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Wheel bearing/ hub assembly replacement

L

LucasE

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Mill Creek, Washington
I have a 99 jeep cherokee and i noticed that the front drivers wheel bearing was making grinding noise so i manged to pull the brake caliper off and disconnected the front driveline., I spun the hub assembly by hand and i heard a grinding noise again. At this point i have the three 13mm bolts from the back side out but my question is do i have to remove the axel nut and if so what size is it? Any and all advice is appreciated.
 
Though the Go Jeep site is good, I think this write up shows a better way of freeing up the unit bearing

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm

This method works really nice. No pounding on the unit bearing bolts. Let physics help you...



unitb-1.jpg
 
The axle nut is 36mm. Easiest way to get it off(It has to come off) is to remove the center cap from the rim, put the tire back on, set it on the ground, set the E-brake and chock the tires, put a BIG breaker bar on it and step on it.

When you do get the unit bearing off, cover the contact area with anti-seize before you re-install it. It'll save you some time 'next time it has to come off.

Also, while you have the whole thing apart, you might want to spend 15.00 and throw a new U-joint on the shaft while you have it apart.
 
Ivan said:
Though the Go Jeep site is good, I think this write up shows a better way of freeing up the unit bearing

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm

This method works really nice. No pounding on the unit bearing bolts. Let physics help you...



unitb-1.jpg
Click to expand...
This method should only be used if you're replacing the bearing, you're pushing through the rolling elements. Same risk as using a slide hammer on the wheel flange studs.

I prefer using a an extension on a socket braces against the inner C. This method pushes against the hub casting and the outer race which is what's actually being held in place. Won't damage the bearing this way.
 
ChiXJeff said:
This method should only be used if you're replacing the bearing, you're pushing through the rolling elements. Same risk as using a slide hammer on the wheel flange studs.
Click to expand...

I was under the impression that as long as you left the axle shaft bolted in place until you pushed the hub out, you weren't putting any more stress on it than normal use and it could be safely reused. Am I mistaken?
 
If you're replacing the bearing, getting a little enthusiastic with a 4lb hand sledge on the back of the wheel mounting flange works great and is good stress relief after fighting the hub bolts. If you aren't, the extension + socket trick works, or a sacrificial socket on the hub bolt and the 4lb hand sledge again.

PS you can junk that dust plate that's mounted behind the unit bearing, they excel at rusting out, collecting junk and holding it against your brakes, getting bent, and dragging on the rotor.

EDIT: Shorty - considered that, but remember you're whacking directly on the bearings basically, vs shocks being applied to the bearings via the tire in normal use. I wouldn't do it.
 
oops-- not the slide hammer part-- just the bolt "press" between the axle and hub part. DEFINITELY wouldn't use the slide hammer on a salvageable bearing.
 
You might not have the shock load that a sledge hammer would deliver, but if you push against the yoke, you're still forcing through the rolling elements.

I might add that I've used the extension against a hub bolt (not the yoke,) twice on my Dodge front D60. Works quite nicely.
 
now that you mention it, I was pushing against the bolt too-- seemed like a good way to keep things from sliding out and damaging the inner seal any more than necessary.
 
hey everyone i got it out and all i used was some pb blaster between the hub and its housing and it came out with out fighting me at all. i did have to use a 3' cheater bar to loosen the axel nut though. Thanks again for all the help. i also replaced the rotors and pads while there.
 
tbburg said:
The axle nut is 36mm. Easiest way to get it off(It has to come off) is to remove the center cap from the rim, put the tire back on, set it on the ground, set the E-brake and chock the tires, put a BIG breaker bar on it and step on it.

When you do get the unit bearing off, cover the contact area with anti-seize before you re-install it. It'll save you some time 'next time it has to come off.

Also, while you have the whole thing apart, you might want to spend 15.00 and throw a new U-joint on the shaft while you have it apart.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna have to disagree with you. Easiest way to get it off is a high torque impact gun :D
 
xCWolf said:
I'm gonna have to disagree with you. Easiest way to get it off is a high torque impact gun :D
Click to expand...
Way to bring back a dead thread. And not everyone has an impact gun, compressor etc.
 
Johnnie Walker said:
Way to bring back a dead thread. And not everyone has an impact gun, compressor etc.
Click to expand...



Holy thread necromancy Batman!

Oh, I agree not everyone has a impact gun also sometimes you have to make a repair on a trail so knowing how get 'er done old school is handy. However I would add the option of electric cordless impact gun, I got one from Lowes last year and it is a beast at breaking lose stuff my air impact struggled with. I never considered one before because I thought the battery wouldn't last and wouldn't have the torque but the Kolbalt 24 volt got through the replacing all the ball joints on the xj with one charge, used the hand tools for most of the work however there was a lot the impact gun made short work of.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I built this many years ago for doing trail repairs. You can use it with a breaker bar or a hammer!
P1080495_zpsla6dhudd.jpg

P1080494_zpsrnidbkzq.jpg
 
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