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HOW HIGH TO LIFT

i have a 2000 xj and im sitting at 4 inches on 33's with a 1" transfer case drop and trimmed fenders with no drive shaft issues. i dont want to go any higher. im pretty happy where it sits.
 
how high can i lift my 2000 xj beforei have to have the driveshafts lengthened?thanks

At 4" of lift, 97+ XJs usually need an SYE and a new rear CV driveshaft to run without serious vibrations. Mine had vibes at 2" of lift.

The stock front driveshaft will be fine at 4".
 
I'm at about 6" with long arms and still using my stock front shaft. As for the rear, general consensus is that a SYE and new rear shaft are needed at 4" or so.

A transfer case drop can help with vibes, but in my oppinion they are useless because of the loss of ground clearance. I tried it for a while at 3.5" lift and still couldn't get rid of the vibes.

A SYE can be done for as little as $300.
 
hey ridgerunner explain to me how your losing ground clearance? your ground clearance is determined by the height from your lowest point on the vehicle to the ground. which would be your diff's correct? so if you lower your TC an inch, your ground clearance stays the same. if my front axle doesnt make it over the rock/tree etc im pretty sure the transfer case is going to be the last thing im going to worry about.
 
hey ridgerunner explain to me how your losing ground clearance? your ground clearance is determined by the height from your lowest point on the vehicle to the ground. which would be your diff's correct? so if you lower your TC an inch, your ground clearance stays the same. if my front axle doesnt make it over the rock/tree etc im pretty sure the transfer case is going to be the last thing im going to worry about.
i had chunks missing out of my tcase with out a tcase drop, im sure if it had a drop i wouldnt have a tcase anymore, you ever heard of somthing called a breakover angle
 
i had chunks missing out of my tcase with out a tcase drop, im sure if it had a drop i wouldnt have a tcase anymore, you ever heard of somthing called a breakover angle


not where i wheel =) my jeep has never seen an obstacle where the center of my chassis acted like a pivot point, i prolly wont either until i can get me some sliders or something :)
 
not where i wheel =) my jeep has never seen an obstacle where the center of my chassis acted like a pivot point, i prolly wont either until i can get me some sliders or something :)

Yeah those curbs aren't quite as big out there! :wave1:
 
hey ridgerunner explain to me how your losing ground clearance? your ground clearance is determined by the height from your lowest point on the vehicle to the ground. which would be your diff's correct? so if you lower your TC an inch, your ground clearance stays the same. if my front axle doesnt make it over the rock/tree etc im pretty sure the transfer case is going to be the last thing im going to worry about.


funny-pictures-pony-mechanic.jpg
 
There are replacement Cross-Members out there that incorporate a 1" drop in the design and will not mess with the break over angle.

3~4" with a T-Case drop should be fine. Grease the crap out of the slip joint while you have the drive shaft out.

Ron

... and I love the pix above! That's great!
 
how high to lift?

high enough.

(seriously though, I wouldn't go over 5-6" for any reason, and I'm fairly certain some people are running stock shafts at that height)
 
Yeah those curbs aren't quite as big out there! :wave1:


hey, i'd like you to know that one of those curbs tried to rip off my front bumper to my honda! i stopped before the curb and slowly crept up to it thinkin i was just going to bump it as usual, only this time it decided to scrape and snag my bumper so when i backed out it held onto it and scratched it up pretty good.
 
There are replacement Cross-Members out there that incorporate a 1" drop in the design and will not mess with the break over angle.

3~4" with a T-Case drop should be fine. Grease the crap out of the slip joint while you have the drive shaft out.

Ron

... and I love the pix above! That's great!

Most long arm kits you buy that come with a supplied crossmember do provide 1 to 1-1/4 built in drop. And I am assuming that if you are going over 4.5 inches that you have considered a long arm upgrade?... Do it right the first time and save your money.

I am at 6.5 or 7 inches and running a 1 inch drop built into my 3 link crossmember with no SYE, I just havent gotten around to it. I dont get any vibes, but it does change from year to year (im in a 1990). I do suggest a SYE but who says you cant build your jeep in stages right? No matter how good you grease that slip yoke you are still going to chew through seals.
 
im thinking probly 3 or 4 inches.i live in communist illinois so the only off-roading thats done anymore is when you swerve to miss a deer.but im gonna take a road trip to n.mexico and visit a friend and drive up in the mountains etc.so a little playin but i still have a old chevy truck for any serious muddin for now.thanks
 
<right-click, save as>

Seriously had me cackling over here in my little corner of the warehouse. Good thing we got loud swamp coolers and a loud freezer over here too.

Maxx: Breakover comes into play well before you get into hard core rock crawling. on a set of 33" tires the front diff is 12" or so off the ground, right? Now imagine driving down the trail and there's a few rocks to go around/over. A 12" rock isn't very big. But then, chances are, you're not driving and letting it go straight down the middle either, you'll probably run it over with you tires. Otherwise, I mean what's the point of a lift and 33s if everything you drive over is less than 12" off the ground?
 
<right-click, save as>

Seriously had me cackling over here in my little corner of the warehouse. Good thing we got loud swamp coolers and a loud freezer over here too.

Maxx: Breakover comes into play well before you get into hard core rock crawling. on a set of 33" tires the front diff is 12" or so off the ground, right? Now imagine driving down the trail and there's a few rocks to go around/over. A 12" rock isn't very big. But then, chances are, you're not driving and letting it go straight down the middle either, you'll probably run it over with you tires. Otherwise, I mean what's the point of a lift and 33s if everything you drive over is less than 12" off the ground?


i wasnt trying to start an arguement. i was simply stating that your ground clearance is measured at your lowest point. Those 12" rocks i like to call diff eaters, i try and drive on top of them as often as i can.

the closest thing i have came to a breakover point is climbing a ledge in the middle of a canyon trail and getting hung up before taking a different approach at it.
 
hey ridgerunner explain to me how your losing ground clearance? your ground clearance is determined by the height from your lowest point on the vehicle to the ground. which would be your diff's correct? so if you lower your TC an inch, your ground clearance stays the same. if my front axle doesnt make it over the rock/tree etc im pretty sure the transfer case is going to be the last thing im going to worry about.

i had chunks missing out of my tcase with out a tcase drop, im sure if it had a drop i wouldnt have a tcase anymore, you ever heard of somthing called a breakover angle

I meant breakover as ROBZ picked up on. I'm at 6" of lift, 33" tires and a crossmember that has 1" more clearance than stock and I have rockrash on it. That's why I don't like t-case drops.

I guess it really depends on what kind of wheeling you do.
 
The T-case being lower wouldn't even really worry me much, I have 3 spares (though looking at pics of 89eliminator's pair of 231 halves from WinterFest makes me worry more)... I just wouldn't want the edges of the crossmember and T-case turning into rock anchors, and don't like the way a T-case drop tilts the whole drivetrain and makes the radiator more vulnerable.
 
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