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Stock Axle Gearing...

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NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lehi, Utah
So... I'm trying to figure out my gear ratio on my recently purchased (non-running) Cherokee... I did the "Spin the tire and count the driveshaft revolutions" method...

AND IT ONLY REVELVED 2 TIMES! :cry:

Am I doing this right?

Other possibly useful info - the tranny and tcase were both in neutral. (I also tested it in 2H with the same results)

Please help me NAXJA!
 
Well, if you share the BASICS--year, engine, and transmission, then we can tell you the stock gear ratio(s) it might have come with from the factory.
 
I've been looking for a 4 cyl set of axles.
4 cyl auto= 4.10
4 cyl man= 3.73
6 cyl auto= 3.55
6 cyl man= 3.07
 
My guess is that you lifted only one tire off the ground and spun it, or spun the tires with both in the air, and one of them spun the opposite direction you were spinning.

Due to the number of revs you got, it sounds like you did one of the above, which will yield incorrect numbers since the spider gears would have been turning during the tests, giving you a false number of rotations. Try with both wheels in the air rotating the driveshaft, then counting the number of times it takes it to turn for the wheels, which will most likely turn together now, to make 1 revolution.
 
BASICS - 1987 - Laredo (Too much chrome :mad:) - Factory Hitch - D30 F - D35 Rear - 6cyl Auto...

I tried holding one tire while spinning the other - Same results...

I also tried spinning the driveshaft instead of the tires with the same results as well... 2 revolutions on the driveshaft = 1 tire revolution...

This is frustrating :gonnablow
 
There is no way you have 2:1 gears, I'm not even sure they exist for d30s/35s or 8.25s.

My bet is that you have 3.55s or maybe 3.73s. With one wheel on the ground and the other lifted, 3.5 (approximately) rotations of the driveshaft should produce TWO rotations of the free wheel.

If you can't figure it out, pop the cover off and count teeth or check for a stamping on the ring gear edge. It's probably about time the diffs were serviced anyways.
 
The diffs and transmission were serviced less than 3k miles ago... I don't want to replace the fluid (I'm 16 and therefore every $ counts) so is there a stamp or tag somewhere on my axles that I can look at?

My cousin was telling me there was a "fuel economy package" that had 2.73s or something like that...

If you're supposed to revolve the drivehsaft until the tire revolves twice then that means 4 revolutions on my shaft would equal 2 tire revolutions... = 4.10s?

I'm mostly into rock crawling so the lower the better! :thumbup:
 
Are you sure you're not counting wrong or something? I bet the spider gears are biting you...

With both tires on the ground, take a piece of chalk and mark the tire and the ground.
Jack that side up a little bit (doesn't need to be more than 1/4")
Spin the driveshaft and count how many spins you need to make the chalk line go all the way around once and come back down.

That would be a higher gear, not a lower gear. Low # = low gear reduction. High # = high gear reduction.

If you had 2.73's then your estimate should come up closer to 3, not 2. Which would mean you're still doing it wrong...

I bet you've got 3.55's.
 
I'm almost positive I counted right... I'm at school right now or I'd go count it again.

My "lower the better comment" meant that I'd be a hell of a lot happier if I had 4.10s instead of 3.55s / 2.73s or whatever.

Idk if this would change anything but my front end is up on jackstands...
 
My "lower the better comment" meant that I'd be a hell of a lot happier if I had 4.10s instead of 3.55s / 2.73s or whatever.

Idk if this would change anything but my front end is up on jackstands...
My mistake about the lower the better. :thumbup:

If the front is on jackstands, still do the marking thing, put a breaker bar through one rim and wedge it against the ground to keep it from spinning while you count what the other one does.

edit: this might scratch your rim. If you have pretty rims, wrap it with tape or a rag or something.
 
So... You're saying I need to stop the front tires from rotating as well? When I did the test it was on the rear axle.

Also, where is a good jacking point to lift one rear tire? I've heard jacking up on the axle tube is bad :looney:
 
School's out in 3 minutes and I'll be home in less than 20... I'll try a few methods and see if I can get something other than 2:1 :doh:
 
Ok... I just went and tested it again, this time in 2H... If you DO go off of spinning the tire two times then I have 3.55s or 3.73s, the driveshaft took just over three and a half spins to spin the tire I had off the ground twice.

I just jacked from the shock mount and left the other tire on the ground.

I can live with 3.73s until I put on 33s... But 3.55s are a little too high for me :rolleyes:
 
What gear the transmission and transfer case are in won't change the outcome, all it does is make it easier or harder for you to turn the shaft.

And yeah... I'm on 33s with 3.55s right now. It's a dog, I haven't used overdrive in months, have to leave it in 3 or it can't get out of its own way. In low range it's a bit better but still leaves something to be desired.
 
You could save the gear oil and put it back in. Honestly pulling the cover and counting the ring and pinion gear teeth is the most accurate way.

Also If you are luck and your jeep hasnt been molested too much there will be a tag on the diff cover that tells you.

but with 4.0/AW4 my money is also on 3:55

When you go to re-gear, look into the ford 8.8, they can be had complete with 4:10 and discs for about 150. Add in another 50 for perches and welding and you have better gears, a better housing, and disc brakes for about the cost of a R&P kit for that D35.

Happy wheeling!
 
X2... my 8.8 build is running me about 350-400 dollars though, because I ended up buying all new brake hardware, an aftermarket diff cover, a new flange (didn't want to carry two kinds of spare driveshaft ujoints, so I figured the flange was a good idea), new e-brake cables, heavy duty u-bolts, bulletproof u-bolt plates, etc etc.

Whatever you do, do NOT put anything other than diff fluid and brakes into that d35. They are not worth it.
 
Yeah... A local "Pull and Save" has 1/2 off mondays and wednesdays, so I was planning on at least swapping out my rear axle.

What's the bolt pattern on the Ford 8.8 and is there a good front axle to do at the same time?

If I don't go that route I atleast want an XJ 44.
 
That's the awesome thing, 8.8s have the same lug pattern as XJ stock axles. Tiny bit narrower (5/8" iirc) WMS to WMS and require welding new perches on but otherwise pretty decent to swap.

If you can find the front axle out of a 95 (iirc) or newer XJ with a 4 cylinder engine + 5 speed manual transmission, or the front axle out of any XJ with a 4 cylinder engine, 5 speed manual transmission, and ABS brakes, it will have the same gears (4.10s) and will bolt right in, and will also have the larger u-joint axleshafts. Check the gears first though because they have been known to be different occasionally.

Oh, EDIT:
I've been looking for a 4 cyl set of axles.
4 cyl auto= 4.10
4 cyl man= 3.73
6 cyl auto= 3.55
6 cyl man= 3.07

Not correct.
4 cyl auto = 4.56s usually (at least in the 4cyl/AW4 combo available on RENIX years. VERY rare.)
4 cyl 4 speed manual = 3.55s
4 cyl 5 speed manual = 4.10s
6 cyl auto = 3.55s, sometimes 3.73s or 4.10s depending on strange option packages and/or tow packages and/or southwestern dealers
6 cyl manual = 3.07s

I believe there were 4.30s on some 4cyl or V6 (only available 84-86 and a truly terrible engine) models with the gas saver package.
 
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Sweet... Hopefully luck is on my side and I can get these axles from Pull and Save.

They have a pricing sheet and they charge just under 200 for a complete axle... So I can get both for around 200 on a 1/2 off day. Add in perches and other various things and I can probably get this done for under 300.

But... I think I have a few things above an axle swap on the list of crap to get... In the meantime I can do some research and figure out EVERYTHING I need for the swap.
 
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