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hupo224
July 22nd, 2010, 04:42
I wanted to let my "89" thread die as it needs too....

This info should be correct:
4.0 231 aw4 d30/d35

Going to take a few photos... before I go to work and post them here.

This Jeep was a great deal and drives very very nicely. Made the 2 hour trip home last night. So here are the issues.

1. Gas gauge does not work and the fuel pump wines all the time. Previous owner said he replaced the fuel pump with an oem one recently. :shrugs:

2. Yesterday before I picked it up the Speedometer/Odometer stopped working.

3. The rear d35 on the parkway would feel like its jerking violently (forward and backwards). Mostly when hitting bumps on the road but it did happen when driving on smooth highway.

4. "Gen" light is on.


Pictures:

http://imgur.com/n4nXg.jpghttp://imgur.com/F5Btd.jpghttp://imgur.com/ENyAH.jpghttp://imgur.com/j0PPc.jpg

Thanks for looking guys. Will post an engine shot after work. See yas.

Begster
July 22nd, 2010, 04:52
That is a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle

sjx40250
July 22nd, 2010, 10:07
Looks like you have automatic undercoating feature!

bchulett
July 22nd, 2010, 11:42
Nice muffler

frontman
July 22nd, 2010, 12:11
my fuel pump did that also. took a year before it finaly died. After i installed the new one it stopped making the noise.

joe_peters
July 22nd, 2010, 13:27
PEOPLE, PEOPLE, PEOPLE--basics? We got the year, not much else.

hupo224
July 22nd, 2010, 13:41
That is a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle

Really? Awesome. But sucks that I get that jerking from the rear. Going to was the jeep today and shake some things down.

Looks like you have automatic undercoating feature!

Normal with early 90's?

Nice muffler
It's all shiny and stuffs

my fuel pump did that also. took a year before it finaly died. After i installed the new one it stopped making the noise.
Would this have to do with my dead fuel gauge?

PEOPLE, PEOPLE, PEOPLE--basics? We got the year, not much else.

It's a sport edition. What things would you like to know? I'll get that info when I go outside in a few..

hupo224
July 22nd, 2010, 14:16
Anybody know how to open the hood without the cable? I broke the hood opener...

joe_peters
July 22nd, 2010, 14:22
It's a sport edition. What things would you like to know? I'll get that info when I go outside in a few..

Crap--I posted in the wrong thread!

Not to let a total screw up go to waste:

Noisy fuel pumps: if the little rubber piece at the foot of the fuel pump assembly isn't locked into its receptacle in the tank, it will make the pump noisy. If the rubber fuel line between the top of the pump and the tank flange has started leaking--cracks or loose clamps--it will make the pump noisy. If the white ceramic ballast resistor on the driver's side fenderwell has been bypassed the pump may be nosier.

As the PO has been in there recently, I would pull the pump assembly and start there. While you have it out you can test the sending unit and check the float for saturation.

Good luck.

hupo224
July 22nd, 2010, 14:40
Crap--I posted in the wrong thread!

Not to let a total screw up go to waste:

Noisy fuel pumps: if the little rubber piece at the foot of the fuel pump assembly isn't locked into its receptacle in the tank, it will make the pump noisy. If the rubber fuel line between the top of the pump and the tank flange has started leaking--cracks or loose clamps--it will make the pump noisy. If the white ceramic ballast resistor on the driver's side fenderwell has been bypassed the pump may be nosier.

As the PO has been in there recently, I would pull the pump assembly and start there. While you have it out you can test the sending unit and check the float for saturation.

Good luck.

Thank you. I got the hood open with vice grips. Trying to get the stereo to power on soon as well. (clarion head unit). I'm going to get the creeper out and see what I can find. Going to check fuses too. To rule those out for the non working stereo, gas gauge and speed/odometer. Anyone know what color my xj is?

joe_peters
July 22nd, 2010, 14:52
Rust colored?

Couldn't help myself! Can't actually tell from the pictures.

The instrument gauges all run off the same fuse, so I don't think that is the fuel gauge issue.

hupo224
July 22nd, 2010, 15:11
Yeah the fuse is fine. And lol I don't know it looks burgundy. Well I have some mysteries to try and solve

hupo224
July 22nd, 2010, 15:16
So nobody can help me solve some of my questions? Gen light?

joe_peters
July 22nd, 2010, 16:03
Throw a voltmeter between the battery terminals--you should get 12.5 static; 13~14.5 with the engine running.

With a new-to-me I would fully charge the battery and then load test it. While its charging would be time to clean both ends of the main cables and renew the grounds.

The 91+ have the Nippon Denso alternators regulated by the PCM. Note that the parts stores are NOTORIOUS for testing and reporting these alternators as GOOD when they are actually BAD.

hupo224
July 22nd, 2010, 19:27
What would be the proper way to test the alternator then? I'm guessing this has to do with the gen light. I'll grab a voltmeter this weekend and test my battery as well.

Wanted to make a few notes here.

That jerking I was talking about. Well...it felt like the rear was jerking the car. This happens randomly while coasting and sometimes if I floor it. The tachometer spikes (low not high) for like a second when this "jerking" happens. After driving it a little today it more felt like the engine and not the rear... my rear drive shaft was pretty solid too..

The speedometer/odometer and the "mile counter" all don't work. How can I test for what the problem is coming from? As well as the gas gauge.

Floor pans are rotted through in some areas. Going to need to cut that out and weld in new ones. (Not a priority) Going to look up how to fix rotted rockers.

Today I broke the the hood release off. Now using vice grips to pull the cable. I grounded a wire under behind the driver kick plate and it fixed the clock. I removed that god awful door buzzer. And some how magically while driving the clarion head unit turned on blasting a country cd. I then swiftly threw the cd out my window. What's funny is I got a new xj last night and my brother got his first xj last night too. He picked up a silver 2000 limited. (I got him into Cherokees after getting him out of his crap v8 zj. Tranny went on it)

Tomorrow I'm going to take more pictures. I gave her a good bath today.

hupo224
July 22nd, 2010, 19:52
Well I just took it for a quick drive. When I floor it it seems like the engine cuts out really fast and the truck just jerks. The tachometer definetly falls fast in according to each "jerk". I'm worried about the engine now. Losing hope on it. Hopefully I can figure it out and fix it. Any input please?


My tps wouldn't cause this would it? Please can someone throw something out there..

joe_peters
July 22nd, 2010, 21:24
Ok, I would definitely pull the sending unit and take a look--and here is why: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1039121

Scroll down the page to the photo, but don't let any women, children, or men of faint heart be in the room when you do it.

You need to pick one single thing and work on it until it is resolved, and I would start with seeing what condition the pump/sending unit is in, and what the inside of the tank looks like too.

hupo224
July 23rd, 2010, 04:27
I will pull the sending unit...

hupo224
July 23rd, 2010, 09:36
I noticed when I'm in park I can rev it very high and that "skip/jerk" wont happen. But yet when I'm in gear and go to floor it it does it. Then randomly when I drive. Got some work for me this weekend.

hupo224
July 23rd, 2010, 13:33
Okay. I just finally though of what I wanted to say. It "bucks". It seems to do it more in comfort mode than power mode. If I am in neutral and rev my engine it is fine. When I am in gear and go to floor it it bucks when it's just about red line. And does it when I'm on the pedal and go over bumps. (one buck though)

Picked up a charge kit for my a/c. Picked up 2 cans of seafoam for the throttle body, crank case and gas tank. Going to drop the gas tank this weekend. I put gas in it and fuel spills out whenever I come to a stop. If the gas is low enough it won't do this.

hupo224
July 23rd, 2010, 15:11
I tried charging the a/c. I put 134a connectors on but the low pressure side wasn't sucking in any 134a...

I checked it with a gauge from another hose and it goes to red and falls just above yellow in the red.

Got a compression checker and going to check the compression tomorrow.

Man I must be really annoying...

hupo224
July 23rd, 2010, 16:25
Please guys the bucking has got worse. I had to pull over because it kept doing it and the tach read 0 for 4-5 seconds then it was fine.... It spikes downward alot...

hupo224
July 23rd, 2010, 17:16
Please guys the bucking has got worse. I had to pull over because it kept doing it and the tach read 0 for 4-5 seconds then it was fine.... It spikes downward alot...

Seafoamed through the bb/throttle body/crank case/gas tank.(didn't really smoke. Only a tiny bit when I revved it) I think I may just start a new thread about the bucking.

joe_peters
July 23rd, 2010, 21:52
Ok, the bucking could be intermittent fuel, spark going to ground, hell, it could even be related to the transmission and its electronic controls.

It may just be me, but it seems like you are shotgunning and not making much headway.

It could insufficient fuel pressure or fuel volume. It could be the coil, spark plugs, cap, rotor, or plug wires, it could be a worn distributor. It could be a CAT that is clogging up, or a restricted exhaust--all of these things will cause similar issues.

Pick a system and start testing.

techno1154
July 24th, 2010, 04:24
Pick a system and start testing.

Joe is correct. Choose one item at a time and work at it until you are satisfied then on to another. If you have and 8 to 5 job, it could a month long project or just set aside a week to dedicate to the XJ full time with daily trips to the JY and part store.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 04:35
Thank you guys. Dropping the tank today.

87manche
July 24th, 2010, 07:18
bucking under load and no tach signal sounds like an ignition problem. That tach is the giveaway. Check the motor mounts and the wire harness that runs to the CPS, drivers side, behind the manifolds.
It's possible that the motor is rocking under load and the CPS is shorting out on the manifold. it's also possible that the CPS is loose/bad. it may also be a loose ground in the engine bay.
Given the tach dropping to 0 it's very likely ignition related, happening under hard load or when you hit bumps screams to me a loose connection/wire.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 07:52
Okay I will look among these things as well. Today driving it was really bad. I'm guessing it's because the fuel level was really low. It happened on just about every bump. The tach would drop to 0 while driving and I have to hit the gas to get it to jump back up. If I don't touch the peddle it would stall.

87manche
July 24th, 2010, 08:23
Okay I will look among these things as well. Today driving it was really bad. I'm guessing it's because the fuel level was really low. It happened on just about every bump. The tach would drop to 0 while driving and I have to hit the gas to get it to jump back up. If I don't touch the peddle it would stall.

an ignition problem is unrelated to the fuel level in the tank.

I would suggest not driving it until you get this sorted out, or you're going to end up on the side of the road somewhere.

Start with a good inspection of the engine bay harness, clean all of the grounds and make sure they're solidly connected.

Pull and push on all the connectors you can find with the engine running, pay particular attention to the ones going to the ICM on the passenger fender and the ones going to the CPS.
Check the TPS with a multimeter.

it's possible that this is fuel related, but if it were simply running out of fuel the tach would still indicate engine RPM until the motor stopped spinning. An instant drop to 0 on the tach usually indicates that the PCM is not receiving crank position signals, or the ICM has failed in some fashion and is not firing the spark plugs. The tach gets it's RPM signal from the ICM.

Do you own a multimeter and do you know how to use it's basic functions?

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 08:36
an ignition problem is unrelated to the fuel level in the tank.

I would suggest not driving it until you get this sorted out, or you're going to end up on the side of the road somewhere.

Start with a good inspection of the engine bay harness, clean all of the grounds and make sure they're solidly connected.

Pull and push on all the connectors you can find with the engine running, pay particular attention to the ones going to the ICM on the passenger fender and the ones going to the CPS.
Check the TPS with a multimeter.

it's possible that this is fuel related, but if it were simply running out of fuel the tach would still indicate engine RPM until the motor stopped spinning. An instant drop to 0 on the tach usually indicates that the PCM is not receiving crank position signals, or the ICM has failed in some fashion and is not firing the spark plugs. The tach gets it's RPM signal from the ICM.

Do you own a multimeter and do you know how to use it's basic functions?

Forgot to note that when it does buck sometimes it doesnt dropt o 0 it drops about 500-1500 rpms really quickly. When I hit the bumps it would buck sometimes and most of the time would drop to 0 until I hit the pedal. I'm going to check everything. We don't have a multimeter here. My neighbor may however. I sort of know how to read it. I know it can switch between ohms and other settings.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 08:38
Also when I go to the junkyard. What year cherokees/jeep do I look for with the same pump/sender/assembly? Thank you.

My dad has an a/c manifold gauge. Do I need anything else to extract the old coolant? I have a can of r134 punctured with a r134 hose.

87manche
July 24th, 2010, 09:11
get yourself a multimeter and go here:

http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/

read the first three points.
Here:
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/continuity.html
Here:
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/resistance.html
Here:
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/voltage.html

Once you're familiar with how the meter works we can start testing electrical components.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 09:31
get yourself a multimeter and go here:

http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/

read the first three points.
Here:
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/continuity.html
Here:
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/resistance.html
Here:
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/voltage.html

Once you're familiar with how the meter works we can start testing electrical components.

Thank you. I will read all of that and get to know the multimeter. Do you happen to know what year cherokees I can grab a fuel pump/sender assembly out of?

A picture I took for reference later when I reconnect everything.
http://imgur.com/dcfWg.jpg

87manche
July 24th, 2010, 09:34
For sure 91-95, possibly up to 97. My experience is mostly with 87-90 junk.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 09:48
Ah renix haha. Okay that is good. Going to pull the unit out next and see how bad it is. Then catch the jyard today.

http://imgur.com/xTR41.jpg
http://imgur.com/Wb1Q7.jpg

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 10:00
I was kind of hoping to find a lot of rust. But the pump is still brand new looking. And there is no rust inside of the gas tank. So how come the fuel pump wines, gas spills when I brake (more than half a tank I presume), fuel gauge not working and possible fuel pressure issue causing bucking. I'm stuck now.


http://imgur.com/dgb9e.jpg
http://imgur.com/k4mTz.jpg
http://imgur.com/TuHNe.jpg

kastein
July 24th, 2010, 10:09
Shoulda kept the 98/99 you had... :banghead: you clearly did not inspect this thing carefully enough AT ALL while prepping to buy it, any of these issues should have been known before you did so. This is a project vehicle not a daily driver.

91-95 are your fuel sender range. 96 the gauge sender is different.

EDIT: also, your 91 takes R-12, your R134a kit is not going to help you at all. Leave the AC the hell alone until you get it running and driving reliably anyways - prioritize your repairs.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 10:12
Shoulda kept the 98/99 you had... :banghead: you clearly did not inspect this thing carefully enough AT ALL while prepping to buy it, any of these issues should have been known before you did so. This is a project vehicle not a daily driver.

91-95 are your fuel sender range. 96 the gauge sender is different.

The 98 had many problems including the motor going on its way out. I made a smarter decision picking this vehicle as it has only a few problems. I failed inspection for 3 things. Driver window not rolling all the way down, need updated insurance card and the "leaking" fuel. Going to see if I can find a multimeter so I can test the sender. Anything I should check while I have everything out?

87manche
July 24th, 2010, 10:12
tank looks good.

Some replacement pumps are just noisy, I put an airtex in my DD aspire after the OEM one failed @100K. It's twice as noisy as the factory one, but it's gone for 12K miles without a hitch.

Regarding the fuel sender, now that you've got it out is when you need a multimeter. The fuel tank sender is just a big pot, it goes from 0-90 ohms in a renix rig, I think the chryco one is reveres and goes from 90-0 full to empty. Anyway, you need to get a meter and set it to ohms. Then put it on the sender wire and ground. When you move the sender you should get a full range of ohms from 0-90. If you have no continuity (blank display) then there's an open connection. If it's shorted and just stuck at 0 then the sending unit is bad.
See the link I gave you earlier about using the meter, find the section under resistance about testing potentiometers, the sending unit is a potentiometer and you wil get a disply similar to the one in the video.


Also, pay attention to those little lines in the white area at the top of the arm, that's the part that actually changes the resistance. Sometimes the arms get corroded and stop making contact. You can slide a piece of 600 grit sandpaper under the arms and lightly sand them to clean any corrosion off. BE CAREFUL doing this, the arms are very fragile.

The leak above a half a tank is probably the ubber o-rig under the sending unit flange. It really should be replaced everytime the sending unit is taken off. You can get a new one at the parts store for about $3 and it will seal the tank back up. Make sure tat the eding unit and flange in the tank are clean and free of rust. Rust creeps under there and makes it so the o-ring won't seal. I use a little bit of motor oil when reinstalling the sender to help keep the o-ring from tearing.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 10:14
tank looks good.

Some replacement pumps are just noisy, I put an airtex in my DD aspire after the OEM one failed @100K. It's twice as noisy as the factory one, but it's gone for 12K miles without a hitch.

Regarding the fuel sender, now that you've got it out is when you need a multimeter. The fuel tank sender is just a big pot, it goes from 0-90 ohms in a renix rig, I think the chryco one is reveres and goes from 90-0 full to empty. Anyway, you need to get a meter and set it to ohms. Then put it on the sender wire and ground. When you move the sender you should get a full range of ohms from 0-90. If you have no continuity (blank display) then there's an open connection. If it's shorted and just stuck at 0 then the sending unit is bad.
See the link I gave you earlier about using the meter, find the section under resistance about testing potentiometers, the sending unit is a potentiometer and you wil get a disply similar to the one in the video.


Also, pay attention to those little lines in the white area at the top of the arm, that's the part that actually changes the resistance. Sometimes the arms get corroded and stop making contact. You can slide a piece of 600 grit sandpaper under the arms and lightly sand them to clean any corrosion off. BE CAREFUL doing this, the arms are very fragile.

The leak above a half a tank is probably the ubber o-rig under the sending unit flange. It really should be replaced everytime the sending unit is taken off. You can get a new one at the parts store for about $3 and it will seal the tank back up. Make sure tat the eding unit and flange in the tank are clean and free of rust. Rust creeps under there and makes it so the o-ring won't seal. I use a little bit of motor oil when reinstalling the sender to help keep the o-ring from tearing.

Thank you! Off to get a meter.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 10:26
Got a small yellow multimeter with the 2 probes. It has an ohms adjuster wheel and it has. off x10 x100 x1k(ohm) 500 250 50 10 (acv) 250 10 0.5 (dcma) 2.5 10 50 250 500 (dcv)

Should I carefully move the unit under my jeep. plug it in, connect my negative battery terminal then try and test it?

Also there is no rubber seal. There is the lock ring and that is it. The lock ring is a bit rusty and the top of the fuel pump is rusty. Where the ground is on it looks bad. Not sure if it is grounding properly. Still waiting on an answer about plugging it in.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 11:03
So I plugged the pump in and turned the key on.Then I put the black wire to the black wire and the red wire to the red wire. Wherever the arm was it read "200". The needle barely moved and landed on it.

Junkyard said 50 bucks for a sending unit/ fuel pump out of a cherokee there. May just replace it. Going to sandpaper the arm carefully and check then/

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 11:13
I switched it to 1xk ohm. I cleaned the arm and I read "20" and stays there when I move the float.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 11:35
Please. I need answers. Today is the only day I have to get to the junkyard. I'll be screwed all week if I cannot go today. I tested both the red wire and blue wire. x1k read around 20 for both wires. and the other settings does not pick up anything.

kastein
July 24th, 2010, 11:45
Throw it back together and do without a fuel gauge... none of mine work right. One is screwed up and reads a half tank below where it should, another reads in reverse (full=empty, empty=full) and another randomly fluctuates from the correct value to 0. Just use your trip meter and fill up at 250 miles, once you get an idea what your gas mileage is, fill up at 17 gallons * gas mileage. The fuel leaking is the only problem you have to worry about to get it rolling.

Why do you think the motor was on its way out on the other one? Sounded fine from the videos you posted.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 12:01
Yeah I guess so... my trip meter don't work remember :P I followed all the fuel lines and they look fine. Cleaning up some wires and grounds (ceramic baluster thing). I was hoping where the fuel was leaking was ruining the fuel pressure being why it wines so loud and why I may have been bucking. I'm going to try and find a rubber seal for the hole in the tank so It stops dripping.

Well. She would often lose a lot of power and almost bog out then a huge knock comes after that then it is fine. I wanted to move on. I needed too. I needed a new stock project. Now that I'm working kind of full time I can do the things I'd like now.

I think I'm going to get the fuel pump seal at the autoparts store so it will stop leaking and just throw back together I guess :\

The air line that goes right after the air box is broken off. So there is just a hole there with the vacuum line off. Is this bad?

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 13:52
Important question. If I get a fuel pump seal and seal my gas tank with jb weld will that help the "fuel pressure". I figured since fuel escapes above 1/2 a tank that means there is outside air getting in the tank. Which would mess with the fuel pressure correct?

Also I just finished a compression test.

6-135
5-140
4-135
3-130
2-145
1-135

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 15:19
Going to the parts store for a new rad hose, fuel tank seal, black rustoleum.

hupo224
July 24th, 2010, 15:41
I guess we can just close this thread. I'll see if I can get everything good by tomorrow. If I run into some major problem that I need help with. I'll post about it. Thanks for the help everybody. I'll be referencing this thread and using search a lot to find my answers and have my jeep good by tomorrow hopefully. Wish me luck :)

87manche
July 25th, 2010, 07:40
I guess we can just close this thread. I'll see if I can get everything good by tomorrow.

impatient much?

first things first, JB weld has no business near your fuel tank. It won't hold up to the gasoline and will turn into a mess. Just install a new O ring around the sender unit properly and the tank leak will probably be fixed.

The fuel tank leak has nothing to do with your fuel pressure, the tank it not pressurized and it has vents already. how do you think air gets in to replace the fuel you're burning?

You can bypass the ceramic resistor on the fender, the pump will probably get noisier because the resistor was put in place to address pump noise complaints. Neither of my 87's has a ballast resistor.. It will be useful in troublshooting your bucking, if it is fuel related, it's possible that the resistor has a crack and is making intermittent contact. Make sure you use an appropriate sized wire to jump the connectors, something like 12 GA.

You need to set the range on the ohm meter to 100, that will give you the correct range to read the 0-90 ohm range on the sender. Sender has nothing to do with the fuel pump. It does not need to be connected to the harness to test the sender.

Go here and learn the basics on using a multimeter, then I can help you troubleshoot the ignition.
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/

Watch the videos on resistance, continuity and voltage.

hupo224
July 25th, 2010, 10:48
impatient much?

first things first, JB weld has no business near your fuel tank. It won't hold up to the gasoline and will turn into a mess. Just install a new O ring around the sender unit properly and the tank leak will probably be fixed.

The fuel tank leak has nothing to do with your fuel pressure, the tank it not pressurized and it has vents already. how do you think air gets in to replace the fuel you're burning?

You can bypass the ceramic resistor on the fender, the pump will probably get noisier because the resistor was put in place to address pump noise complaints. Neither of my 87's has a ballast resistor.. It will be useful in troublshooting your bucking, if it is fuel related, it's possible that the resistor has a crack and is making intermittent contact. Make sure you use an appropriate sized wire to jump the connectors, something like 12 GA.

You need to set the range on the ohm meter to 100, that will give you the correct range to read the 0-90 ohm range on the sender. Sender has nothing to do with the fuel pump. It does not need to be connected to the harness to test the sender.

Go here and learn the basics on using a multimeter, then I can help you troubleshoot the ignition.
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/

Watch the videos on resistance, continuity and voltage.

Thank you for this. The multimeter seems to not have a "100" under ohms. But I'll double check it.

kastein
July 25th, 2010, 10:55
200 should work as well... it will just read 0-200 ohms instead of 0-100. You'll still read the value.

Most analog meters are a 0-1x or 0-5x scale, while most digital meters are 0-2x scale (where x is some number in 10, 100, 1000, etc etc.)

hupo224
July 25th, 2010, 11:03
Also I wasn't being impatient. I felt I needed to fix my threads as I was just basically adding notes on what's going on as replies. Yesterday I plugged the unit into the harness and then tried checking the ohms of the sender. Like I said it was stuck on 20. I'll check it again without it being connected. But I just have this feeling that nothing is going to show. I read about the "jb weld" fix when I was searching. Going back to the parts store to pick up the o ring/lock ring combo. Bought electric connector cleaner because I have a lot of scary corroded connections (I may have fixed my speedometer by cleaning the one plug and the 2 plugs going into the ballast resistor were scary)

kastein
July 25th, 2010, 11:07
:doh:

Test it without it connected to the harness. You were applying voltage to the meter with it set to resistance - if you had done that with an analog meter you would have burnt it out, fortunately digital meters usually protect against UHE.

hupo224
July 25th, 2010, 12:11
Stays at 100 when I tested it. Even when the arm is moved.

hupo224
July 25th, 2010, 13:57
Getting the lock ring and o ring tomorrow. Bought a fuel filter, wires, cap, rotor, electric plug cleaner, injector cleaner.

87manche
July 25th, 2010, 17:03
if the connectors to the ballast resistor were all corroded you can bet that the corrosion has crept up into the ceramic. Bypass it using appropriately sized wire, 14 ga or heavier and the proper spade connectors.
This could be your hesitation issue.
if the sender is stuck at 100 then that's likely the fual gauge issue. Try gounding the fuel sender lead on the body side of the harness and seeing if the guage responds. it will go to full I think, I know that the renix gauge will go to E when grounded.

hupo224
July 25th, 2010, 17:17
I had my dad watch the gauge. I used the pin wire thing out of the multimeter. I put it to the right wire on the harness then the other end to the body of the jeep. Nothing moved however. I'll bypass it tomorrow. Going to get the fuel tank in after work.

Also to make note. Last time I drove it which was saturday the hesitation got worse. I believe it was because I had much less gas in the tank as I was trying to burn fuel for when I dropped the tank. Each bump I hit in the road and I was on the gas it would stall out basically. The tachometer will read 0 and won't jump back up until I hit the gas. If not it would stall out completely. When I first got it I drove it 2 hours home with it bucking a hand full of times. (when I hit small bumps in the road cruising at 70 and sometimes when I'm just cruising on smooth road.)

Shorty
July 25th, 2010, 18:02
I had my dad watch the gauge. I used the pin wire thing out of the multimeter. I put it to the right wire on the harness then the other end to the body of the jeep. Nothing moved however.

key on?

hupo224
July 25th, 2010, 18:05
key on?
Yes the key was on.

hupo224
July 26th, 2010, 18:01
Got the fuel tank back in. With all the little things I done while the tank was out seemed to have fixed a lot. The Jeep is now 10x more stronger/faster 10x more responsive and there has not been a single "buck" or hesitation. At first my fuel pump was quite. Since I got fuel not too long ago its back to its loud whine. Fuel gauge still does not work and the speedometer/odometer/trip still does not work. :shrug:


Also I sealed up 4 pinholes in my gas tank that were next to each other. Quick steel ftw.