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New Water pump...which one?

S

solomon7

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Portland OR
96 XJ 4.0 Aw4 155,000.
I ve replaced everything (hoses, full flush, Tstat is just over a year old, CSF 2 row rad, new cap with radiator, ZJ HD fan clutch a couple weeks ago etc.)else except the pump, and I'm still sitting around 220 consistently regardless of conditions.Unless my beat up AC condenser os blocking more than I think,
I can only assume that after 150K+ miles that the pump's blades are wearing out. No visible leaks at weep holes, so bearings are fine (?)

E fan kicks on a 218-220 on trhe gauge so the gauge is fairly accurate it seems, though it takes longer to drop the temp than it used to. I'm guessing pump is just not pushing fluid like it used to and is slowly dying.

Should I get an OEM style one or a Flowkooler?
I've heard OEMs work fine but don't know which one to get.

Also, before I pull the trigger, is there anything else I've overlooked that could be the culprit?
 
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PS> Before this recent issue my gauge has NEVER gone over 210 in the 3 years I've owned it except when my block mount bracket blew and the mech fan was unable to turn. Other than that time and when I use AC, there were times I wondered if the aux. fan even worked. Now it kicks on daily so something's going on and it's not just increased ambient temp due to summertime.
 
I recently installed a Flowkooler waterpump along with the CSF 2-row radiator, HD ZJ fan clutch and a new thermostat and it runs consistantly under 210. I can't say if it was just the water pump or the combination of things, but the pump is still going strong after two weeks.
 
How long ago did the CSF 2-core get installed? Ever run a HD radiator cleaner through it?

Is the ZJ HD fan clutch working--you should be able to hear it.

Does it run hot around town or highway, or both. You said all the time, just want to clarify.

Do you adjust your mixture to 30/70--30 ethylene glycol/70 distilled water--late Spring through early Fall?

As for pumps--buy NEW, never reman. GMB has a good rep, made in Japan. NAPA for me most anytime--fewer comebacks than any other parts line.
 
Hey joe. the clutch definitely works. Whirrrrr!
Radiator was installed last Sept/Oct
Haven't run a HD flush just the Prestone Shorty a week before install.
No goo. Which HD flush anyways? (I did fill with half tap half distilled. duh)

It runs fine at speed. It's just at idle, in traffic, or low speed i.e. wheelin'.
I almost wonder if my condenser is restricting airflow, but it's been as banged up as it is now since I got it and it's never been an issue. AC blows COLD.

I'm still runnin' a 50/50. Maybe fill 30/70 and test before replacing? I've always run 50/50 in it before with no probs like this even when it spike to triple digits here last year.
the pump IS pretty old though.....thoughts?
 
Four years is about the life expectancy of a pump. Depending on the care the cooling system has received, the quality of the pump, impeller erosion can be non-existent or severe.

I would get a fin straightener and go after the condenser and radiator. Tough to get down in their with a hose to blast the garbage BACK towards the grill, but that is the best way to go. Fin straightener: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...r&x=0&y=0&ih=9_3_4_0_0_0_0_0_0_1.53_222&fsc=5

The 50/50 is a year-round compromise. Water is a very efficient coolant, ethylene glycol is NOT. Some people recommend as little as 10/90 in the Summer. You can dump your 50/50 into a bucket, then remove some and add distilled water to change the mix without having to go all new. That is how I adjust mine twice a year. Coolant tester: http://www.amazon.com/ANTI-FREEZE-T...9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1282095987&sr=1-19

Prestone Radiator Cleaner, put it in drive 3-6 hours, can be over several days, it will remove deposits the quick flush stuff will never touch.
 
You can tell which pump rotation by where the belt runs on the pulley. Reverse is when the pulley is driven by the smooth side of the belt as the harmonic balancer is driven by the grooved side. All accessories that run on the grooved side are the same direction as the Harmonic Balancer.

BTW: I have FlowKool on my 90 that has been there for over 100K miles. I went through 3 pumps prior to the FlowKool, all with seal failures.
 
Mine runs on the smooth side so it's reverse then right?
How come all the ones I'm finding say "standard"?
Is standard actually reverse?
I'm confused and dont' want to get the wrong one, but all the ones the parts counters come up with say standard.????
 
Like was said before:

It's about time for a new pump anyway. Might as well change it now BEFORE it goes bad.

And yes water is more efficient at heat transfer than glycol.

That being said I bought the Flowkooler because they claim a %20 increase in flow at idle over a stock unit. And that's where you need it most.

On hot days if I'm at a fast food drive thru, the fan will kick on if I'm there for 5 minutes or more idling..... HTH.
 
See on Summit's site teh Flowkooer says reverse rotation.

All the others even NAPA say standard, but the parts guys have sold lots and had no probs. Lazy info in their system?
 
None of the "correct" pumps at NAPA Schucks or Baxter's have an R and they all say standard, but the parts guys say they've sold lots and never had problems.
The ONLY pump I find that says reverse rotation is the Flowkooler.
What gives. My balancer runs on the grooved side of the belt and my water pump runs on the smooth side, so that means it's reverse, right?
Why do all the parts stores only have standard no R on any of their pumps (they checked)?
I'm confused. thoughts?
 
NAPA has been porking around with their website AGAIN.

Sometime back they restricted access to the decent part of their website--the PRO parts lookup--unless you open an account with them. Just recently they have changed again--use to be you looked up an application/part and it would give you the basics and price, then you clicked again and it would give you the DETAILS--and the pumps for the 4.0 that REQUIRE CCW rotation were annotated as such.

Why can't people stop IMPROVING things that don't need it. I emailed the fools and chewed some buttski over that pump description.
 
NAPA TFW 42002 says REVERSE for rotation, so thinking the 42004 is wrong--EVEN THOUGH BOTH show up for my 1990 4.0 on their website. The 42002 is SPECIFIED for serpentine belt and reverse rotation applications.

I'm certain that it is the TFW 42002 that you need.

Good luck.
 
Well I changed ou the pump. It was teh 42004 that NAPA said not the 42002. Pulley mounts were totally diffefent.

It's only been a day or 2 but it alrady seems like it is running a lot cooler.
Let it idle in a metal shed for 30 minutes in teh sun yesterday. E fan didn't even come on once, and temp never went over 195-200!
NOW when I rev up the HD fan the temp actually drops a bit!

Water pump was actually weeping, just couldn;t see it till we pulled the steering pump off. Impellers were hardly intact too.
The block looked nice and clean inside around #1.

Filled it up with 50/50 even though I wanted to go 30/70 per joe peter's rec..
I figured the mix would be a control. No way to tell if the pump helped If I change the ratio at the same time ya know?

So now I've got new pump, stat, stat housing,hoses, radiator, cap, and fluid. If this thing gets warm like it did before again:gonnablow

Thanks everyone for helping with this!! I"m gonna go drive in the hills now!
 
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