NP242 Rebuild related

Ordered a bearing and seal kit from sponsor National Drivetrain.

I'm thinking i should also pick up a shift fork pad kit. Q'tech shows two kits.. both listed for the 231. One has a three peice kit for $7ish and this one for twice that and nine piece.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52219_01.htm

I havent had a 242 open since i installed the sye and new chain 10 years and 46K miles ago. Which kit do i need?

Figure i should also do the AW4 rear output seal while it's easily accessible. No tricks to this job? Anyone have a NAPA or similar part#?

I just swapped the planetaries in an NP242 this weekend. IIRC, the NP242 has two shift forks, so you need the more expensive kit.

Thanks Tom.. i'll call them now.

Anyone have a part# for the aw4 rear output seal? It's an 88 if it matters.

Got another question..

The tailcones bearing fit is a tad loose, not drastic but i can work the bearing out with my fingers or tapping it lightly. I'm hoping the new bearing is a tad tighter when i go to install it.

Talking to a bud he recommended loctite 680 bearing cement. I'm thinking this is overkill. If anything i plan to use some hitack 67B to tighten it up if needed.

Is this common? Would RTV suffice?

Take your buddies advice.

Alright, guess i gotta pick some up then. Thanks..

I'm having trouble here.. and 4 days away from a 5500K miles trip. I could use some guidance..

When i reinstalled the transfercase it had no forward or reverse movement while trans in gear and TC in 2wd. Tore it back apart in the vehicle, found i installed the gear that slides into rearmost (rear driveshaft side) shiftfork backwards. Remedied tis and reassembled... all seemed fine. TC shifter runs through all positions.

This am i was jumping in to run to a buds house and do some more work, going down the street i can hear a very faint noise like it's the internals turning dry without lubricant. I also dont have my Fulltime position.. i'm getting a grinding sound.

I am damn near positive that i have the pickup tube, oring and oil pump installed correctly. The rebuild kit i received did not have the proper seal for the oilpump ID so it's still running the old one.

I also never removed the shift rail and forks or the front planetary assembly or input gear, opting to replace output bearings and the seals i did have.

Checking against my memory and the FSM i have the detent pin assembled backwards.. i cant see the FSM being correct. In all pics in FSM the detent pin end shows the smaller OD end towards the lever.. EXCEPT the full exploded diagram on page 21-318. Compare this pic to the ones on pages 300 and 313 and you'll see what i'm attempting to explain. Removed my detent and you can clearly see it has a little visable markings where it slid over the lever.. i'm confident it was installed correctly.


Sorry about the novel here.. i'm about to reinstall the detent and check it again, then tear it back down to get a visual on the oilpump and pickup tube.

Any other ideas? Throw them out there..

To add.. i tore this TC down looking for a bearing noise. I found the front and rear shaft outputs to have a little slop. Basically all i did was replace those bearings and a few seals. Chain and SYE in this case is 10 years old with 45K miles.

I also found that the spacer that goes behind the rear output shaft flange had some wear, Tom Woods sent me a new one.

I need input here...

I had to bail on my western trip, ended up in surgery and the Jeep has sat since. I did manage to reassemble it all and i still have issues. It does not have a fulltime position, feel like neutral.

I verified it's not linkage related by disconnecting it and manually engaging the lever from underneath. It's up on jackstands with no front driveshaft.

So, after disassembly and reassembly no less than 6-7 times i figured i installed something incorrectly. I picked up another 242, took the outer case half off and verified each piece is installed correctly.

Anyone have an idea why i would not have fulltime? Desperate here.. NAC Rocktoberfest is coming up and i need to get in the woods.

OverlandXJ said:

Thanks Tom.. i'll call them now.

Anyone have a part# for the aw4 rear output seal? It's an 88 if it matters.

Click to expand...

starts with 8350... I'll check the parts catalog in a bit, used to have this number memorized but haven't used it in a while.

EDIT: 8350 4055, fits all years 4wd AW4 as far as I know.

for reference oe part numbers can be found http://www.crownautomotive.net/category/NP242-Transfer-Case.html#83501389 and from places like jeep4x4center.com & more.

kastein said:

starts with 8350... I'll check the parts catalog in a bit, used to have this number memorized but haven't used it in a while.

EDIT: 8350 4055, fits all years 4wd AW4 as far as I know.

Click to expand...

JrTxJ said:

for reference oe part numbers can be found http://www.crownautomotive.net/category/NP242-Transfer-Case.html#83501389 and from places like jeep4x4center.com & more.

Click to expand...

Thanks guys, i am beyond needing part numbers now. The original case is back in and bolted to the trans. I have the outter case half and internals out.

Just checked the differential in my original case to the donors.. both have the same resistance and play. I may swap in the donor differential just to rule out a bad one.

Ran outta RTV.. need to get some more. Fourth tube..

Reassembled everything yesterday and filled with fluid today.

I decided to swap in the differential from the 2nd 242 and while doing so i found i was missing a part in mine. It's a thin metal ring called a "bearing spacer" that sits on either side of the needle bearings between mainshaft and diff. I must have lost this 10 years ago when i did the SYE.

No change.. still no fulltime function. :bawl:

Anyone think i'll damage the TC if run as is?

I'd just bring a spare NP231 with you and the tools to swap it out, and find out :dunno:

my answer to many questions is "bring a spare and try it" though, so no guarantees :roflmao:

kastein said:

I'd just bring a spare NP231 with you and the tools to swap it out, and find out :dunno:

my answer to many questions is "bring a spare and try it" though, so no guarantees :roflmao:

Click to expand...

Dont have a 231 lying around with a Woods SYE and driveshaft flange.

I do have a Woods SYE for a 96+ 231.. then i'd have to make it 21 spline since i'm using my totaled 88's AW4/242 combo.