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fan override problems....

hello! i did this fan override http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1025399&highlight=fan+override
and now its the opposite?! when i turn the switch on, it turns the fan off and when switch is off it always runs! idk what to do...... :flamemad:
ill answer any questions about it..... oh yea, i also have a CEL now :(

Not sure about the CEL, but the relay should be wired so the normal is with the relay inactive.
Terminal 30 to factory incoming wire and terminal 87a to factory outgoing and terminal 87 should be the new wire.
 
but in the writeup it says this but idk maybe he posted it wrong? ill try it though 2morra

Relay Pin 85 - DB/PK wire coming from your PCM
Relay Pin 86 - DB/WT (ST-RUN) wire
Relay Pin 30 - Ground wire
Relay Pin 87 - DB/PK wire going to the Fan Motor Relay (in the PDC) and the ground signal wire coming from your override switch
Relay Pin 87a - May or may not exist on your relay, but is unused regardless
 
I've been running mine per this sketch, using Charles's idea, for a week now in high temps/humidity. I like fyrfytr's work (and it is clever), but I can find no flaw in the other setup. If the switch dies, the fan works like stock. If the stock wiring fries, you can still run the fan. If you a blow a fuse in one ckt, the other is still operational. It works great. It's also really easy to wire up.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244990910&postcount=41
 
It should if I read that diagram right... Leaving switch off allows the fan to operated normally, as if there's no change to the wiring. Flipping the switch to on kicks the fan on, regardless of engine temp.
 
What fyrfytr posted should work. If it doesn't, and you get a CEL, double check all of your connections- something is not wired up correctly.
 
When you cut that db/pk wire, the side connected to the PCM has to be connected to terminal 85 on the new relay, and the side from the fuse box has be connected to terminal 87 and the override switch.
 
If you haven't read my reply in the main thread yet, it sounds like you may have just wired your switch incorrectly. Since you're using it to switch a ground, everything needs to be reversed. Instead of the usual 12V+ in, 12V+ out (shared with indicator light), and 12V- for the indicator light, you need 12V- in, 12V- out (shared with indicator light), and a 12V+ hooked up to the pin that would normally be the ground for the indicator light. Additionally, an LED lighted switch will not work.

As for CharlesS/hubs97XJ wiring set-up, it is a very sound method as well. Much better than how I usually see override switches wired up. The reason I designed mine the way I did was that my goals were #1 to take advantage of the factory wiring as much as possible and #2 avoid having to run an additional heavy gauge power wire with a 40amp fuse on it. Both methods work, just different approaches to the same problem that result in the same outcome.
 
well that is probably my problem.... looks like i need a regular toggle switch!
22898d1280025659-98-high-school-dollar-drainer-s7300520.jpg
 
ok i fixed it! i got a 2 prong switch and wired it ground and relay signal! now it works awesome! (except it doesnt work when the engine is off anymore...) i wonder if i could make it do that to?
p.s. the CEL went away!!! :)
 
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