Alignment?

I am about to install the Iron Rock Offroad Double shear adjustable track bar kit (Beefy!) and I'm wondering if I am going to need an alignment afterwards.

Since I've installed my 3" BDS kit the axle's been off center about an inch to the right. Dog legged.
With the BDS kit there is a relocation bracket for the axle side that moves the stock TB about 3/4".

The IRO kit will center the axle perfectly but it also drops the new track bar on the frame side about 3/4", stock position on the axle; kind of the reverse of the BDS setup really.

So, I'm "reversing" the angles on the track bar vs drag link kind of, and moving the axle over about 3/4",

Besides re-centering the steering wheel via DL adjustment sleeve, will I need an alignment???
I just got new tires and don't want to start them out right.
All other steering components are fine. One of the TRE's boots crapped out but I keep it greased till I get a ZJ one.

Others may say "just do the alignment in your driveway with a piece if string and a tape measure". Fine.

I, personally, would take it in to a reputable front end place, not Les Schwab, and get it aligned by a pro with the rack and pivots and get it down to a c-hair of perfect.

The only problem with that is most shops are not prepared to handle the requirements of a "not-stock" vehicle.

ParadiseXJ said:

a reputable front end place, not Les Schwab, and get it aligned by a pro with the rack and pivots and get it down to a c-hair of perfect.

Click to expand...

OK then. A reputable 4x4 shop.

I forgot to mention it's already aligned. It's been a while but it tracks straight enough. Nice even tire wear.

SO just to clarify, you are sying that an alignment WILL be necessary?
If so could you please explain why? I'm always down to learn!

Technically you are moving the axle back under the vehicle so the draglink will need to get longer/shorter to compensate. Since it the draglink ends are moving in relation to each other then angle of the draglink will also change. Since the tierod is connected to the draglink the toe will change slightly. So you should get an alignment. It should be pretty close though, so I would just do it at home.

Thanks, I'll do a search on home alignments. Dodn't think about the length of teh DL changing toe. Wouldn't be a prob I guess if I had crossover though eh?

Easy way to check/adjust toe..
Use a tape measure and measure the front of the tires (sidewall not on letters),and check the rear. To be in spec, front of tires should be 3/16 to 1/4 inch in from the rear.

To adjust. Lift vehicle so the tires are off the ground. loosen nuts/bolts and adjust tie rod whichever way you need to go. Lower vehicle, check again. Etc. When it is within range, tighten the TRE's up.

sweet. Thanks Johnnie:clap:

Johnnie Walker said:

Easy way to check/adjust toe..
Use a tape measure and measure the front of the tires (sidewall not on letters),and check the rear. To be in spec, front of tires should be 3/16 to 1/4 inch in from the rear.

Click to expand...

That seems like a lot, but then again trying to specify toe-in in inches doesn't make much sense anyway. The factory spec is something like 0 - 0.125 degrees. I've always gone for 0* toe-in which is really easy to setup in the driveway.

I just looked up for a 97 (your profile says 96). Spec in the FSM is 0-0.45 degrees toed in, with 0.25* preferred. Guessing 30" tires, 1/4-degree would be 1/8" width difference between the front and rear of the tires.

Awesome! After measuring 4 times, I'm .13 inches difference, but the steering wheel's just a bitt of to the left. After adjusting I should be right at 1/8". Perfect!
Aside from teh axle side nut being a PITA to torque down, everything went on without a hitch!
Just took it for a drive, and when I went over a bump it went to the right a bit. I then realized it was me compensating out of habit.
Drove around the block, and hit it again (big angular bump) without holding the wheel. No bump steer whatsoever and the groaning clunk on the left is gone too now that the axle's centered!
arty: