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Add me to the club: Broken ring gear

S

sunburned

NAXJA Forum User
Location
So. MD
Thought it couldn't happen to me, but it did. First run out with RCV axles, ARB locked D30 and 35's. Wheeled the entire day and we were on the last trail. Running Pennsyltucky at Gore (Big Dogs Main Jambo) which is an 11 out of 12 rating I believe. Made it through the entire trail with only a few small hang-ups until the last big climb at the end. Tried to climb a rock just like I had been doing the entire trail and "pop-pop-pop-pop-pop!" I was able to drive it off the trail with some bad noises and pulled everything apart when we got back to camp. Everyone though it was the RCV that broke, but no dice. Pinion was all messed up too. I was able to pull the ring gear out and drive it 2 hours home with no issues. Gonna try a cryo treated R&P before I upgrade to a bigger axle.

IMG_20100912_105530.jpg

IMG_20100912_105458.jpg
 
This is why my stock shafts are going back in.
 
I believe they are precision gears, 4.56 ratio. Been in for over 2 years and never had an issue with 32's, then locked on 32s, then added RCVs. This is my first run with the 35s. Gears were redone 2 weeks ago because the pinion bearings went bad. It was a friend doing the work who has done many installs, but he was rushed and never checked the pattern. Judging by the way the pinion gear was chewed up on the edges of the teeth, the pinion may have been too shallow. Not sure if that attributed or not.
 
Shit happens. Mostly my fault because we had been working all day to install long-arms and fix the gears the day before I went to the beach.

Gonna get a local shop to put a new gearset in and run it again. I have a truss from Ballistic fab to install too, hopefully that prevents any remaining axle flex. Next event is in November at Rausch Creek. If it breaks again, then I'll start looking at a bigger axle.
 
Just trying to weigh my options right now on what to do. I'll be getting a new R&P put in sometime soon and I'll run this setup again until it breaks. Hopefully it'll last more than one run this time.

My issue is what to upgrade to. I just got 35's and I really don't want to go any bigger with my tires or lift. I haven't had a problem with breakage in the front until now, so I figure everything but the tiny R&P is good enough for what I have. The obvious next step up is a D44, but I don't think I want to spend all the time building up an old one. What would be my best option for getting a D44 center section and still use my stock outer stuff? Is that stupid to even consider? I know dynatrac and G2 both sell TJ width D44 axles with everything between the inner C's. Should I bother with that or just go with a complete D44 build? Trying to find something used as well.
 
ECKSJAY said:
The facepalm is strong with this one.
Click to expand...
Yes, it definitely is.

sunburned said:
The obvious next step up is a D44, but I don't think I want to spend all the time building up an old one.
Click to expand...
And your reasoning for this? Its just a housing, it doesn't go bad with time only, and when you build it, you will be replacing all the wear components anyways. I have a '33 year old axle under the front of my jeep, but every component in it is less than 3 years old.

sunburned said:
What would be my best option for getting a D44 center section and still use my stock outer stuff? Is that stupid to even consider?
Click to expand...
Ya, I think so.

sunburned said:
I know dynatrac and G2 both sell TJ width D44 axles with everything between the inner C's. Should I bother with that or just go with a complete D44 build? Trying to find something used as well.
Click to expand...
So you want used, but not old. Just go with a D44 build. By the time you build one yourself, you'll have a stronger axle with less money into it than those $5K axles those companies sell.
 
I don't care about the age of the housing, I just meant it would cost a ton to build up an old axle and replace everything in it. I started tallying up prices of stuff and was over $5k already with housing, ARB, RCV's, gears, bearings, Reid knuckles, HS arms, spindle/bearings, brakes, hubs and brackets. That's replacing pretty much everything with high quality parts.
 
Interesting, I built a narrowed HP44 with TNT truss/brackets, OX, gears, bearings, ball joints, Flattop knuckles, Parts Mike high steer arms, custom alloy inner shafts and alloy stub shafts, brakes, Warn Premiums, seals, '1 ton' steering set up from Ballistic. Everything replaced with with high quality parts, and I spent just over $3K. How did you get $5k?
 
sunburned, I think you're suffering from Stockaxle syndrome... it's like Stockholm syndrome, except it holds your wallet hostage while you defend it.
 
1. Strengthen the housing (truss good diff cover etc.)

Already have a Ruff Stuff cover and full case locker, which people said would reduce deflection. Ballistic Fab truss is sitting in my garage and will go on when the new gears go in.

2. Get good quality R&P and have it cryo'd

This is the next step. Going to a shop this time, no more 'friend favors'. I'm betting it'll last a lot longer.

3. Drive carefully

This probably won't happen lol. I don't go nuts, but I'm not afraid of the skinny pedal if I need to be. This is where I like the RCV's because I can be at full lock and still hammer on it. When the gears let go, all I did was pull up to a big rock that was at a 70* angle or so and hit the gas to climb it. Didn't nail it or anything. The tire started to rotate, then bang.
 
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