successes with my trans and a radiator issue

Ok so I thought I would share my success at fixing my AW4 issue. For a couple months now if i tries to reverse under load (i.e. uphill or in the mud) the engine would bog out and die.

I got a few tips to check every line going into the trans and make sure it was tight, couldnt find any issue. poor man flushed the trans, took the heep to rausch creek and killed a red top due to having to restart many times. was about ready to throw in the towel and take it to a mechanic when I came across sea foam TRANS TUNE! made a huge difference, shifts great and reverse works perfectly. guess i had some clogged valves or something.

now I can finally give her some $$$$ Royal Purple ATF!

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I also had one question about my radiator. Its the original 1 core with about 160K miles on it. It seems to have a hairline crack in the center of the passenger plastic tank. I though these things only split where the metal core is crimped to the plastic?

It may also be that the upper hose is leaking a little and the pressurized leak "bouncing" off the plastic tank makes it look like a leak... its hard to see. well I plan on replacing the hoses tomorrow, but if there is a small crack, whats the best way to repair it?

maybe it is time to update my cooling system anyways, and Ive read tons of threads about 1 row VS. 3 row. whats the best place to buy a 3 row from?

Also, I was looking at radiator barn and they carry a full aluminum, CSF 2 core. that may be a good option considering how there seem to be just as many 1 core followers as there are 3 core. Any thoughts?

If you wheel (you obviously do) I would suggest a copper/brass radiator only.

Why? If your engine mounts blow or a stick/tree/something takes out your radiator, you can remove it, spend 15 minutes with a plumbing torch, and have it fixed and reinstalled in another 15. If you have an aluminum radiator... good luck, find some eggs or something.

Copper also conducts heat approximately 60% better than aluminum.

kastein said:

If you wheel (you obviously do) I would suggest a copper/brass radiator only.

Why? If your engine mounts blow or a stick/tree/something takes out your radiator, you can remove it, spend 15 minutes with a plumbing torch, and have it fixed and reinstalled in another 15. If you have an aluminum radiator... good luck, find some eggs or something.

Copper also conducts heat approximately 60% better than aluminum.

Click to expand...

where can I buy one of these an all brass/copper radiator?

I can only find a nisens copper w/ plastic tanks.

I believe CSF makes a 3 core that's 100% solderable material.

I have a 2 core I bought at a part-out, I am not certain whether it was an OEM unit or an aftermarket. My MJ and a 95 XJ that a friend just parted both came with OEM copper/brass units, both unfortunately very corroded.

www.dpgoff-road.com/site/radiators.htm

www.radiatorbarn.com

I put the all metal 3 core CSF (listed as Heavy Duty Three Row) from radiatorbarn in my heep. Think I paid $165 shipped a couple of years ago, but the prices have jumped since then.

yeah they have. Is the DPG one free shipping? both sites are about the same price, but the barn ships free. Will probably order from DPG just for the sake of supporting a 4x4 site.

Thanks


oh and the CSF 3 core is all copper right?

Yes, the CSF HD 3-core is all metal (copper/brass).