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I don't know too much about axles and lockers and wanted to learn more so any info that you can give is appreciated.From what I hear and read,Dana 44 is pretty common with ARB lockers.Is that fair to say?One of the main reasons I am on here is to learn so thanks in advance.:cheers:
D35's are a weak rear axle that came in most wranglers and many cherokees. They are weak by design. The D44 is a good axle with good aftermarket support. ARB's are a common choice for a locker but there are a few other choices. The ARB is very strong but very expensive and it requires much more effort to install than a Detroit locker or a lunchbox locker. ARB's are also known for issues related to the air system failing (often due to improper installation) and preventing the locker from engaging. RobertK can break down the options for a D44 for you.
I know I have the d30 up front anf the 8.25 in the rear.I am, planning on doing the suspension the first week of Dec anmd am kinda thinking since it will all be out why not price dana 44's and maybe some lockers.Thant's why I am tyrieng to learn.So then a Detroit might be the way to go?
Before you go and do a ton of research on axles you need to figure out what the long term plan is for tire size AND the type of wheelin you want to do. You tell us what wheelin style/tire size are in the plans and we can give you some accurate axle and locker/limited slip info for ya. If you are thinking 3" lift on 31's or a 4" lift on 32's then your 8.25 should be fine. If your thinking 33's then you need to make sure you have a 29 spline 8.25" and even that might need some chromo shafts (depending on type of wheelin). If your thinking 35's then the 8.25 needs to go and be substited with a dana 44 or a Ford 8.8. If your thinking CRAZY trail rig with 37's+ then your now looking at dana 60's or GM 14 bolt axles.
Yes there is a lot of choices and a ton of opinons but what really counts is having what you need and in a budget you can live with. Hell on my yj I ran front and rear detroits on a 30 and 35 non clip setup and a 4:1 and didn't break shafts with 35's but I'm not saying you should do that. Right now I'm locked in front and welded in rear with a 35 non c clip On 31's but I don't expect it to be like a 44. A 35 can't be a 44 a 8.25 can't be a 8.8 and a 60 is untouchable by all of those but it isn't necessary to spend that type of money if you don't need it.
27 Spline 8.25 - Significantly stronger than the Dana 35, but still considered "weak" to some. The shafts neck down at the end.
29 Spline 8.25 - Introduced some time in 1996. Much stronger than both above axles. Commonly handle 35" tires with aftermarket shafts. Axle shafts do not neck down.
Dana 44 - Very rare, very strong.
Front:
Dana 30 Vaccuum Disco
Dana 30 non-disco
I don't know enough about the differences to comment on this. I dont wanna spread false info.
There's no significant difference in the strength of the housing between Disco/ non disco, however, the disco axle has much weaker 2 piece axleshaft on the right side. The disco housing can be converted to a one piece axleshaft with the addition of the correct seal on the inside of the axle tube. That being said, non disco axles are ubiquitous and fairly cheap.
There's no significant difference in the strength of the housing between Disco/ non disco, however, the disco axle has much weaker 2 piece axleshaft on the right side. The disco housing can be converted to a one piece axleshaft with the addition of the correct seal on the inside of the axle tube. That being said, non disco axles are ubiquitous and fairly cheap.
this is the truth... I folded mine up like a wet noodle then tore it off:
(hint: look for the only shiny metal on the axle housing :gee
If you get a non disco d30, fully weld the bracket and box in the open side with 1/8 or 3/16 plate. Costs like 25 bucks even if you get a precut plate and maybe half an hour of work if the axle is out of the vehicle or 1 hour if it's under it.
