshaft on this combination. Now my driveshafts are fully interchangeable. The kit was pretty cheap, too and IRO is good people...

bwinter1946, That is good info. I wondered if companies were reusing the output shafts and remachining them or making their own. Someone should remachine them (or make one) to accept the front yokes, then it'd be just a shaft swap and a JY yoke. I understand that shorter is better, but I'm really trying to just get fixed yoke and CV (DC) shaft. If it is not a SYE kit that shortens, I'll still be better off than a YJ with a short-shaft. And $400.00 is a lot for a core. I can find whole TCs locally cheaper than that. I could by a TC, rebuild the rest while I waited on the SYE to come back and reinstall and still drive the XJ, and then re-sell the original TC. Still, it's good info, and I imagine it is because that's what it cost him in the end, and is damned good motivation to send in the core.

mflueras said:

I have a 99 with a 242, AW4 and 8.25 rear. Iron Rock Offroad sells a yoke kit for a Hack and Tap. I was able to cut, drill, and tap my stock output shaft and install their yoke in a couple of hours. Never done one before and was pretty scared going into it but it was pretty easy. With this yoke you can use a stock front driveshaft on this combination. Now my driveshafts are fully interchangeable. The kit was pretty cheap, too and IRO is good people...

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That's exactly what I was hoping would exist. I'm off to check their website.