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Ball joint question ASAP

COXJ

NAXJA Member #989
ok ball joints question
1 are they sposda spin when there is no presure on them?
2 is the lower one suposda wabble?
3 what would it cost to get new ones pushed in if i got new ones?
THanks all

WIll
 
The post will spin, that what your steering piviots on. It should not wobble, that is bad. and I paid 55 for uppers 60 for lowers.(CND $ of coarse) And then rented a press from a tool rental place for $20.
the quote I got on parts and labour from one shop was around 900CND
hope that helps a bit
(easy job just need the right tools to make it easy)
 
ya the upper is fine but the lower kinda acts like a tie rod end. and if this still isnt normal were can i find how to get the old one out and the new one in? thanks

WIll
 
Its in the FSM if you don't have one I could e-mail you those pages if that helps, but basicaly what you have to do is.....
-take off the axle nut/cotter pin/retainer using a 36mm socket
-take off the wheel
-take off the break caliper/rotor
-remove the 3 12 point bots that hold the hub on (they either 12 pt 13mm or 12 pt 10mm I can't remember
-pull the hub off ( a gear puller helps huge here)
-drain the front diff/suck flid out
-pull out the axle shaft (no c clip on the front so you don't have to remove the diff cover)
-diconnect the tie rod from the knuckle
-remove the abs sensor wire from the knuckle (if ya have one (be careful the bolt head can easy snap off mine did but I don't have ABS anymore))
-remove top and bottom cotter pin/nuts from the ball joint studs (leave the nut on there on the last couple threads so when it separates it dosen't hit the ground)
-separate the knuckle (ball joint splitter helps here)
-put the press on the ball joint (looks like a giant C-clamp with cups on it)
-press out old top one
-press out old bottom one
-press in new bottom one
-press in new top one
-reinstall all the above

it took me about 2hrs a side. I did all four cause I didn't want to worry about them or have to do it again when the next one went
you could use a heavy duty C-clamp and some different sized pipe of sockets to do the pressing but its much easier to rent the press

HTH Fletch
hope I didn't miss any steps
 
Or you can just buy the whole front end set like I did for 150 bucks then you dont have to rent single tools.
 
do you think i may have busted it when i beat the knuckle off? or did it just ware out? and how are you suposda keep the lower greesed? there is no fitting.?

WIll
 
Lowers are usually not greasable, new one probably will be though. Also on the hub, I usually just leave the hub on the axle and take the whole assembly off.
Dustin
 
the unit berring comes right off if ya have a wheel puller. and im gonna run to get the stuff to do all this tomaro. thanks guys

WIll
 
to each his own I guess
on the lowers the grease nipple supplied got in the way on the U joint so i greased it and then capped it off with the supplied cap. I'll grease it when I change the diff fluid I guess by pulling the axles and putting on a grease point.
 
Sometimes the hubs are not a big deal, at least if you have done them before. The first time I did mine, I broke a puller on it. I usually don't find it neccessary to separate it for something like balljoints.
Dustin
 
I too have brocken a puller on the hubs when i pulled them to do the diff seals. com'e to think of it i never thought of leaving the huds on the axle. If I ever have to do it again I'll keep that in mind since they came off really easy the second time around.
 
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