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Help with a front axle swap on an 87 XJ Pioneer!

oldassXJlover

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MASS-AH-CHU-SETS
Hey guys, I'm brand new to this so I was just wondering if anyone had any tips on a front axle swap for my XJ. The shock mounts are going, coil mount(driver side) is gone, and I think I stripped some teeth off my pinion gear last time out wheelin! I got a Dana44 in the rear which seems pretty strong but I wondering whether I should go for D60's front and rear so I know that the gearing will be the same. Does anyone have any experience pulling D60's outta the junkyard and throwing them onto a Cherokee? If so I'd really appreciate any tips and suggestions! I was told I could swap front and rear axles off a newer suburban? It's going to be only offroad use so longer axles definetly don't matter to me, if that helps any.:flame:
 
:)
This one for the front...

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=353&plID=354&partID=53093

and this one for the back...

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.a...oogle&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=product

It'll all bolt in. Ready to go. While you're at it order me a set too. :)

Welcome to Naxja. The first thing I would suggest that you do is search for build threads and figure out which direction you want to go. There's tons of options!

Start here:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=910505&highlight=dana+60
 
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yep... 60s are not gonna be cheap, for bolt in you bend over for a fab company, otherwise, you are the fab company!

If you want to get it rolling again drop me a PM, swapping in a newer rust free d30 takes about 3-4 hours with 2 people working in a parking lot with no power tools, done it a few times for friends now. What size tires are you running? The d30 is pretty strong up to 32s or 33s, especially if treated right.
 
I can fab. a little. I have a mig welder and access to an arc with plenty of inside room to work. I also have a full shop at work that I can use to my disposal. I've considered swapping direct fit but was def hoping to really beef it up as I am pretty heavy on the gas (newbie, but i'm learning). I'm currently replacing all the metal in the rear end and floors, I love this 87 pioneer to death, which is why I want to get it to 110%. All this info so far on axle swaps has helped a lot! I'll post some pics of progress on here really soon, as soon as i figure out how to do it...
 
if your a newbie and you have to ask then your no where near ready for a d60, it takes alot of work and money to properly put them under a rig, listen to kastien about just swappin in another 30
 
If you can weld, then there are kits for installing axles in the front of an XJ. The rear is easy. It is the four link mounting points that are hard to get on right, along with castor angles and drag link mounts. If you can measure all this in and get it right, then go for it. But if you can't, then leave well enough alone and just upgrade what you have.
 
If you can weld, then there are kits for installing axles in the front of an XJ. The rear is easy. It is the four link mounting points that are hard to get on right, along with castor angles and drag link mounts. If you can measure all this in and get it right, then go for it. But if you can't, then leave well enough alone and just upgrade what you have.
them kits are a pit pricey at $300-$400, you can get a decent sized chunk on .25 plate and some time with a angle grinder for alot cheaper, and good lock getting a upper link on the drivers side with a ford unless your running 12" of lift, the only way to run is a 3 link with the upper on the pass side
 
This second post is just for the word "cheap" since you cant use that word in the same post as that certain number posted above :D
 
This second post is just for the word "cheap" since you cant use that word in the same post as that certain number posted above :D

I haven't done 60s in an XJ, but I have done a number of other custom front ends. I think I could do it fairly "cheap" where cheap is a relative word. Not including the cost of that front axle of course. But as far as the brackets go, I can make all those with parts laying around and and some 1/4" flat plate for about $40 tops. Steering might be a little pricy, $200 for good solid stuff. I would make the front track bar and brackets for $150. And possibly some front brake lines. $100 for Tom Woods to take care of that 1310 u joint on my front drive line. I would salvage the coil buckets. That doesn't include cost of lockers and gears and changing wheels. The rear would just be u bolts, $40, move the spring pad brake line and another $100 to Tom Woods.
 
I haven't done 60s in an XJ, but I have done a number of other custom front ends. I think I could do it fairly "cheap" where cheap is a relative word. Not including the cost of that front axle of course. But as far as the brackets go, I can make all those with parts laying around and and some 1/4" flat plate for about $40 tops. Steering might be a little pricy, $200 for good solid stuff. I would make the front track bar and brackets for $150. And possibly some front brake lines. $100 for Tom Woods to take care of that 1310 u joint on my front drive line. I would salvage the coil buckets. That doesn't include cost of lockers and gears and changing wheels. The rear would just be u bolts, $40, move the spring pad brake line and another $100 to Tom Woods.
what is tom woods doig for $100 that a $34 spicer adapter ujoint cant do? ans i wouldnt waste my time tryin to salvage the stock coil buckets, they can be made from the steel plate very easy or a d30 hub
 
I think I could do it fairly "cheap" where cheap is a relative word.

I thought that too, at first. And while mine may cost less then others, it ain't gunna be cheap.



Not including the cost of that front axle of course.

:doh: the complete HP60 is about the cheapest thing Ive bought so far.



That doesn't include cost of lockers and gears and changing wheels.

Nor alot of other things. How can you try to calculate costs without them?
 
what is tom woods doig for $100 that a $34 spicer adapter ujoint cant do? ans i wouldnt waste my time tryin to salvage the stock coil buckets, they can be made from the steel plate very easy or a d30 hub

Changing the 1310 to a 1350 ujoint. $34 might be cheaper, but not better. If I am going to the trouble and expense to put in a couple of 60s, I'll let Tom take care of shortening and changing the ends of the drive lines. That is a cheaper price for that than anything local.
 
I can fab. a little. I have a mig welder and access to an arc with plenty of inside room to work. I also have a full shop at work that I can use to my disposal. I've considered swapping direct fit but was def hoping to really beef it up as I am pretty heavy on the gas (newbie, but i'm learning). I'm currently replacing all the metal in the rear end and floors, I love this 87 pioneer to death, which is why I want to get it to 110%. All this info so far on axle swaps has helped a lot! I'll post some pics of progress on here really soon, as soon as i figure out how to do it...
As far as axle's GO 60's trust me ! You can do it just take you'r time and research. To save money just run stock gear's and etc.... try pirate 4x4.com to research info.
 
As far as axle's GO 60's trust me ! You can do it just take you'r time and research. To save money just run stock gear's and etc.... try pirate 4x4.com to research info.
running stock gears aint easy on ujoints, drive shafts and motor mounts, not somthing you wanna do with heavy axles that already put stress on everything else
 
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