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radiaor woes... help

xjwisconsin

xjwisconsin

NAXJA Forum User
Location
sturgeon bay, wisconsin
had a leak in my pressure tank... so I got a new one... then the lower passenger side corner of my radiator started leaking... so im thinking of getting a new one. oh I also have an aftermarket fan from nappa rigged to a manual switch... so Im thinking of getting a new radiator instead of dicking around with the old one... any suggestions

88 chero cheif 4.0 thanks
 
Agreed. Repairing an old radiator is spending good money after bad.
 
If you are going to indeed replace the radiator, I would suggest it is a good time to replace idler bearings, pumps, hoses, belts, possibly water pump, thermostat, and other things as well. You are going to have the time consuming parts out of the way to do the radiator.
 
If you're going to pop for a new rad, you may consider converting to the open system. Easier to refill, no bottle to pop again.
 
Converting to an open system is a waste of money, and if the closed is not causing problems, why change it? If the closed system is causing problems, do a waterpump, flush, radiator thermostat, and new hoses (if nesessary) and after you burp it, it will work fine. I still have my closed and i love it.
 
88XJSport said:
Converting to an open system is a waste of money, and if the closed is not causing problems, why change it? If the closed system is causing problems, do a waterpump, flush, radiator thermostat, and new hoses (if nesessary) and after you burp it, it will work fine. I still have my closed and i love it.
Click to expand...

Personally, I think paying $40 for a new plastic bottle every 1-2 years is a waste of money. When I replaced my radiator, I just ordered a radiator for a 1992 model, ditched the pos coolant bottle and the heater vacumn valve. The open system runs at a higher pressure so burping is far less critical and its less likely to boil over.

I know there are many vocal folks here advocating staying with the closed system, but for me it was cheaper to switch to the open system because I avoided buying yet another plastic time bomb. I also did the water pump, hoses, and backflushed the heater core at the same time.
 
Hi,
I am at the point of replacing my water pump and I am going to be doing a full system upgrade as a result. Here's my parts list. Please offer suggestions, if any of you have experience with these components. My XJ is a '94 COP model with just over 60K.

*Modine radiator
*Flowkooler pump
*Flex-a-lite dual electric fan set-up. Is there something better?
*Evens NPG coolant-Waterless
*Thermostat,hoses,serp.belt, low pressure cap.

Am I overlooking anything? I'll be keeping this'n long term (especially if I can get the MPG up) and I can afford to lavish it with top-notch parts, as it's my "company vehicle".

Thanks for your help, fellow Jeepers,
crusTodd
 
crusTodd said:
Hi,
I am at the point of replacing my water pump and I am going to be doing a full system upgrade as a result. Here's my parts list. Please offer suggestions, if any of you have experience with these components. My XJ is a '94 COP model with just over 60K.
*Modine radiator
*Flowkooler pump
*Flex-a-lite dual electric fan set-up. Is there something better?
*Evens NPG coolant-Waterless
*Thermostat,hoses,serp.belt, low pressure cap.
Am I overlooking anything? I'll be keeping this'n long term (especially if I can get the MPG up) and I can afford to lavish it with top-notch parts, as it's my "company vehicle".
Thanks for your help, fellow Jeepers, crusTodd
Click to expand...
Why bother with an overpriced water pump, just get a NEW one, not a rebuilt.
Whats the 'low pressure cap' mean, the system is made to run at 16lbs pressure. Most that swap to dual electrics swap back in short order once the warm season comes around.
 
lawsoncl said:
Personally, I think paying $40 for a new plastic bottle every 1-2 years is a waste of money. When I replaced my radiator, I just ordered a radiator for a 1992 model, ditched the pos coolant bottle and the heater vacumn valve. The open system runs at a higher pressure so burping is far less critical and its less likely to boil over.

I know there are many vocal folks here advocating staying with the closed system, but for me it was cheaper to switch to the open system because I avoided buying yet another plastic time bomb. I also did the water pump, hoses, and backflushed the heater core at the same time.
Click to expand...

Insanity, don't use plastic, get a metal surge tank with a standard cap on it. Just do a search on here for 'surge tanks', a bunch of links will show up in various forums.
 
If you have to pop for a new radiator, the marginal extra cost to convert is not, IMO, a waste.

My '88 still has the closed system and, for the most part, it works just fine. I wouldn't suggest changing it out just for the sake of it, but when my rad goes out, it's getting the conversion.
 
The conversion IS a waste, no matter how you slice it.

My plastic bottle is going on 5 years now....still holding strong.

Anyway.....for an 88 it is time to replace the rad.

Rev
 
lawsoncl said:
Personally, I think paying $40 for a new plastic bottle every 1-2 years is a waste of money.
Click to expand...

Personally my 88 is on its 2nd bottle in the 18 years of its life, and that bottle is ~8 yrs old. If its taken care of, it wont boil over.
 
One could argue that a high output water pump delivers less cooling because the cooolant spends less time in the radiator. I just rpeaced my warn out pump with a new one from NAPA for $45. It works fine,
 
88XJSport said:
Personally my 88 is on its 2nd bottle in the 18 years of its life, and that bottle is ~8 yrs old. If its taken care of, it wont boil over.
Click to expand...
I went through three of them in 4 years. The first one split shortly after I bought the MJ used. The second one, from Quadratech split the first time it got down to -15*F. The third one, from the dealer kept popping the cap loose and boiling over. So just how do you "take care" of the bottle so it doesn't fail?

I still fail to see how it was a waste. The radiator was leaking and needed replacement and converting was cheaper. Yeah I could have sprung for a metal surge tank and kept the closed setup, but that was more money. Besides, running the system at 16psi versus 6psi give me more headroom for oevrheating before I boil the coolant (265*F versus 230*F as I recall).
 
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