Pattern Interpretation

I know there's been a ton of these threads in the past weeks but I guess I'm going to have to ask for approval before I bolt it all back together.

I'm trying to hurry and get this thing put together before the sun goes down...

I feel like if anything it may need a small bit more on the pinion depth shim stack.

The way it sits now with the following pattern.
Pinion Depth shim stack - .050"
Preload shim stack - .073"
NRGS - .040"
RGS - .051"
Backlash - .009"
Pinion Preload - .30 in/lbs

What do I need to do from here? More pinion depth or bolt it all back together?




Again, sorry for starting another thread but I'm in a hurry. :flame:

What axle?Backlash seems high,same with pinion pre-load.

HP Dana 30. I was using specs from Billa Vista. 10-30in/lbs on pre-load. .008"-.013" on backlash. and I misread my hand writing, the preload is 20. (New Bearings)

I would like to see the coast side as well. Also preload on a HP D30 should be 10-15 inch lbs. with new bearings....and that's without the seal. Shims dont matter as long as its what ya need. Backlash for that axle is also between .006" and .010"

To me the pattern is close but I need to see the opposite side before determining what you need to do. Also what are you doing to set your bearing pre-load on the carrier bearings? Case Spreader?

Coast side is towards the heel and top. I'm not too worried about it. I don't have a picture of it and I've put the cover back on for the night.

Where are you getting your specs for pre-load? This came straight from a Dana Spicer manual.

PINION BEARING AND DIFFERENTIAL BEARING
PRELOAD SPECIFICATION
Torque to Rotate Drive Pinion Only (New bearings only) - 20-40 inch/pounds

My backlash is .009 (In spec either way)

I use 6 good whacks with a 3lb mallet for carrier pre-load.

You got your first set-up broke in yet?

That pattern looks great and the rest is acceptable. Looks like a good job!

jeeperjohn said:

That pattern looks great and the rest is acceptable. Looks like a good job!

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Thanks. I guess I'll start putting seals in when I get home. It only took 12 different attempts to get that pattern. lol

Aight, She's about to get new bearings and some seals.

lowrange2 said:

Thanks. I guess I'll start putting seals in when I get home. It only took 12 different attempts to get that pattern. lol

Click to expand...

That's pretty normal for D30. That's why it costs alot to get one regeared.

jeeperjohn said:

That's pretty normal for D30. That's why it costs alot to get one regeared.

Click to expand...

The gears, as far as I can tell, are fine. But if my lock-rite keeps acting up they won't be... I have terrible luck when it comes to stuff like that.

In 2wd, driving in a straight line it does fine, as it should. While turning to the right the locker seems to be ratcheting like it should. Slightly louder than I remember but it's
ratcheting. While turning to the left the locker seems to want to grab, load up and POP free. Very loud and violently. The only difference that I can think of that may make a difference is that I'm using a different carrier now than I was before. (Keep in mind I had this problem with the old carrier also)

The pins and springs in the locker are brand new. I plan to pull the cover off tomorrow and make sure they are seated properly and not pushing apart too much.

When I pulled all of it apart to install my gears I had to replace the springs and pins. The pins were sheared. I thought I'd fixed this problem with the new pins and springs...

On visual inspection, before and after install, the lock-rite looks great. Everything went together properly. I used the same thrust washers as I had in it before when it worked fine. (I was having this problem about six months before I did the gears. Installed the locker initially with no problems 2 years ago. Worked fine for a year and a half. It started acting up. The jeep sat for 6 months due to this problem and now I've replaced EVERYTHING and it's still doing it.)

AHHHH!!!

I thought of something else that's different from the old set-up. I used a new cross shaft... The cross shaft that came with the locker had a flat spot on either side. The new one looks like a standard hardened cross shaft. I wonder if that could possible make a difference.

Also, just to verify that it was the lock, I lifted one of the front tires off the ground and tried to turn it with the Jeep off and not moving. It did catch.

You could try pulling the locker apart and swapping the drive plates from side to side. I had a lockrite in my 8.25 before and I had nothing but trouble with it.

jeeperjohn said:

You could try pulling the locker apart and swapping the drive plates from side to side. I had a lockrite in my 8.25 before and I had nothing but trouble with it.

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I switched the drive plates from side to side, lubed up the teeth with some assembly grease, I used the old cross shaft with the flat spots on the sides, cleaned EVERYTHING really well, and made sure the flat washers were on it. It worked perfectly fine like that last year then it all of a sudden started hanging up. I guess I'm going to have to start looking for a new locker... Can you run the locker without the washers as an adjustment?

lowrange2 said:

I switched the drive plates from side to side, lubed up the teeth with some assembly grease, I used the old cross shaft with the flat spots on the sides, cleaned EVERYTHING really well, and made sure the flat washers were on it. It worked perfectly fine like that last year then it all of a sudden started hanging up. I guess I'm going to have to start looking for a new locker... Can you run the locker without the washers as an adjustment?

Click to expand...

I wouldn't, it might make it slip.

I was thinking the same thing. So, there's nothing I can do other than replace the locker and hope for the best?

lowrange2 said:

I was thinking the same thing. So, there's nothing I can do other than replace the locker and hope for the best?

Click to expand...

I would get an Aussie or if you have the money, go full case locker (detroit).

Or if you have even more money get something even better ARB :yelclap:

jeeperjohn said:

I would get an Aussie or if you have the money, go full case locker (detroit).

Click to expand...

I don't too much like the idea of pheumatic devices... I think I'd rather opt for an OX. I like the mechanical cable.

I've already got a full case detroit in the back...

I plan to stick some spider gears back in the front for right now.