Motor and Trans Mounts

Seems like a pretty easy job, except that I don't have a floor jack or jack stands. I just brought the jeep to school and didn't think to pack them. It seems like it would be a disaster with just the factory jack, but maybe I can manage if I just buy a set of jack stands. What do you think? Or maybe some kind person nearby with the right tools might be able to help me out?

theres no need for jack stands, i wouldnt recomend useing the factory bottle jack unless you absolutly need to

Well, I was thinking the jack stands could be there 'just in case' because my fear is that the factory jack will slip out at a bad time. I mean, slipping is what makes the factory jack a bad idea, right?

I think you can get a little baby bottle jack from Harbor Freight for about 12 bucks. tiny little thing 2.5ton rated. Seriously, it's about the size of the factory screw jack. That and a small block of wood would be perfect to raise & hold the engine and trans while the mounts came out one at a time.

tbburg said:

I think you can get a little baby bottle jack from Harbor Freight for about 12 bucks. tiny little thing 2.5ton rated. Seriously, it's about the size of the factory screw jack. That and a small block of wood would be perfect to raise & hold the engine and trans while the mounts came out one at a time.

Click to expand...

Agree, you just need to nudge things a little and that should do it just fine.

For around a couple hunnert bucks, you can get a hoist. If you hang onto a Jeep, eventually, you'll need one. Might as well start getting your shop put together.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-93840.html

I've done it with a hydraulic bottle jack and blocks of wood. Nice thing about the bottle jack is that you can raise and lower it in tiny increments. Down side is that you can end up in a situation that's like trying to balance an elephant on the end of a broomstick. Be CAREFUL!!!

joe_peters said:

tbburg said:

I think you can get a little baby bottle jack from Harbor Freight for about 12 bucks. tiny little thing 2.5ton rated. Seriously, it's about the size of the factory screw jack. That and a small block of wood would be perfect to raise & hold the engine and trans while the mounts came out one at a time.

Click to expand...

Agree, you just need to nudge things a little and that should do it just fine.

Click to expand...

That's a great suggestion. I forgot how disgustingly cheap things are at harbor freight. Thanks fellows.

As for a hoist, well, I am going to wait until I'm done with school to start putting together a real shop. For the time being I'm just renting a place with a tiny garage.

I'd pick up a 2 ton harbor freight hoist, those things will put up with a lot. I've had an entire jeep drivetrain dangling from one on the 500 pound setting (figure 700+ pounds at least) and bounced it around and dragged it across a yard and it didn't even come close to breaking.

It's also what I used to do my engine mounts, did the trans mount using a harbor freight 3 ton hydro jack under the tranny pan. It flexed the pan a bit but doesn't seem to have hurt anything.

Note... don't be right under the crossmember when you remove it. Either it will dump grit and gunk all over your face, or fall on you, or both.

EDIT: and if you are in there anyways replace the exhaust bushing at the crossmember as well, don't know the part number for the one with the round peg from the exhaust but the half-moon shaped peg one is 5300 0101, available from morris 4x4 for a couple bucks.

Well, so far so good. Got the trans mount and the driver side motor mount in. The oil filter adapter gave me a hard time, so I called it a day. The oil filter adapter needs to be rotated, right? And you loosen the bolt in the center of it, right? It's not left-hand thread or anything is it? It feels like it is gonna snap.

This is why it is always best to start a thread with your BASICS--year/engine/etc./etc.

Three different bolts were used. The early ones are standard hex head and are quite easy to loosen. Then there is an allen, followed by a T60 Torx. The allen and T60 are, from most reports, a real Bee hatch to deal with, and often require cheater bars in the 3 foot and longer range.

The OFA has a roll pin in it for alignment, so you have to get things loose enough to turn it. This would be a good time to replace the three o-rings.

The earlier vertical mount filter OFAs aren't so bad, you can remove the filter, unscrew the threaded filter adapter and get the motor mount bolt out that way.

Sorry, it's a '91, 4L. It is a hex head.

I just checked and it looks like there is a nut that will allow removing just the threaded part of the adapter. I didn't even notice that. I will give it a try tomorrow. You're knowledge is astounding and I really appreciate you sharing it.