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engine install

H8PVMT

H8PVMT

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Central Maine
can't get the shoulders to line up mating a 4.0 and AW4 together, one side will go in but the other will be off by an inch or so, spent 6 hours trying to get this to go in and the wives involved aren't too happy, am I missing something obvious?

all on a 00 xj
 
Shoulders? did you put the torque converter on the tranny spin it clockwise until it moves in twice. make sure you have the two pump drive splines lined up. If you bolted the t conv to the flex plate you can spin the crank from the front.
 
Agree, make sure the torque converter is fully seated into the pump or damage will result.

NEVER attempt to mate up the engine with THE torque converter attached to the flexplate, to the transmission--the torque converter, the transmission pump, or both will be damaged.
 
Last edited:
Uh Joe, the converter has to be installed in the transmission, I'm sure that's what you meant. Your wording is a little fuzzy there.

To clarify the point- NEVER NEVER EVER attempt to bolt the converter to the flexplate and then install the transmission. You are almost guaranteed to break something that way!
 
JJacobs said:
Uh Joe, the converter has to be installed in the transmission, I'm sure that's what you meant. Your wording is a little fuzzy there.

To clarify the point- NEVER NEVER EVER attempt to bolt the converter to the flexplate and then install the transmission. You are almost guaranteed to break something that way!
Click to expand...

Thanks, that didn't read as well as I intended. :doh:
 
joe_peters said:
Agree, make sure the torque converter is fully seated into the pump or damage will result.

NEVER attempt to mate up the engine with THE torque converter attached to the flexplate, to the transmission--the torque converter, the transmission pump, or both will be damaged.
Click to expand...


yeah realized the mistake at first and put the converter on the tranny, no damage thankfully. It was off one of the steps (1 inch) so that did it, got it seated and 2 main bolts as the rain started pouring down, threw up a tarp and got the motor mounts in and after 4 weeks got the engine in.

wish I had read this earlier though, luckily Art Triggs, a member here figured it out....it's his driveway it's sinking down in.

doug
 
so I was tightening down the driverside bolt and there was a pop noise....engine wouldn't spin easy after that, loosened the engine bolts and took the plugs out and it was spinning fine, went to bolt the converter in and the holes didn't line up...no problem, spin the motor and the converter spun with it...big problem. Any way to fix this easily without removing the engine again?

sound like the converter is cocked in the engine? :flame:
 
Sounds like the converter still wasn't installed all the way and you may have broken the pump gear. Before you put the converter bolts in there should be maybe 1/4 inch clearance between the converter and flexplate, then the bolts pull the converter up tight to the flexplate.
 
no other option than to pull the engine or tranny then....crap might be a local shop deal now
 
Why not pull it and fully assemble it outside of the jeep then slide the entire thing in at once? Then plenty of room to make sure everything is assembled correctly and torqued down properly.
 
rather not pull the whole thing, this 4 day project has taken a month and a half calling shops today
 
A great way to get everything lined up is to purchase the right gauge all thread rod - cut it down to 1-2 ft pieces and use them as guides as you're dropping the engine in... my install was hell until I thought of this and it went in like butter after...
 
this might solve my problem....once I replace the tranny, but still how would you know it was going in straight and not slightly off mine slid right in and was only off less than 1/4" and got a horrible snapping noise coming from inside the tranny
 
you just use nuts on the all-thread to drive it in with precise control. The reason I did it this way was to get the input shaft to line up properly without damaging anything... this was 10 years ago...so i can't remember everything... but I think the way it was started was putting nuts on each end of the all-thread... it might be the case that it was actually threaded through the mount holes too though maybe it's best to figure out the best tools to use for your own situation... either way - throwing a few nuts on the engine end will help you drive it in precisely - just take a ruler under there if there's any doubt which nuts to crank on first...
 
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