• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

shackle relocation bracket made drive line angle way off

D

drumnerd33

NAXJA Forum User
Location
colorado springs
ok well i finally got my rear axle done (ive rebuilt both axles completely) and i did the shackle relocation brackets by hd offroad engineering... they are bad ass... but they gave me an extra inch of lift and i needed 2, so i got lift shackles and its perfect............ except my axle angle is so high that my pinon to driveshaft angle is almost going at the wrong angle,

200804.jpg

200815.jpg



my full build is under drumnerd33 noob build if you wanna look at it, but anyways my thought was to take the shims i have and use them to lower the angle of the pinon, so basically use them the opposite of what they normally would do like raise the angle, any advice is greatly appreciated... and no i dont have the money right now to put in a slip yoke eliminator.. thanks
 
Shims are meant to be used in either direction to correct pinion angles!
 
However if you shim it the other way especially with the lift, you will run out of drive shaft length and lose it on the trail. Bite the bullet and get a SYE and front shaft. The hack n tap with front shaft is probably as cheap as those relocation brackets were. Sound like you picked the wrong mod first.
 
X2, that is exactly what I was going to suggest.

A hack and tap can be done for as little as 130-140 dollars if you do things right, ~90 shipped for the yoke, 20 for another front shaft, remaining for bolts/misc tools and stuff you'll need.

EDIT: depending on rearend/transfer case/vehicle year/transmission/engine, you may need different front shafts for this mod or even a custom length shaft.
 
Well the hack and tap was kinda in my plan and I figured worst case I might need to with this lift, just kinda started runnin out of money (damn arbs killed me) and I'm supposed to get laid off soon.... So I have a front shaft here right now but what do I het the yoke off of? Cuz I was just gonna buy the kit to do it but if I can get the yoke and all I'll just build my own kit
 
I still need to shim it down so I'm gonna do that first and see if it helps and see what how much slip yoke I lose, cuz right Now the slip yoke is almost all the way in
 
buy the 3103-27CV yoke from drive-lines.com, it's about 80 bucks plus shipping. Then read the gojeep writeup on doing a hack-and-tap, it should answer the rest of your questions.
 
Well I know you are supposed to use a protractor to match the angle comin out of the transfer case... But I don't know if I need to tilt 4 degrees does that mean I need a 4 degree shim
 
The way to do it is with an angle finder. Mine looks like this:

IMG_0455.jpg


Then you want to match the angles of the pinion and tcase output so they look like this:

2joint_angle.gif


The best way to do it is to unhook the drive shaft from the pinion and stick the magnetic strip on the pinion itself. Then remove the slip yoke and use the seal surface for the tcase output. Then subtract one value from the other and that is the number of degrees of the shim you need. Takes all the trial and error and guess work out of it.
 
Ok yeah I have that same one except it's a greenlee. I'm a union electrician that's what we use for pipe work, We just call it a protractor. Well Ill check the angles and see if the shims will line them up. Now correct me if I'm mistaken but the slip yoke elimanator makes it so the angles don't need to match? That's what the double Cardon joint is for?
 
For a conventional shaft you want the pinion to be a few degrees (1-2) "below" the transfer case output so that under high torque when you will notice the vibrations the most, they are parallel due to spring wrap. For a double cardan joint, you want the pinion to be a few degrees "below" the driveshaft itself, since the double cardan contains two U-joints and an angle equalizing assembly that will keep the two joints at equal angles which eliminates vibrations from them, leaving only the angle at the joint at the pinion end of the shaft, which should be at 0 angle to the pinion when it's under heavy load.
 
drumnerd33 said:
Ok yeah I have that same one except it's a greenlee. I'm a union electrician that's what we use for pipe work, We just call it a protractor. Well Ill check the angles and see if the shims will line them up. Now correct me if I'm mistaken but the slip yoke elimanator makes it so the angles don't need to match? That's what the double Cardon joint is for?
Click to expand...

No, then the angles need to look like this:

cv_angle.gif
 
The shaft itself is different as well AFAIK. I know I saw a picture of the two side by side recently.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
Leaf Spring Options
Replies
2
Views
117
nrparrott
N
F
Shackle Relocation - IronMan4x4 Brackets
2
Replies
25
Views
6K
dktool
D
T
XJ shackle with custom springs question.
Replies
11
Views
206
XJlimitedx99
X
R
front Spring And Shock Bracket angle
Replies
15
Views
4K
rackmaster
R
ehall
steering overhaul
Replies
6
Views
121
XJEEPER
XJEEPER
Back
Top