Help- broken rear diff cover bolt

This is on a 99 jeep and can this be done without dropping the fule tank? I was thinking a right angle drill, but wasnt sure.

Easy Out works when the remains of the bolt or stud can still turn freely in the hole. If the bolt was stuck, rusted in place, or cross threaded, and then snapped off, it will still be stuck and you will break the Easy Out.

Sometimes you can weld a nut to the remains of the bolt and the heat of welding will help loosen the threads.

dumb question, but since it is at the very top, do you think it would leak if I bolted it all back together using right stuff rtv

pakkman said:

dumb question, but since it is at the very top, do you think it would leak if I bolted it all back together using right stuff rtv

Click to expand...

At this point, you've got nothing to lose! All the lube stays below the fill hole at rest, and just splashes around while driving. There's no pressure, though, so if it were me, I'd put the RTV on a little more generous and call it a day. If your D35 is like most of the others (and the two here), it'll be wanting to come out soon anyway!

I don't recall if the bolt hole is drilled and tapped all the way through the axle housing, but you can check easily. If it is, wire brush the back side, spray with PBLaster, tap housing with small hammer and wait a few minutes. The broken bolt might rotate right out with a punch around the edge. If enough of either end is sticking out enough to file a screwdriver slot in the end, I'd give that a try as it's worked for me in the past.

If you need room for access, raise the body on stands and let the axle droop.

Mike

Thanks for the responses, I decided to try heyhar's advice since the spyder gears are pitted and it wont be long before i pull it. So I layed on the right stuff RTF and bolted it back up and then took a few blasts up and down the freeway with no leaks! The jeep is stock and only stays on the street, so I just need it to hang in there a little longer. Thanks again!