• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Detours Backbone Mounting Questions

98XJSport

98XJSport

Destiny is the rising sun
Location
Western Maine
Im in the process of mounting a backbone on the front of my 98 XJ and have run into a couple little snags. As is typical, I had 1 steering box bolt snap. If all the other bolts are in, will this 1 broken bolt make any difference or can I leave it until I have a way to get it all disconnected and out? Also, when I removed the bolts a large washer fell out and I didn't see where it came from. Ive read its probably a spacer, where would it go, on the upper bolt closest to the firewall?

I also plan on installing the light mount, which goes between the winch and the plate. Obviously this will keep the bolts holding the winch from threading into it as far. Will this be a poblem, or should I pick up some longer bolts? Would grade 8 bolts be strong enough for a winch?
 
98XJSport said:
Im in the process of mounting a backbone on the front of my 98 XJ and have run into a couple little snags. As is typical, I had 1 steering box bolt snap. If all the other bolts are in, will this 1 broken bolt make any difference or can I leave it until I have a way to get it all disconnected and out? Also, when I removed the bolts a large washer fell out and I didn't see where it came from. Ive read its probably a spacer, where would it go, on the upper bolt closest to the firewall?

I also plan on installing the light mount, which goes between the winch and the plate. Obviously this will keep the bolts holding the winch from threading into it as far. Will this be a poblem, or should I pick up some longer bolts? Would grade 8 bolts be strong enough for a winch?
Click to expand...

Don't be driving it much, or at all, with a broken steering box bolt. I snapped two of mine as well and when turning, the box moved a good bit without that bolt. I could not get it drilled out either so I had to get a reman box at advance.

Always make sure the nut threads on FULLY for any crucial component on the jeep, especially the winch which is under tremendous load when pulling. Get 1/4 or 1/2 inch longer bolts if you need to.

Here's my write-up if you need any help on anything:

http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f64/how-install-detours-backbone-3975/
 
Last edited:
98XJSport said:
I also plan on installing the light mount, which goes between the winch and the plate. Obviously this will keep the bolts holding the winch from threading into it as far. Will this be a poblem, or should I pick up some longer bolts? Would grade 8 bolts be strong enough for a winch?
Click to expand...
Pick up longer bolts. The bolts that come with the winch are grade 5, and I think I remember seeing something in my Warn manual that says to only use grade 5? I can't remember at the moment.






muddeprived said:
Here's my write-up if you need any help on anything:

http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f64/how-install-detours-backbone-3975/
Click to expand...

Just a little aside, I looked through your write up, and noticed something that no one pointed out in the response to your posts.


Write Up said:
Now it's time to slide the detour's bumper onto the frame but I decided to check the bolt holes first. Good thing I did cuz

look what I found:

DSCF6041.jpg


Whoever rebuilt the front end didn't do it perfectly. The bolt holes were blocked 1/2 way by the nutsert for the sway bar brackets.

Both sides too.....
Click to expand...

That is how every Cherokee comes, that is not a bad repair job. Just thought I'd let you know.
 
Thanks for the tips and writeup, and I noticed the half blocked hole on mine too. However, it's only on the passenger side that it's blocked. I was going to ask about drilling it out, so now I know. And Ill park it until I can get the steering box fixed then, and Im going to order a steering box plate from c rock as well, the spacer I found on the ground looked beat. Anything special to removing the steering box? Or just disconnect the hoses and hope none of those break, too?
 
Begster said:
Pick up longer bolts. The bolts that come with the winch are grade 5, and I think I remember seeing something in my Warn manual that says to only use grade 5? I can't remember at the moment.








Just a little aside, I looked through your write up, and noticed something that no one pointed out in the response to your posts.




That is how every Cherokee comes, that is not a bad repair job. Just thought I'd let you know.
Click to expand...

Yeah at the time I thought it was just my jeep cuz it was in an accident by the previous owner and rebuilt but then I saw a few other cherokees with the same issue. Thanks for pointing it out though.
 
98XJSport said:
Thanks for the tips and writeup, and I noticed the half blocked hole on mine too. However, it's only on the passenger side that it's blocked. I was going to ask about drilling it out, so now I know. And Ill park it until I can get the steering box fixed then, and Im going to order a steering box plate from c rock as well, the spacer I found on the ground looked beat. Anything special to removing the steering box? Or just disconnect the hoses and hope none of those break, too?
Click to expand...

Disconnect the hoses and hope the hose isn't seized to the head like mine was. I had to replace both hoses. They came out but the damn thing was seized to the spinning connector so it would not spin out, only twist the hose into spaghetti.

Once the hoses are out, loosen the steering shaft bolt and pry it off the splined shaft. It should fall out in your hands.
 
98XJSport said:
Anything special to removing the steering box? Or just disconnect the hoses and hope none of those break, too?
Click to expand...
In the past, I've found it easier to remove the hoses where they connect to the steering pump.
Be careful though with the return line that goes into the plastic reservoir. Use a knife and slice the top of it open, the length of the little nipple it is on. I have broke that nipple off trying to pull the line off, and every subsequent time I haven't been able to pull it off without a little slice.
 
I'd buy new PS hoses prior to trying it... but then again my rigs are rusty as hell and I'm paranoid from having other hoses and fittings break on me back when I didn't buy spares first.

Yeah, I also noted that those knuckleheads at the factory/design team managed to half-block one of the mounting holes.

FYI the steering box bolts are 7/16-14 UNC grade 8, 4.5" long iirc. They are EXACTLY the right length so I would buy new ones that are a half inch longer and trim the end if needed, otherwise they won't get full thread engagement after installing tow hook or bumper tie-in brackets. I would also see if I could find tall-head style bolts because it helps avoid rounding the heads off.

Strangely I have only broken steering box bolts on parts jeeps, never on any of my driveable rigs. They came out of both the 91 and the 96 with ease, and both are rotboxes.
 
Got stuck working late so I couldn't try this tonite. Thanks for the advice, sounds like some good tips so hopefully it goes well. Once I have it on a bench it should be pretty easy to get the bolt out. And new bolts came with the backbone, I think they are longer.
 
Got the box out with no issues, hoses came off no problem. The c-rok plate came in yesterday, waiting on the sun to come up a bit more so I can paint.

My 2 new questions:

Anyone that has installed the steering box reinforcement plate, are the bolt spacers necessary? I dont have power where the XJ is sitting right now, so can't drill out the openings for them. Ill probably go buy some more extension cord and give it a go, But curious as to what they do or how much they help.

And the bolts that came with my winch are 8.8 not grade 5. I bought some longer 8.8 bolts, then reread this and saw mention of grade 5. Should I ditch these ones and go back for grade 5 bolts?
 
Now that I think about it, 8.8 is metric obviously. Is that the equivilant of grade 5? Grade 8? Good enough?
 
98XJSport said:
Got the box out with no issues, hoses came off no problem. The c-rok plate came in yesterday, waiting on the sun to come up a bit more so I can paint.

My 2 new questions:

Anyone that has installed the steering box reinforcement plate, are the bolt spacers necessary? I dont have power where the XJ is sitting right now, so can't drill out the openings for them. Ill probably go buy some more extension cord and give it a go, But curious as to what they do or how much they help.

And the bolts that came with my winch are 8.8 not grade 5. I bought some longer 8.8 bolts, then reread this and saw mention of grade 5. Should I ditch these ones and go back for grade 5 bolts?
Click to expand...

What "bolt spacers" are you speaking of? The sleeves that go inside the frame rail?

What winch did you get? I would think that what they include with the winch is fine to use.
 
Yes the sleeves. Im gonna run a crapload of extension cord to see if I have enough.

I have an XRC8 the only reason Im not using the ones they include is the detours has a light bar that bolts under the winch. Basically 1/4" spacers so I bought some 8.8 bolts that are 1/4" longer.
 
98XJSport said:
Yes the sleeves. Im gonna run a crapload of extension cord to see if I have enough.

I have an XRC8 the only reason Im not using the ones they include is the detours has a light bar that bolts under the winch. Basically 1/4" spacers so I bought some 8.8 bolts that are 1/4" longer.
Click to expand...

I used the sleeves and I had the same setup (c-rok and detours). The sleeves keep the framerail from crushing when you tighten down the bolts. It's probably not really 100% necessary since you are using detour's bracing on the other side and it's spreading the load of the bolts but I would use em anyways just to be sure it doesn't crush. they are supposed to add some strength to it too.

Included in the Inside Frame Plate kit are three, through frame bolt spacer sleeves to help rigidly tie the outside of the frame rail to the inside. These bolt spacer sleeves provide far greater strength than the factory internal frame cast metal “rib” which does not fully encircle the box bolts
Click to expand...
Ask your gf (or mom if you are young) for a coredless drill for xmas. lol
 
Last edited:
I think there are already sleeves in there from what I can see. Guess these ones are stronger/tighter with less slop around the bolt.

Ive got a cordless but it sucks, used to work well. Need a good dewalt or something someday. Ive got to use a rotary tool for the half blocked hole already, might as well do it all now that I have the backbone off.
 
98XJSport said:
I think there are already sleeves in there from what I can see. Guess these ones are stronger/tighter with less slop around the bolt.

Ive got a cordless but it sucks, used to work well. Need a good dewalt or something someday. Ive got to use a rotary tool for the half blocked hole already, might as well do it all now that I have the backbone off.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's how I did it. The dremel worked well with the cutting bit I had on it for the blocked holes.
 
To make things better I can't get the beat up old bit out of the tool.

But it was sharp enough to get rid of the sheet metal for the spacers.

But then it gets even better.

The bolts wouldn't line up in the steering box to save my life. Then the bottom two went in... CROSSTHREADED! Damn thing.

Going shopping for a new steering box.
 
98XJSport said:
To make things better I can't get the beat up old bit out of the tool.

But it was sharp enough to get rid of the sheet metal for the spacers.

But then it gets even better.

The bolts wouldn't line up in the steering box to save my life. Then the bottom two went in... CROSSTHREADED! Damn thing.

Going shopping for a new steering box.
Click to expand...

I had the same issue with my dremel. I loosened the clamp at the end, clamped a vice grip on the bit, and hammered it up and down to loosen it. It eventually came out. Sometimes you need to twist it really good to break the clamp.

I feel for you on that box. I had to replace mine too cuz the bolts snapped in it.
 
New box will be in this morning, gotta go pull the pitman arm and hoses off once the sun comes up.

Any tips for pulling the arm or lining the box back up?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
CavFab adjustable trackbar (UTA) + bracket
Replies
1
Views
204
RCP Phx
R
W
WJ rear split seat lowers in XJ - mounting to floor or body seam?
Replies
0
Views
2K
Woodswanderer
W
T
1 Ton steering clearance issues
Replies
9
Views
849
XJChang
X
E
Steering Redo.... Questions before I dive in.
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
RCP Phx
R
1
question about rear bumper, shackle relocation and gas tank skid plate fitment
Replies
10
Views
3K
IslanderOffRoad
IslanderOffRoad
Back
Top