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extended short vs radius arms

B

blackd-out-chev

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Arizona
So the time has come...I am finally building my 88 xj 2 door. It has the 4.0 and aw4/np231. The plan is to do box4rox/dana300 and hp44/9". So I. Have the frame all plated up. I have my axles. I have the dana 300. Now my holdup is what I want for suspension. I am running about 8" of lift and will probably be upgrading the 35s to 37s or 38s.
I have read and read and read and read some more on several sites... I'm looking for some good feedback on extended short arms from the stock locations(will upgrade the mounts). Or to make a long arm y style or radius arm. What are your thoughts on the 2 choices?
 
Did you read on this site? Down on the bottom where it says similar threads will definitely get you started. Everyone is pretty much going to say everything that has already been said for this generalized question.
 
Yes I have researched. Yes I have read this site...ok to make my question less gereralized...has anyone had both? Trying to get some more positives or negatives...long arm=having more crap to hang up/hit on, but may protect dshaft. Changing pinion angle. Extended arms will basically garner the same flex as long arms. Just trying to decide between the 2. And the reasoning behind your decision...
 
Short arms will not have the same flex, especially at your height, without drop brackets. By the time you factor in new arms plus drop brackets, might as well go long arm.
 
blackd-out-chev said:
Yes I have researched. Yes I have read this site...ok to make my question less gereralized...has anyone had both? Trying to get some more positives or negatives...long arm=having more crap to hang up/hit on, but may protect dshaft. Changing pinion angle. Extended arms will basically garner the same flex as long arms. Just trying to decide between the 2. And the reasoning behind your decision...
Click to expand...


You would want to go drop brackets if you dont go long arm. You just have to. In which case you will have crap hanging down just as low...

Your pinion angle wont change nearly as much with a TRUE 4 or 3 link as it would with radius arms.

And yes, I keep on hearing how you can achieve as much flex with short arms. But the ride WILL be better with long arms and you wont go through bushings as much unlike with the stock geometry.
 
8 inches on short arms? no thanks.

Long arms or do a wheelbase stretch, or drop brackets.
 
I'm on. Shortarms now...eek...ride sucks...wheels good. Just no downtravel. Been wheeling it for almost 2 years this way...haven't had time/money/space to build it right. Also has dana 30/35 and I've had up to 36s on it and no broken bits aside from ujoints. Done everytbhing from river to mud to rocks to bajaing. Lol. Now we are getting the info I'm looking for though...better ride etc. Wasn't sure if I did extended uca and lca if I would need db or not. Was thinking of pushing the axle forward 2.5". But I guess thinking about it...still leaves pretty shitty angles...
 
blackd-out-chev said:
...long arm=having more crap to hang up/hit on, but may protect dshaft. Changing pinion angle.
Click to expand...
How do you figure?
Build it right and you won't have either of those issues. Get the right separation, use appropriate sized joints and tube (ie, no 3/4" or 7/8" rod ends on LCAs), good strong mounts, some common sense and you'll be all set.
 
blackd-out-chev said:
long arm=having more crap to hang up/hit on, but may protect dshaft. Changing pinion angle.
Click to expand...
X2 my crossmember/arms are mounted higher than stock.Pinion/castor angles don't mean much when wheeling and on the road the change in extremely minimal!
 
That's all stuff I was wanting to know...exactly why I posted this...do I make y on both sides? Or just need the upper on the driver side? I'm thinkn both sides...
 
2 uppers for a DD,1 upper for a TR,1 fixed upper and 1 wristed upper for both!!
Personally,I've got over 10yrs on mine and haven't torn a mount or even replaced the bushings(although they are old and need it now).
 
Last edited:
Its a must if your doing a radius arm set-up!
 
have fun with 8" and short arms...jussayin
 
Holy cow...I already have 8" with shortarms...for the last 2 years...it sucks...but it is what it is...I've also had stock dana 30/35 under it for that long and that sucks too...but again...it is what it is. I'm now in a position to start making changes. Thanks for the helpful input
 
36s on a d35/d30 and you're upgrading to 37s or 38s?

I hope you never even look at the skinny pedal... nevermind touching it.

I know people who have killed those axles with 32s doing a u-turn on a gravel road, another guy who blew up the spiders in one on p225s on pavement, and another who blew one up with p215s.

I'd put better axles under it and 5-6" longarm if you're going that way.
 
Holy cow...I am upgrading to a 44/9. And I have actually ran the piss outta this thing the way it is for 2 years...no its not a comfy ride. Yes I get tired of my lca smacking the shock mount every little bump. But the axles...down talk em all ya want...I'm suprised with the little turds. Haven't bent broken or mangled em except the right outer axle ujoint and a bunch of pinion yokes due to axle wrap...its been jumped, mudded, rocked, yanked buddies out, all kinds of crap. Given they are both open diff with no vaccum to the front axle. But somehow I can get both fronts and both rears to spin sometimes...worked ok just time to upgrade and loose the worries.
 
Supermanxj said:
So at that amount of lift and short arms... does it feel like you got hit by a train in the sack everytime you hit a pothole?
Click to expand...

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA :roll:
 
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