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Teraflex Upper FlexArms dilemma

P

Peregrine

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Highlands Ranch
Recently purchased a set of Teraflex upper FlexArm control arms to replace my stock uppers.

Bolts are 10mm on the front/rear of my current UCA. I measured these flex joints and they require a 7/16" bolt at the frame side, which I don't believe is stock size on any TJ/XJ/ZJ...am I wrong? (front is 10mm...same as current) Teraflex claims that I can run the stock 10mm bolt without issues as long as the bolt it tighened to spec. This doesn't sound like a good idea to me. Noise from the slop between the flex joint and bolt right? I have the option of drilling a 7/16" hole and everything should be tight. Problem is that I would rather not enlarge the hole as someday I may change arms...most likely one with a 10mm hole since that seems to be the stock size.

I know that I could always install with the 10mm...see how it does, and drill accordingly if it doesn't. Just trying to get some ideas/opinions as time for the jeep is not easy to come by these days!

Any advice on this matter? Anyone running these arms using the stock bolt with no problems?

Thanks
 
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I wouldn't run the 10mm bolt. You're likely to wallow out the frame side mount holes, or shear off the bolt at an inconvenient time.

Drill out the factory holes. If you ever decide to go back, use some weld washers.
 
Drill it out. Even though it is only 1.1 mm over. The torque put on that front axle will move that bolt. No matter how tight it is, its only a 10mm bolt so you cant even torque it that tight... You'll probably see your axle rotate forward and backwards slightly when you go from drive to reverse and back. And at about 8 inches of seperation between the upper and lower control arms, you could actually have quite a few degrees in caster change when that bolt moves around.
 
since were on bolt/hole sizes here, ive got alot of noise coming from my homebrew longarms. could this be because the holes i drilled in the brackets are a tad bigger then they should be?

or is there just that much play in heim joints?

-Nick
 
Going to go ahead and drill out the frame holes. The holes will be drilled in my drop brackets so I figure if I ever need to reverse this I could always just buy more drop brackets or better yet, go long arm. (or use welded washers like mentioned)

I did some double checking/measuring and the size difference is larger than originally thought. Almost 2mm difference. That would scare me too much to even attempt to use the 10mm bolt in these. Teraflex makes quality products, but their lack of instructions/tech support could use some help I guess.

Thanks everyone.
 
Peregrine said:
Going to go ahead and drill out the frame holes. The holes will be drilled in my drop brackets so I figure if I ever need to reverse this I could always just buy more drop brackets or better yet, go long arm. (or use welded washers like mentioned)

I did some double checking/measuring and the size difference is larger than originally thought. Almost 2mm difference. That would scare me too much to even attempt to use the 10mm bolt in these. Teraflex makes quality products, but their lack of instructions/tech support could use some help I guess.

Thanks everyone.
Click to expand...

Why doesn't teraflex use the stock bolt sizes like every other manufacturer? I never had to drill out any of my stock holes for the godzillion different setups I ran, on both my TJ and XJ.
 
muddeprived said:
Why doesn't teraflex use the stock bolt sizes like every other manufacturer? I never had to drill out any of my stock holes for the godzillion different setups I ran, on both my TJ and XJ.
Click to expand...

All I can think of is strength...but how many people have sheared that 10mm frame bolt? After all the searching I have done to figure this out, I have only read a couple. Seems unnecessary to me, but I guess I have to do it if I want to run them.
 
How about just replacing the bushing sleeves to 10mm ID?
 
It is a flex joint (like a johnny joint) and I don't see a replacement (ball center thing) for a 10mm version. I have never rebuilt one of these types of joints but all they have to offer is 7/16" for the upper and 9/16" for the lowers. Maybe another brand would work but I don't know anything about the rebuild...guess something I should learn fairly soon ehh?
 
I am amazed by the lack of information on the internet or people out there running these arms. They might be used a bunch but just can't find information anywhere...and I have searched high and low. Any feedback on their quality? I have always heard good things about Teraflex in the past. Aside from being really freakin expensive (I got a great deal on these) they look to be beefy as hell and quality components. I bought them as I needed an arm to adjust shorter than stock length (14.xx") for my drop brackets and most aftermarket start at 15.25" and up. Rusty would have made me custom arms but I found these first and couldn't pass up the deal. Any other input on these arms?
http://www.quadratec.com/products/1...utm_medium=compshop&utm_source=googlemerchant
 
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Did you really pay $300 for those arms? WOW!


I don't think there's enough exposure on Teraflex's new style control arms, not to mention the prices on their arms aren't exactly affordable to most jeepers too.. Everyone is used to seeing their old style, which swiveled in the middle where it was adjusted. These weren't the best design. Also teraflex put out a long arm kit that used stock uppers so this was one weird-ass design and turned people away, including myself. I love their coil spacers though LOL. Can't get those wrong.

From what I can see on their new style arms, they look pretty nice, especially with rubber bushings at one end for the lowers.

Are you running less than the recommend lift for the drop brackets? i ran DB's with 4" lift but needed my stock uppers to be 14.5" so I had Andy at IronMan4x4fab make me some upper arms. He used solid steel with neat flexy poly bushings at one end and adjustable for $124 shipped. It was a good deal IMO. He makes good stuff. He'll fab up the arms to your specifications.

http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Jeep_XJ_Control_Arms/XJ_FUCA%28F%29.html

And for a little more money, you get LIFETIME arms with currie joints.

http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Jeep_XJ_Control_Arms/XJ_HDUCA.html
 
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Oh no...I bought them very slightly used. $100. They still look new. I looked at Ironman and was seriously considering the standard adj uppers from him. I was just about to pull that trigger when I came across this deal on a local board.

I am sitting at 5" right now with the RE fixed lowers. (previously 5.5" before adding BPI bumpers recently) Everything lines up great since the DB's. The tires ride/stuff perfectly center in the wheel wells, coils don't bow...but caster is only 2.5 degrees...just want to correct that a bit. Looks like I will only be able to get another 1.5 degrees or so out of these uppers...but that is better than nothing. It likes to wander a bit, but still very tolerable. I am hoping the small adjustment will do the trick.
 
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Peregrine said:
Oh no...I bought them very slightly used. $100. They still look new. I looked at Ironman and was seriously considering the standard adj uppers from him. I was just about to pull that trigger when I came across this deal on a local board.

I am sitting at 5" right now with the RE fixed lowers. (previously 5.5" before adding BPI bumpers recently) Everything lines up great since the DB's. The tires stuff perfectly in the wheel wells, coils don't bow...but caster is only 2.5 degrees...just want to correct that a bit. Looks like I will only be able to get another 1.5 degrees or so out of these uppers...but that is better than nothing. It likes to wander a bit, but still very tolerable. I am hoping the small adjustment will do the trick.
Click to expand...

You don't have enough adjustment in the lower frame slots to get a little more caster? i ran RC's adjustable flex arms down there and got my caster pretty close to stock with both adjustable uppers and lowers but ran into a few issues at 4" that had me swap em out for long arms instead.
 
muddeprived said:
You don't have enough adjustment in the lower frame slots to get a little more caster? i ran RC's adjustable flex arms down there and got my caster pretty close to stock with both adjustable uppers and lowers but ran into a few issues at 4" that had me swap em out for long arms instead.
Click to expand...
I tried to push the LCA as far as possible but ran out of thread in the alignment shoe bolt. I am actually out of budget on the jeep so I wish that would have worked! there is always something, right? I figure that if the shorter arm doesn't work for me...put em back to stock length and deal with it. At the worst...I have much stronger uca than previously.
 
Tera-flex has never been popular,to many weird designs.Their early arms were total junk,haven't seen much to change this.Why noy sell the arms and get some good ones!
 
That was one of my thoughts...but now you need to tell me what a good one is.

RE too long and no custom, Rusty's-ehh maybe but reputation keeps me away, Rokmen-$$$, JKS-want em but $$$, RC-no thanks, Currie-$$$.

I have been an RE guy for a while and haven't run much else. These seem like decent arms, but as I mentioned, I don't know anything about terraflex. They have a popular BB for XJ's and my buddies TJ runs a Teraflex lift with no issues, other than that, I know nothing!
 
Peregrine said:
That was one of my thoughts...but now you need to tell me what a good one is.

RE too long and no custom, Rusty's-ehh maybe but reputation keeps me away, Rokmen-$$$, JKS-want em but $$$, RC-no thanks, Currie-$$$.

I have been an RE guy for a while and haven't run much else. These seem like decent arms, but as I mentioned, I don't know anything about terraflex. They have a popular BB for XJ's and my buddies TJ runs a Teraflex lift with no issues, other than that, I know nothing!
Click to expand...

Trust me on this, give Andy a call at ironman4x4fab.com if you want different arms. Tell him what you need and he will make it for you, plus save you money.



But before you open the wallet try modifying your adjustment shoes. You can cut off those short bolts, punch out the head through the holes and add longer bolts if you need to. Add washers in between the shoe backplate and control arm bracket and tighten it up. Then you are done. Alot of guys told me they've done that and I should have when I broke my shoes but bought new one for $60 at the dealership. Stupid me. I have the two stock alignment shoes here if you want to use them to modify. I am on long arms so I have no need for em. Feel free to ask. :)
 
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