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Making some shims possibly

jonathanlo

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ontario, OR
Just got a 3.5" lift and the pinion angle is all effed up. Gotta drop the transfer case about an inch and I need shims. Unfortunately, I live in alaska so everything takes a XXXX-ton longer or more expensive to ship up here (shims-$32; Fedex 2day air~$50). Not paying $80 for a set of shims. I'm moving down to Oregon in about 4 days and I need shims so I can get everything ready. I was thinking about using my old leaf springs to make some shims out of. What do you guys think? Good idea or bad?

Also, how much clearance should i have under the pinion when the driveline is disconnected (you know, to make sure i don't brake some shit)?

Any help would be wonderful.
 
If you really wanted to, you could probably use your old leaf springs. The curve of them might cause gaps and they may not be thick enough. Probably be pretty cheap to get some chunks of metal somewhere, then just cut/drill them to what you need.
 
Do you have a hardware store? I have used thick washers before for a TC drop.

If you are talking about pinion shim, you would need actual shims as they are for different degree of angle.
 
I used some flat-bar that I drilled holes into for the tc drop. My buddy found a set of 2* shims and they aren't steep enough. I test drove it (figured while it was on the ground, the driveline wouldn't bind up--just to go to the hardware store and whatnot) and heard a clunk, so I took it back home. Just ordered an extended slip yoke and a set of 6* shims. I'd do a SYE/CV, but I'm kinda cash strapped. I hope the rest of my lift will make it through my long ass drive to Oregon. It'd be pretty shitty to break something in Canada. Do you think that the extended slip yoke/shims will work? I wish I would have known about these issues before I bought this kit.
 
I'm not sure why you're having so much trouble. Maybe check your u-joints. I have a 4.5" lift and do not experience any vibes with just shims. Not sure, but I think it's a 6*. I didn't even do a TC drop. So in your case, I'd say a TC drop and shims should be plenty.

Unless it has to do with what TC you have. My last XJ had a different TC (with full-time. Always forget which TC is which.) and it had a SYE with slightly less lift. I purchased it that way, so I'm not sure it was there for strength, to solve vibe issues or both. That one was also an 87, my current is a 96.
 
I have a 94, and the transfer case is a NP231. They guy at RE told me that a stock slip yoke from the same era YJ would solve my problem. Hopefully it does. and RE happened to be out of the extended slip yokes. I have to find a local dealer that will have one. Six States in Soldotna has some, but I can't really drive there. Do any of you know what the stock length of the XJ slip yoke is? I can't find it anywhere and it's freezing balls outside. The YJ slip yoke is 1.176X26/27 SPLX5.75" .... I hope it works.
 
The YJ yoke is only like 3/8" longer,its real advantage is that the yoke ears are clearanced more for "angle" issues(not length).What year is your rig?Consider doing it properly with a HD SYE kit and you wont be disappointed.Also do some searching on the subject,you'll find ALOT!
 
I'd do it with a SYE kit, but I'm in a time crunch right now. I talked to a somewhat local suspension shop and they said that any more than a 4* shim wouldn't be safe. As soon as I get to Oregon, I'll get the SYE kit. I just need to get there. I have another parts jeep and I was curious if I could grind down the part of the ears that make more clearance. I'm not sure how much that would compromise the integrity of the yoke. Thanks for all the help. Im going to drive to Soldotna and see if Six States can help me.
 
First,find another 4x4 shop!You need to fix any angle issues first,at 3+" lift you really shouldn't have a driveshaft length problem.
 
Trying to help out here: You've got a 94 with 3.5" of lift and a TCase drop (of unknown size)...

In addition to the vibes, you heard a "clunk" = I'd be seriously looking for U-Joint issues in the rear drive shaft. You are making them work at different angles than they have for the last decade or so...

Grinding out the ear on the existing yoke will do nothing to help.
 
The new slip yoke worked. Now I have to fix my toe issue. My tie rod is too old (aka rusted together) for me to do it since I'm lacking in the tool department, so I'm going to take it into the shop tomorrow. let's just hope it makes the 120 mile drive without blowing out my tire.
 
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