• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Control arms?

cheapcherokee93

<----boat-manche
Location
Guadalahabra, CA
sooooo i've got a 3" lift w/rancho LCAs. they are made of square tubing so they are big and bulky and hit the shock mount before i can even get full droop. i've already grinded off some of the mount to clear the LCAs, but i also notice this its also hitting the actual LCA mount and i dont think i want to grind that down since it holds and supports the LCA. so im looking into different control arms that wont limit my droop. i've done some research and found that i should get some that are bent for more clearence. what i want to know is if any brand control arms are better than anothers? i know multiple brands that make them, so are any brands going to better than others? im cheap, so i'd be willing to buy used. and if bought new id like to just get adjustable with bushings (no johnny joints or anything). so should i just buy the cheapest i can find or go with a particular brand?

here's some brands i have found:
http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Jeep_XJ...s/XJ_FLCA.html.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFX
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...gory_Code=ARMS

they all seem to be in the same general price range.
 
I have run Rustys with rubber bushings (second set), Rustys with rubber/knock off Johnny joints (current set) and Tera Flex with rubber bushings on both end (my first set).

Rustys use to have some serious problems with welding quality control and my second set kept ripping apart at all the wrong times. They have that fixed now and the Rubber/Joint set that I run know are real nice. I do have to adjust the joints a couple times a year (I DD a lot too).

I really liked my Tera Flex arms. Rubber joints, no lock nut on acme threads (rotate and flex well) and adjustable. The threads eventually wore out after about 50Kmi and many dozens of off road trips. All three sets acted as rock sliders and were no worse for the wear.

If your on a budget (I am going to get flamed for this, I just know it) get the Rustys. Are you sure you dont want the joints on one end, the will flex a lot better. I am not crazy about a lock nut on the rubber/rubber joints because it will limit flex even though you wont wear out the acme screw. Rustys fixed their QC problem and have always provided great customer service to me. If you have a little more coin go with Tera Flex (are they still in business?) they never let me down.

I would worry a bit about the iron man control arms because they use a solid bar. This sucks heat out of the weld and since the bushing sleeve is thin its hard to get good penetration on the solid bar but not burn through the sleeve. Welder may also bias the weld to the arm side to control the heat distribution and then NOT get good penetration on sleeve. Feast or famine. This is what Rusty's got wrong several years ago. They thickened up the sleeve and went to a computer controlled welding process which solved the problem.

Iron Rock looks a lot like the Rusty's, they probably source the same bushings and foreign made (India?) forged threaded bushing end.

John
 
Iron Man puts out some really beefy and strong parts. I wouldn't worry about his falling apart in your lifetime.
 
I have not heard anything bad about ironman4x4fab products. Have lifetime warranty, and the guy has great CS skills.
 
They don't have to be bent. I offset the bushings wen I built my LCAs.

xjlcas009ik4.jpg
 
Ironmans bushings are poly 88 durometer with a tapered bushing sleeve.the bushings are made by energy suspension and he pulse mig welds everything..
 
Back
Top