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Getting ready to lift.....what else should i replace?

M

MJ3000

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Pennsylvania
My RE 3.5" lift should be here on Monday and since my XJ is my daily driver I'd like to some maintenance while everything is tore a part for a few days. Just looking to replace cheap parts that go bad with time.

So far my list is as follows:
T-case, tranny, axle fluids
Wheel cylinders in D35
Tailpipe
Fix any rust
U-joints

I know theres more that I could do but I'm drawing a blank. Anything else you guys think i should do?

Oh and what would cause my rear brakes to squeak? It's really annoying and I'd like to fix it if I could.... :helpme:

Thanks
 
Well i think that your off to a good start, i would also check your bushings and make sure that everything is well, and be sure to re-check everything after you put your lift on, be aware that the lift changes all of your angles and geometry and in most cases RE lift tend to be a little bit taller than what is stated. So don't be surprised if problems pop up that you did not have before.
 
Yeah I know.....I'm hoping to get by with shims and a t-case drop but I'm not so sure anymore. I just don't wanna spend a bajillion $ on driveshafts. :bawl:
 
I can understand fixing the rust, and the fluids are an easy change anytime, so why bother fixing the other things if they are not broken? And as for the driveshaft you can use the front driveshaft in then front and rear, and they can be had for $50 from a junkyard (Unless your running without the SYE)
 
If you're going to do a trans fluid change anyway- why not get a new filter and pan gasket plus a trans cooler? Drain it, drop the pan, clean, remount pan, bolt in/plumb cooler, refill= nice.
 
cjsxj87 said:
Why not put a 8.25 in while your doing the lift so you can get rid of the 35?
Click to expand...


That would be a great idea if you're in the market for parts anyway. Start looking around. I think you could find a good one for under 300.

Since you're planning on sticking money into the D35, you may as well find a 8.25 and fix it up- then you can run up to around 33 locked safely - if I remember correctly.
 
HenryKrinkle said:
That would be a great idea if you're in the market for parts anyway. Start looking around. I think you could find a good one for under 300.

Since you're planning on sticking money into the D35, you may as well find a 8.25 and fix it up- then you can run up to around 33 locked safely - if I remember correctly.
Click to expand...

i just bought a 8.25 29 spline for $150. they are out there. and im also ordering the 3.5 rubi kit with the leafsprings.
 
It depends on where you live. I can get an 8.25 for $150 in my area. $300 isnt unheard of.

I used to have the 3.5" RE superflex kit. You may want to consider an SYE or a trans case drop, because youll get some nasty vibes..or atleast I did.
 
I can pick up axles around here for 130 all day and all night, or 100 if I'm buying enough other stuff at the same time that they just throw a round number at me.
 
everyone also gets all crazy about sye kits. in no way will i say they are a bad thing. they do theyre job. but if your considering the cheaper way, i would try to get your driveshaft extended by about an inch. XJ's typically have longer driveshafts than YJ, TJ, etc and getting someone (WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING) to fabricate it, will save you what....100's and 100's of dollars? Here in Ontario the best one i could find without losing quality was 660. its just a thought tho. i put an inch on mine, cost me 60$ and didn't even have to balance it.
 
Really depends... if your jeep is a 95 or older XJ, you can get away with a few more inches of lift before you usually need a slip yoke eliminator, if yours is a 96 or newer, you will usually need one above 2" or so, but again, people get lucky, it depends. I had some vibes at 3.5" on my 96.
 
JGR1517 said:
everyone also gets all crazy about sye kits. in no way will i say they are a bad thing. they do theyre job. but if your considering the cheaper way, i would try to get your driveshaft extended by about an inch. XJ's typically have longer driveshafts than YJ, TJ, etc and getting someone (WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING) to fabricate it, will save you what....100's and 100's of dollars? Here in Ontario the best one i could find without losing quality was 660. its just a thought tho. i put an inch on mine, cost me 60$ and didn't even have to balance it.
Click to expand...
Double cardan driveshaft and hack and tap SYE for $400ish. Got mine through DPGOffroad, he knows what's he's doing.

If you need a SYE, you need an SYE. Especially if he's got a later model XJ, they generally need SYEs sooner.

EDIT: As kastein said, you have to consider the year. My 96 took a 1.5" shackle out back and 3" up front with no problem. But 3.5" RE leafs with those same 1.5" shackles needed an SYE to avoid rattling my fillings loose from about 20-55mph, with a short break right at 35.
 
The only way to know for sure is to run it and find out...I just chose to buy mine with the lift so there wouldn't be any down time if the vibes rendered it undriveable.
 
Ok update time.....I'm almost done with the install and am currently installing the 1" T-case drop. The two studs that hold the cross member on, do I have to turn them out of the body with a vice grips or something to get the spacer and new bolt in?

And also do the splines on the output shaft need to be completely engaged in the driveshaft? Theres about a half inch of splines not in the driveshaft.....think I'll have vibes?

Thanks
 
MJ3000 said:
Ok update time.....I'm almost done with the install and am currently installing the 1" T-case drop. The two studs that hold the cross member on, do I have to turn them out of the body with a vice grips or something to get the spacer and new bolt in?
Click to expand...

yes. I think there is a proper tool for the job but I use vice grips. I'm not saving the stud so I don't really care if I trash the threads.
 
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