Do I need a new gauge cluster? Help

Hey all, I just bought a 1998 Sport with approx. 170k miles. One owner, great shape except.... The Gauges stopped working last week. I've searched high and low but I couldnt find anyone with a gauge problem identical to mine. Here it is; Nothing works on the gauge cluster EXCEPT the turn signal indicator lights the gauge backlighting when the headlights are on and the highbeam indicator light, nothing else. Also the power door locks stopped working at the same time. I pulled the gauges and the wires and connections seem to be good. I visually checked all of the fuses and they are fine. Is it possible that since I'm obviously still getting power to the cluster (high beam and t signal lights) that the cluster itself just went bad? Could a bad cluster also be the cause of my door locks? And last but not least, does anyone know which fuse controls the gauge cluster? Thanks! I need my gauges to pass inspection.

Could be as simple as the connector on the back of the IP--there is a TSB on a replacement:

NO: 08-15-99
SUBJECT: Erratic, Intermittent Cluster Operation/Intermittent Air Bag Warning light.
DATE: May 21, 1999
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER 08-20-98 REV. A, DATED OCTOBER 2, 1998, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES AND NOTED IN THE BOUND TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN BOOK, PUBLICATION NUMBER 81-699-99003. THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION TO THE PROCEDURE.

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves installing a repair harness containing a revised instrument cluster connector.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicles may exhibit an intermittent illumination of the air bag warning light or an intermittent tachometer or speedometer drop out. An Airbag Electronic Control Module (AECM) fault code -"No Cluster CCD BUS " message will be present.

DIAGNOSIS:
Using the DRB III?, read and record all active and stored fault codes in the AECM. This condition is caused by minor oxidation of the BUS circuit terminals at the instrument cluster connector. Electrical terminals will show signs of oxidation, which will appear as darkened lines or marks on the cluster male terminals. These often appear as gray or black marks rather than the appearance of oxidation or corrosion usually associated with higher current carrying circuits. This condition will set a "NO CLUSTER CCD BUS" message. The fault code will usually be stored and not active. THIS TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN WILL NOT ADDRESS FUEL OR OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ISSUES. If this fault code is present, either active or stored perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty Part No. Description
1 05016261AA Cluster Connector Patch Harness
1 04856975 Electric Contact Cleaner
2 04778570 Heat Shrink Tubing


I doubt the IP issue is related to the door locks.

I dont think im suffering from the common "loose or faulty conection" tsb. It says in the description that the tsb does not cover issues with the fuel gauge and oil gauge not working. NONE of the gauges on my cluster work., just the backlighting, turnsignal and highbeam indicator.

I went to the salvage yard and bought a new used cluster today, swapped it in and it didnt work either. At least I know that the problem is not within the cluster. (Guess I'll be selling my extra gauge cluster soon)

Im lost as to what to try next. Any suggestions?

Does anyone know what fuses control the gauges and power door locks? Could these issues be related?

Thanks everyone!

I just went out and tested both gauges using the method I found on youtube, (Hold ODO reset, turn key to run, release odo) and I got nothing. No movement or lights on either of my gauge clusters. Maybe my cluster is not getting full power or its not grounded.

Ive read a few threads where people say that thier gauge problems were solved by fixing the ground. Does anyone know where the cluster get grounded?

Aaah...you will in time learn to TIJ (trust in Joe).....

I cleaned all of the connections at the rear of the IP harness and used dio grease and then reassembled. still nothing. Im not ruling out a faulty harness conecter however I would like to spend some more time trouble shooting before I start cutting and splicing.

Just chiding a bit for rushing out for a replacement panel.....

Joe said he doubted that the locks and IP were related. I don't have a '98 fuse diagram but happened onto a '97 (don't know if '98 is the same): Driver's side power lock - #18 10a, pass side #15 25a. Not sure about the IP fuse. You could do a preliminary check using these assuming no one else chimes in.

To start on the panel, I would take my meter and check the plug with the panel out. Without a diagram, to start I would look for a ground (0 voltage) and a terminal with full battery voltage. There may be more than one terminal with these readings. If the quick check is okay, it will not be difficult to determine the ground terminal and should be fairly easy to follow the (+) trace back from the voltmeter. If all of this fails, get back for Plan B.

You have already put the dielectric grease in the plug; for future reference, I wouldn't use the grease until I was sure everything is working. The grease doesn't promote electrical contact and just makes a mess until everything is sorted out. That's just me, others disagree with this approach.

Thanks for the help guys! I just had to google "chiding" but I get it now. HaHa I knew it was a long shot but I pass the junk yard on the way home from work and they just happened to have a freshly junked 98 classic. Oh well, I can always re-sell it.

I just came in from spending some more time looking through the jeep and I'm happy to report that I fixed the power door locks! The passenger side wiring harness was unplugged from the door controls.:sure:

So, one problem fixed, one to go. I'll have to pull out my multimeter tomorrow and take some readings at the rear of the gauge cluster. I suck at using a multimeter so hopefully ill be able to figure it out. Tracing the wires is going to be difficult as the almost immediatly join together with a main wiring harness and then drop behind the dash.

Ive read that there are two main "dash grounds". Anybody have any idea where these are before I rip the entire dash out?

Thanks again!

The good news is you can probably sell the panel for a profit on eBay or .

Don't rip the dash out yet because you don't know if the ground is your problem.

Clip the negative lead of your meter to a good ground. If unsure, run some kind of wire into the engine compartment for a ground. If unsure about the ground connection, set the meter to DC volts (something in around the 20+ range if it doesn't have auto-ranging). and confirm by touching the + probe to the battery positive terminal, looking for ~12+ volts.

Now touch the + probe to each terminal in the IP plug after turning on the ignition. Note each terminal with 0 volts. Set the meter mode to ohms and check only those terminal(s) for 0 ohms. Pull on the plug and move it around while you do this. If you find one or more terminals with 0 ohms, assume for now that you have a good ground and look for full battery (+) voltage (~12+v) at the other terminals.

Since you have tried the new panel with no luck, it seems certain that you are missing one of these two components at the plug but let us know your results. If the problem turns out to be a bad ground, I would just run a new ground wire and splice it in before touching the dash!

Try redoing your battery connections also. I had this problem on my 98. Gauges would only work when they wanted too. Redid the connections and problem solved.

I'm out in the jeep testing with a meter right now. So far it appears I have good grounds but I'm only getting a full 12 volts of power to 1 pin terminal. Hmmm

Ok so here's the results. Each harness has 10 terminals or pins. The left harness is showing 8 terminals with 0 volts. Of those 8 terminals with 0 volts, 3 also show 0 ohms. The right harness shows 4 terminals with 0 volts. Of those 4 terminals with 0 volts, 2 also show 0 ohms.

So I'm going to assume that I have good grounds but now where do I start tracking down the lack of power?

Thanks guys. I'm in a bad position with this jeep. I bought it for my wife as a winter vehicle and if it takes me too long to straighten out the kinks she's going to loose faith and not trust the XJ