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89 no spark

rydizzy said:
4.0 auto not getting spark. CPS is good, grounds are good. The coil is putting out voltage to the distributor..I'm confused.
Click to expand...
Those two statements contradict each other.

Is it possible that you are getting a weak spark from the coil to the dist.?

Or do you mean that you are getting voltage to the ignition control module?
 
Last edited:
When my 89 did this, i removed the CPS and cleaned it real good..Made sure i got a good contact to the housing....Now it starts every time, first time...(knock on wood)..But i now carry a spare CPS in the tool box..
 
rydizzy said:
Ok..there is power from the coil to the distributor...but the plug wires get nothing.
Click to expand...
IF the "power" is enough to jump a 1/8th inch gap and give you a crisp blue spark, you're losing the power between mechanical parts.Coil wire-to-cap connection? Rotor-to-center post connection? Rotor-to-wire terminal gap? Plug wires-to-cap connections?
 
Shorty said:
IF the "power" is enough to jump a 1/8th inch gap and give you a crisp blue spark, you're losing the power between mechanical parts.Coil wire-to-cap connection? Rotor-to-center post connection? Rotor-to-wire terminal gap? Plug wires-to-cap connections?
Click to expand...

New distributor cap, rotor, wires...I don't get why it wouldn't work.
 
manufacturing defects in the carbon "button" in the cap or the spring steel contact arm on the rotor can happen. The ignition demands from a cold engine are substantially greater than from a hot engine, Make sure everything is clean, tight, and making good contact.

Are we sure the spark is strong and blue?

If it's yellowish/orange, it may not be strong enough to jump the gaps in the ignition system on a cold start, but might be ok with less demand. Inspect coil for signs of arching (external leakage) and re-clean the connections at the ignition control moduls (using dielectric grease as previously suggested)
 
Ok, if I am reading correctly, and there is no guarantee of that, you have spark--but you have no spark DISTRIBUTION to the cylinders? Busted rotor, busted distributor gear, bad cap--the center contact has fallen out/not making contact with the rotor.
 
This is why I'm confused. Everything you listed I've checked and double checked. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor today and it's the same as it was before. I had the distributor out the other day, and it is fine. Yesterday afternoon it started and ran perfect and I drove it around. This morning no spark. Then after removing and reinstalling the coil, it started, but the ignition would cut out randomly. Once I got it warm, it ran fine.
 
Ok, you need to check the following WHEN THERE IS NO SPARK:

CPS/CKP crank sensor--resistance value is 200 ohms, + - 75 ohms.

Power to ICM--check for 12 volts.

Power to B Latch relay--check for 12 volts to it, 12 volts out for the ICM.

Remove the coil from the ICM and clean the contacts, treat with dielectric grease.

Have you renewed the grounds? Dipstick tube has critical grounds for the ICM, ECU, and o2 sensor. The single unibody ground from the head to the firewall is also critical--replace the braided strap with a 4 or 2 ga cable, strip surfaces to bare metal, treat with anti-corrosion agent, and make the connections TIGHT.
 
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