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Chainsaw questions From a No0B

NW-ZJ-SCOTT

NW-ZJ-SCOTT

TEXAS-JT-SCOTT
NAXJA Member
Location
NE Texas
I just acquired a McCullough pro mac 610.. It came with the case, Basic tools (bar tool&Sharpener)

i know VERY little about Chainsaws, I operated one for some fire wood cutting last fall and remember how to sharpen the blade, but i do NOT remember hot to change out the blade etc etc..

I can tell this unit is heavily used, but runs "Okay" i think i should do a basic tune-up on it before i use it for more firewood cutting..

what are some tips to make this thing run better? Just a new Plug?:wierd:
 
As for tune ups, those are very simple. air filter, plug, and fuel filter. im not sure how that saw is set up, but to change the blade there is most likely a cover on the saw itself that is being held on by a nut or two. that is where the sprocket and clutch assembly is. there should also be a tensioner in there too. most of the time they are adjusted with just a screw driver.
 
Before you do anything else with it, get a good set of chaps, steel toed boots, heavy gloves, and a face shield.

I'm not kidding... look for pictures of what happens when a saw jams or runs away from its operator and ends up on a foot or leg, and you will not touch the thing again till you have this equipment.
 
kastein said:
Before you do anything else with it, get a good set of chaps, steel toed boots, heavy gloves, and a face shield.

I'm not kidding... look for pictures of what happens when a saw jams or runs away from its operator and ends up on a foot or leg, and you will not touch the thing again till you have this equipment.
Click to expand...

X2!

Wasn't wearing chaps a few years back while I was cutting down our christmas tree. The chain caught in something and kicked back twice and caught me just above the knee. Luckily it stopped right before the muscle.
Never again!
 
Make sure you get the oil/fuel mix right. To lean on the oil and you can burn up the motor. To rich and it will smoke really bad. Most saws are around a 50:1 ratio. I suggest not mixing much over a gallon at a time since the ethanol in gas shortens its storage life greately.

To change a blade or bar is fairly easy. Loosen the cover bolts on the blade side of the saw. Usually 2 nuts. Looking from the front of the saw next to the blade there is some form of a tensioner. On my ECHO its just a straight headed screw thats next to the blade on the bottom front. Back off the tension on it a few turns until you can pop the chain off. Once its loose take the nuts off the rest of the way and remove the cover. The bar and chain should come right off. Now is a good time to clean all the chips and junk out and make sure the bar oiler outlet isn't blocked.

Assembly is the same as teardown. Just make sure you get the chain on in the right direction.

If you just using it for general use try to stick with semi chisel chain as its a bit less aggressive and less prone to bind/kick back.
 
kastein said:
Before you do anything else with it, get a good set of chaps, steel toed boots, heavy gloves, and a face shield.

I'm not kidding... look for pictures of what happens when a saw jams or runs away from its operator and ends up on a foot or leg, and you will not touch the thing again till you have this equipment.
Click to expand...

x's 3!

Graphic content ----> Chainsaw leg injury <---- Graphic content

I've seen this type of injury a few times, I'd rather spend the money on the safety gear than experience that type of injury. :shiver:
 
wheeling365 said:
Make sure you get the oil/fuel mix right. To lean on the oil and you can burn up the motor. To rich and it will smoke really bad. Most saws are around a 50:1 ratio. I suggest not mixing much over a gallon at a time since the ethanol in gas shortens its storage life greately.

.
Click to expand...

X2. I worked in a small engine shop a few years and saw a few to many saws burn up because they are running lean. some of these saws run ridiculously high RPMs and they have to be tuned correctly. and definitely mix the amount of fuel you need like he said. Fuel can go bad in a little as a couple months with the ethanol. Also, the type of mix oil can be very important. Some manufacturers recommend only their oil. I know stihl oil does not work in husqvarna saws too well because it is actually thicker than husqvarna oil so it runs extremely rich. same goes with redmax products. IMO the best oil and the one i recommended most was Red Max oil and Husqvarna XP oil. However, check with the manufacturer.
 
I run the service department for a landscape company here's some info off the top of my head but its been a while since we bought those

Like it was said before the oil mix is critical especially on that saw. They are strong runners but when they go its usually dumpster time a short block will cost ya almost as much as a new saw. Keep your saw sharp and make sure you do not have damaged links they can pop. They make good anti-kick back blades they cut slower and need to be filed slightly differntly there is usually a angle mark to follow. You can run a small amount of seafoam in the fuel to help keep the carb clean they like to gum up some when they sit with mix in them. Use some wd40 on the bar and blade when storing it if you need to replace the bar get a good quality one with a roller tip they last longer and are safer. Oh and above all do not operate it with out saftey equipment and it in top condition
 
Add a set of ear plugs to the safety list. Keep your helpers at a safe distance when running the saw.

Wayne
 

I can state from firsthand experience that chaps will save your leg. I had a Husqvarna with a 30 inch bar come back at me while felling trees on a forest fire. The blade was turning fast when it hit me about mid thigh, but never made it to my flesh. I spent about thirty minutes cleaning Kevlar and felt out the clutch and bar while swearing to never operate a chainsaw again without chaps, on or off the job.

I’ve got an old McCullough XL 113 I use as a camp saw. If you want to pull and clean the blade, it’s pretty easy. There should be two nuts on the right side of your saw, loosen these about a turn. Just in front of the nuts will be an adjustment screw, turn this counterclockwise to release the tension on the blade. Then finish removing the two nuts and side plate. From here you can pull the bar and blade, clean the automatic/manual chain oiler, and clean/service the clutch. I would not disassemble the clutch itself unless it is shot. I generally use low pressure air to remove chips and debris. I would also grease the bar sprocket. This is greased through a couple of small holes in the side of the bar next to the sprocket at the tip of the bar. The drive is pretty simple and made to be worked on in the woods (not much to hurt). When you’re done just reassemble the parts in reverse order and tighten the chain with the adjustment screw (but not too tight). Then tighten the two nuts to retain the adjustment and hold the assembly together. As a precaution I always double check the chain for the correct tension. I would also pick up a bar wrench, bar oil, and a grease gun for the bar sprocket. These are not expensive and can be purchased from about any supply chain such as hardware store or ranch supply. It might not be a bad idea to Google the make and model since most manufacturers have online service information.

Mine uses ½ pint of two stroke oil to a gallon of fuel. Yours may have the mixture on the fuel cap like my old saw. If not I would consult a dealer or a manual.
 
Thank you all for the helpful info. Since posting this thread, i have cut about 5 Cords of wood with this saw, I have 3 sharp newer condition chains that i carry with me.

It came with the Bar tool, and grease gun, it also came with a file/sharpener..

The big thing is the safety gear. I had NO clue, i have not used anything but a good pair of gloves and steel toe shoes. so thanks to you guys. i am now in the market and will not be operating it without a set of chaps and safety glasses.
 
the ratio for the fuel is usually 32:1 on older saws some of the newer one run 40:1. and u dont need chaps u need a brain. most people who have accidents r ones who r too lazy to get in the right position to cut in the first place. ie cutting with the saw side ways or upside down cuz they were too lazy to roll the fing log over. chaps r a very good idea but use ur common sense first. just remeber to always be at the back of the saw never on the side cuz thats when it will bite u if it jumps and dont be a gay XXXXer with a limp wrist. hold it tight.
 
bails85 said:
the ratio for the fuel is usually 32:1 on older saws some of the newer one run 40:1. and u dont need chaps u need a brain. most people who have accidents r ones who r too lazy to get in the right position to cut in the first place. ie cutting with the saw side ways or upside down cuz they were too lazy to roll the fing log over. chaps r a very good idea but use ur common sense first. just remeber to always be at the back of the saw never on the side cuz thats when it will bite u if it jumps and dont be a gay XXXXer with a limp wrist. hold it tight.
Click to expand...

Ask any professional logger or arborist how often they run a saw without chaps. Their answer will be: NEVER. Anyone who does run a saw without chaps is an idiot who is just waiting for a Darwin Award. In fact, I bet the same kind of idiots that don't think they need chaps are the same kind of idiots that type like a 12 year old girl texts.
:skull2:
 
hey didnt i say chaps were a good idea. no need to be a prick. since he is new to using the saw and doesnt know much about it i wanted to stress operating angle so he isnt in the way of the saw in the first place. and watch ax men or swamp loggers none of them wear chaps.
 
I swear the level off asshatism is increasing all over the forum latley. Can't you all just relax and show some respect to eachother? Yes all saftey equipment is a good idea on general premises but people are allowed to choose not to use it. It only takes one milisecond to be hurt.
 
well To be fair, you dont NEED chaps.. but you also dont NEED a seatbelt..

safety is not something i will argue about. if it's not for you, then understand why your being laughed at when your down.
 
Bails85, how do you propose turning a still-standing tree so that it is in the right position to cut without the blade being sideways?

Sorry, I will wear my chaps. Your post has done nothing to convince me you have any idea what you are talking about.
 
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