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H8PVMT
September 12th, 2010, 17:51
can't get the shoulders to line up mating a 4.0 and AW4 together, one side will go in but the other will be off by an inch or so, spent 6 hours trying to get this to go in and the wives involved aren't too happy, am I missing something obvious?

all on a 00 xj

Dads XJ
September 12th, 2010, 19:25
Shoulders? did you put the torque converter on the tranny spin it clockwise until it moves in twice. make sure you have the two pump drive splines lined up. If you bolted the t conv to the flex plate you can spin the crank from the front.

cruiser54
September 12th, 2010, 19:41
First mistake was getting wives involved. You're in Connecticut, not Utah, right?

joe_peters
September 12th, 2010, 20:23
Agree, make sure the torque converter is fully seated into the pump or damage will result.

NEVER attempt to mate up the engine with THE torque converter attached to the flexplate, to the transmission--the torque converter, the transmission pump, or both will be damaged.

JJacobs
September 12th, 2010, 22:05
Uh Joe, the converter has to be installed in the transmission, I'm sure that's what you meant. Your wording is a little fuzzy there.

To clarify the point- NEVER NEVER EVER attempt to bolt the converter to the flexplate and then install the transmission. You are almost guaranteed to break something that way!

joe_peters
September 12th, 2010, 22:11
Uh Joe, the converter has to be installed in the transmission, I'm sure that's what you meant. Your wording is a little fuzzy there.

To clarify the point- NEVER NEVER EVER attempt to bolt the converter to the flexplate and then install the transmission. You are almost guaranteed to break something that way!

Thanks, that didn't read as well as I intended. :doh:

JJacobs
September 12th, 2010, 22:17
Gotcha. Hope the OP didn't break anything yet like the guys that use super long bolts to get it all together. "There, I fixed it!" BOOM

H8PVMT
September 13th, 2010, 17:53
Agree, make sure the torque converter is fully seated into the pump or damage will result.

NEVER attempt to mate up the engine with THE torque converter attached to the flexplate, to the transmission--the torque converter, the transmission pump, or both will be damaged.


yeah realized the mistake at first and put the converter on the tranny, no damage thankfully. It was off one of the steps (1 inch) so that did it, got it seated and 2 main bolts as the rain started pouring down, threw up a tarp and got the motor mounts in and after 4 weeks got the engine in.

wish I had read this earlier though, luckily Art Triggs, a member here figured it out....it's his driveway it's sinking down in.

doug

H8PVMT
September 15th, 2010, 16:51
so I was tightening down the driverside bolt and there was a pop noise....engine wouldn't spin easy after that, loosened the engine bolts and took the plugs out and it was spinning fine, went to bolt the converter in and the holes didn't line up...no problem, spin the motor and the converter spun with it...big problem. Any way to fix this easily without removing the engine again?

sound like the converter is cocked in the engine? :flame:

JJacobs
September 15th, 2010, 21:11
Sounds like the converter still wasn't installed all the way and you may have broken the pump gear. Before you put the converter bolts in there should be maybe 1/4 inch clearance between the converter and flexplate, then the bolts pull the converter up tight to the flexplate.

H8PVMT
September 16th, 2010, 02:34
no other option than to pull the engine or tranny then....crap might be a local shop deal now

dave92cherokee
September 16th, 2010, 03:17
Why not pull it and fully assemble it outside of the jeep then slide the entire thing in at once? Then plenty of room to make sure everything is assembled correctly and torqued down properly.

H8PVMT
September 16th, 2010, 06:13
rather not pull the whole thing, this 4 day project has taken a month and a half calling shops today

NeXJ
September 18th, 2010, 12:51
A great way to get everything lined up is to purchase the right gauge all thread rod - cut it down to 1-2 ft pieces and use them as guides as you're dropping the engine in... my install was hell until I thought of this and it went in like butter after...

H8PVMT
September 18th, 2010, 13:16
this might solve my problem....once I replace the tranny, but still how would you know it was going in straight and not slightly off mine slid right in and was only off less than 1/4" and got a horrible snapping noise coming from inside the tranny

NeXJ
September 18th, 2010, 13:28
you just use nuts on the all-thread to drive it in with precise control. The reason I did it this way was to get the input shaft to line up properly without damaging anything... this was 10 years ago...so i can't remember everything... but I think the way it was started was putting nuts on each end of the all-thread... it might be the case that it was actually threaded through the mount holes too though maybe it's best to figure out the best tools to use for your own situation... either way - throwing a few nuts on the engine end will help you drive it in precisely - just take a ruler under there if there's any doubt which nuts to crank on first...