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Front End Creaking noise

T

true2blue92

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Las Vegas, NV
89 XJ Laredo. When I'm going slow backing out of a spot or making a U-turn the front end makes a loud creaking noise when the wheel is turned about 90%. It sounds like something is binding up. It comes to a point where it gets stuck and to get out I either have to turn my wheel almost straight or give it alot of gas and then it'll pop and the whole jeep will jump. I'm super confused as to what it could be. Any help would be appreciated. Also I got it to do it on my driveway and then put it in neutral and it still didn't move until I straighted out my wheel.
 
More info on the rig. What trany transfer case disco or non. Stock or modified. Have you done any work to it lately. Sounds like a suck disco maybe. It sounds like you mean it won't role forward or back. Could be a bad joint or unit bearing. Your gunna have to spend some time on your back.
 
Last edited:
Its 100% stock. I recently changed the rear driveshaft because it was cracked where the U-joint went into. I just bought the jeep so I don't know how long its been doing this. I'm going to pull the front driveshaft off and see the condition of it.
 
1989 Cherokee Laredo 4.0L 4x4. Everything is stock. It's not in 4x4 that I know of the shift lever is in 2 so unless it's stuck then no. How could I check? Another thing to is when I go to shift into 4 the light for full time 4 wheel drive doesn't come on.
 
ok seeing how you said the "full time 4 wheel drive light" doesnt come on im assuming you think you have a 242, are you sure this is the case have you looked at the t-case id tag....

since the light doesnt come on id get under there and check the t-case shift linkages to see if itis moving freely

as far as your binding and popping problem id say go for the shaft u-joints or the disco, although im not to familiar with the disco system
 
If the selector has a full time and part time 4 wheel drive position, it is almost certainly a 242 t-case. If it is a 242, it should not have a disconnect in the front axle. Making sure it is in 2wd and pulling the front drive shaft is a good idea to help isolate the problem. I have experienced a 242 that was very reluctant to disengage 4wd. Misunderstanding the use of Full-time and Part time 4wd is common on vehicles with the 242. Since you said you already had to replace a rear driveshaft due to a cracked yoke, it may be an indication that the previous owner drove the Jeep on the street in Part Time 4wd and caused some damage.
 
Well I went to pull the front driveshaft off this morning before work but I was unable to finish before I had to leave. I will update tomorrow. But I did notice that after removing the front end of the driveshaft when I went to remove the end near the t-case it wouldn't turn. Shouldn't it turn if its in 2wd?
 
Alright I did check while I was under there and yes I do have the 242 Transfer case. I couldn't wait till morning and just went ahead and got the front ds off right now. When I got it off I was able to shift into 4wd full time and the light did come on. It seemed like something was stuck. Now the sound and everything is gone. I think something got locked up and when i took the ds off it was able to free itself. So anything I need to know for the furture so this doesn't happen again? Anyone know why or how this happened?

Next, while I had the front driveshaft off I went through the different gears on the transfer case and when I put it into 4wd full time there was nothing, I could put it in park and it would still roll and if I had it in drive it wouldn't do anything just like if it was in neutral. What does this mean? It also did the same thing when I had the rear ds off a week ago but I didn't think about it cause I just though it gave most of its power to the rear.

I have another jeep for parts thats the same year same engine everything should I switch out the t-case? It seems like there might be something wrong with mine?
 
Normal........It shouldn't move in full time with the driveshaft out. Sounds to me like the original issue was it was stuck in part time, causing the bucking/binding. Don't start swapping parts for heaven's sake.
 
Ok thanks everyone. I'm gonna go ahead and put new u joints in before I put the DS back on and then I'll replace the front axle u joints as well. I just got the jeep and I really wanna make sure it's road worthy so I'm able to take it to the mountains in the winter. I've already put new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, changed the oil and filter, changed the rear diff fluid, and put on new front pads and rotors. Anything that I missed? Should I change the front diff fluid and t-case?
 
true2blue92 said:
Yeah I was gonna do the trans also but I've been reading some stuff that says not to as it may cause leaks? Should I or not?
Click to expand...

Do it, and quit listening to whoever told you that nonsense.

On the AW4 trans, you can remove the drain plug. Let it drain. Replace the crush washer on the plug and reinstall. Add about 4 quarts of trans fluid, following the directions on the dipstick, and you're good to go. If the fluid still isn't bright red aftera few days, do it again.
 
Drain the transfer case fluid, the two big plugs on the rear of t/case. The bottom plug is the drain, top is fill hole(duh).:confused1

Look at the old fluid for signs of metal. It takes Dextron III trans fluid (1 1/2 qts ).

Auto trans should have a drain plug. I would pull it and replace drained amount with new DextronIII and check the condition of old fluid.

That's how I change my tranny fluid, not the power flush method.

Doesn't remove all the old fluid, but every 15 or 20K is easy w/drain plug and not having to remove the pan.

It is an astute observation the guys have about the t/case being in p-time 4 causing the bucking and rear ds crack.

Usually I have to throttle the gas on and off to switch in and out of the p-time and full-time to get into 2wd.

It's best to go in and out of 4wd on a dirt road. That way the drivetrain won't bind up and allow quicker engagement.

Good luck and hopefully once you put it in 2wd, it will be able to switch back into 4wd.

It sounds like it should be fine, otherwise you would be hearing bad things when driving .:explosion
 
Alright man thanks, I appreciate it alot. I always do all my own work on my cars just new to the jeep and 4 wheel drive thing ha. Better safe than sorry right? Ha. I'm gonna go get the fluids tomorrow as well as swap out the headers since mine is cracked at the 6 cylinder.

When switching into 4wd your supposed to put it into neutral right?

I think what happened with the front DS getting stuck was I pulled off the rear DS then drove to make sure that was the vibrating that was occurring and even though I didn't drove far it was on asphalt in part time 4wd and it mustve locked up then.

Again thanks everyone for all the help! Cheers.
 
my2monkeys said:
Drain the transfer case fluid, the two big plugs on the rear of t/case. The bottom plug is the drain, top is fill hole(duh).:confused1
Click to expand...


Do make sure you can get the fill plug out first. It sucks to drain it and then find out you can't get the fill plug out. Auto tranny at least you fill through the dipstick.
 
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