• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Last Minute advice? Ready to buy RockKrawler 6.5 w/ Coil over rear.

X

XJJD

NAXJA Forum User
Location
AZ
K so I'm ready to pick up the RockKrawler’s 6.5 w/ rear coil over conversion and X Factor Plus Steering Conversion. Any last minute advice from anyone who has installed this lift or is very familiar with it would be great. I am planning on running 35" Baja Claws on 15 x 8 steelies.

1. Someone said I needed a Slip Yoke Eliminator, I have no Idea what that is or what it does so if anyone knows where I can get one and how much I'm looking at that would be great.

2. Any advice on who can do the welding in AZ?

3. X Factor Plus vs. Triple Threat 4 link the front overkill?

4. I am also hung up on the shocks so opinions there would be helpful. RockKrawler says:

Triple Threat
Front Shock - 18" Collapsed to 30" Extended
Rear Shock - 13" Collapsed to 23" Extended

X factor Plus
Front Shock - 19" Collapsed to 31" Extended
Rear Shock - 14.5" Collapsed to 24.5" Extended

But I can’t find any shocks anywhere with these specs I am looking at the Bilstein 9100 Series Coilover would those work?

I know I am in way over my head :) but it wouldn’t be any fun if I wasn’t lol! So let me know your thoughts guys thanks.

PS 93 XJ, Safari Snorkel, PSC Steering box, Northwestern metal Fuel cell, Jet Chip.
 
sounds like a cool build, you will definately need a sye. it changes the output of your t/case to a fixed yoke (eliminates the stock slip yoke), you'll need a custom cv shaft too, its sold as a kit from a few places, you install it, and measure for the d/s, and they send you the size you need.

as far as shocks... the 9100 is an expensive coilover, its gonna take a lot of work to goto coilovers, talk to a shop, or keep a convention coil+shock setup. checkout fox, king or bilstein for shocks. 2.5" at least, since you're talking 9100 money!
 
I'm running the Krawler 4-link on the rear of mine, and have a few words of wisdom.

I would save your money, and stay with leafs! I do like my 4-link, but unless you're into some serious wheelin, and your Jeep is mainly a trail rig, the 4-link is way overkill for what you will need.

The leafs provide a lot more stability on off camber hills, and are more predictable. My 4-link with the coilovers will make you straight up chit your pants....as coilovers like to unload. If you can fab up an Anti-rock sway bar on the rear that would definitely help, but good luck finding the room.

Another thing with mine is road manners. Without a sway bar on the rear, it doesn't handle the best going down the road. I ended up fabbing up a rear sway bar using a factory sway bar from a 2001 Dodge 3/4 ton. It helped a tremendous amount, but I still have to remove it for any kind of wheelin.

With that being said, if this is your beginner rig....stay with leafs. Build the Jeep, learn how it handles and get a good feel for it. If you feel like you need the 4-link later down the road that's fine....but keep it simple at first. I personally have 2-XJ's...one with leafs and one with a 4-link rear; they are completely different animals!!

As far as the 3-link / 4-link front; The 3-link will give you more articulation on the trail. Not a huge amount, but it will flex more. The 4-link will give you better road manners, and is suited more for going fast in the desert / dunes type scenario.


If you are dead set on the 4-link, these are the coilover's I have on mine... http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Coilover-5-8-Shaft-p-643.html
Keep in mind, once you buy the coilover, you're going to have to buy the coils....that is, once you figure out what spring rate you need for the coils, valving, etc. Unless you are familiar with coilover's...they are a bitch to setup. I know a little bit about them, but nowhere near what I need to. Mine still aren't completely 100% fine tuned.

Read this link...http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/coilovers/Part_1/ All you need to know about coilover's is in that link.
 
Last edited:
i'd say start with a smaller kit to framiliarize yourself with suspensions first. if you dont know what a SYE, you shouldnt even be considering coilovers.

READ READ READ!
 
xcm said:
i'd say start with a smaller kit to framiliarize yourself with suspensions first. if you dont know what a SYE, you shouldnt even be considering coilovers.

READ READ READ!
Click to expand...


x 1 million. About 2 years ago I was in the same boat. Had a stock jeep and wanted to get the biggest baddest lift out there. Then I started to read and found how much additional cost goes into it. And its also more then just money. You're used to driving it stock. If you lift it that much and convert to coil rear its gonna be a completely different vehicle in the way it handles. I went to a 2" bb lift, then to a 4" and now I'm at 6.5". Spent a lot of extra money along the way but I got to know my jeep at the different stages of its suspension etc.
 
xcm said:
i'd say start with a smaller kit to framiliarize yourself with suspensions first. if you dont know what a SYE, you shouldnt even be considering coilovers.

READ READ READ!
Click to expand...

^This

A well built factory leaf sprung xj will out perform a poorly built 4 link rear xj.
 
besides the suspension debate, which has been debated. theres the driveline debate. stock axles wont work well with 35" tires, and a 6.5" lift wont look good with the smaller stuff...


go with a smaller kit, if you end up wanting to go with the higher lift, the time spent on 31"s/33"s will help you understand why 35"s arent a good tire size to start with on a cherokee. most people END UP with 35"s. the few that start that high either know a lot about offroading from other cars, have someone who can plan the build for them, and point out every little thing they need. or flat out have someone build it for them, and write the check...
 
you should deffinately get the basics down first SYE is one of the first things any jeeper should learn about. if you need help i work at a shop in tempe, we weld and i can order your SYE and put it together for you and along the way ill have you help me so you can learn. on top of that you get a discount here for being a NAXJA forum user. call us 480 966 1616 (shop) or you can call or text me at 480 455 8028. idk how much you use the chapter thread but theres a lot of really good guys in our chapter that will be more than willing to help you out
 
Gotlift01 said:
I'm running the Krawler 4-link on the rear of mine, and have a few words of wisdom.

I would save your money, and stay with leafs! I do like my 4-link, but unless you're into some serious wheelin, and your Jeep is mainly a trail rig, the 4-link is way overkill for what you will need.

The leafs provide a lot more stability on off camber hills, and are more predictable. My 4-link with the coilovers will make you straight up chit your pants....as coilovers like to unload. If you can fab up an Anti-rock sway bar on the rear that would definitely help, but good luck finding the room.

Another thing with mine is road manners. Without a sway bar on the rear, it doesn't handle the best going down the road. I ended up fabbing up a rear sway bar using a factory sway bar from a 2001 Dodge 3/4 ton. It helped a tremendous amount, but I still have to remove it for any kind of wheelin.

With that being said, if this is your beginner rig....stay with leafs. Build the Jeep, learn how it handles and get a good feel for it. If you feel like you need the 4-link later down the road that's fine....but keep it simple at first. I personally have 2-XJ's...one with leafs and one with a 4-link rear; they are completely different animals!!

As far as the 3-link / 4-link front; The 3-link will give you more articulation on the trail. Not a huge amount, but it will flex more. The 4-link will give you better road manners, and is suited more for going fast in the desert / dunes type scenario.


If you are dead set on the 4-link, these are the coilover's I have on mine... http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Coilover-5-8-Shaft-p-643.html
Keep in mind, once you buy the coilover, you're going to have to buy the coils....that is, once you figure out what spring rate you need for the coils, valving, etc. Unless you are familiar with coilover's...they are a bitch to setup. I know a little bit about them, but nowhere near what I need to. Mine still aren't completely 100% fine tuned.

Read this link...http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/coilovers/Part_1/ All you need to know about coilover's is in that link.
Click to expand...

Good avice here :thumbup:
 
Thanks for everyone’s responses. I guess I should have clarified a few things regarding my experiences. I am not familiar with building jeeps but I am very familiar with off roading. I am also a professional mechanic for motorcycles and have worked on and with pro teams specifically being a mechanic on Plano Honda with Ivan Tedesco in 2000. (which makes me very familiar with coil over setup {speaking of which if your coils are unloading too fast you should slow down your rebound}, I have had a hand in rally car ice racing in the IIRA. I also was the driver in the solo sprint class. See vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wv6-QUgaFec see website: www.acrmotorsports.com you may have seen some of the team on Jesse James’ Monster Garage in the “Cold Stone Creamery episode” I’m driving number 25. I also used to own a Toyota Tacoma lifted 8” with leaves which handled like you would think it would lol. I have been a Service manager in charge of 2 major motorsports shops (shops doing 2.0 mil + a year) I also used to test ride the prototype and concept motorcycles for Harley Davidson.

These among many other builds that I have also had a hand in and ridden, Some of which were debatably the fastest motorsports vehicles in the world including 4 wheelers and jet skis built by communicating with developers and manufacturers all over the world to obtain prototype parts for other pro teams of which I am not directly attributed with.

So That being said I come to you because you are the best of the best in the XJ world correct?

Well I have owned my XJ for almost ten years and I have loved every minute of it. Now it’s time to repay it. I am going to build it for exploring and camping and showing it off (not gonna lie). Also will be used to pre run some trails for trophy truck and rally car racing. I May build it way beyond what I currently need but I only plan to do it once.

I have another daily driver and a truck to pull the jeep to the trail but I do still plan to be able to drive this bad boy on the road for some trips. The only reason I don’t go in and write a check to the closest local 4x4 place it that I don’t trust ‘em to do it right. Nowadays if you want something done right you have to do it yourself. The only way I can do that is with your help so here’s what we have to start with:

P.S. rereading this post I sound cocky, not trying to brag just trying to give perspective to those who would doubt my resolve. Your concern for my well being is much appreciated.

P.S.S. I know that driving a jeep is different than everything above let’s please not make this post about that but if you have or have installed the 4 link setup and still think it is not the way to go please don’t be shy.

P.S.S. running stock axels which I believe is a Chrysler 8.5? in the rear. and a high pinion Dana 33 in the front. Will be upgrading to Dana 60’s front and rear if I start breaking axels but was hoping just to gear these w/ lockers.
 
Gotlift01 said:
Another thing with mine is road manners. Without a sway bar on the rear, it doesn't handle the best going down the road. I ended up fabbing up a rear sway bar using a factory sway bar from a 2001 Dodge 3/4 ton. It helped a tremendous amount, but I still have to remove it for any kind of wheelin.
QUOTE]

So it handled so bad on the road you actually built your own sway bar for the rear end?
Click to expand...
 
djrethoret said:
you should deffinately get the basics down first SYE is one of the first things any jeeper should learn about. if you need help i work at a shop in tempe, we weld and i can order your SYE and put it together for you and along the way ill have you help me so you can learn. on top of that you get a discount here for being a NAXJA forum user. call us 480 966 1616 (shop) or you can call or text me at 480 455 8028. idk how much you use the chapter thread but theres a lot of really good guys in our chapter that will be more than willing to help you out
Click to expand...

thanks that sounds great I will give you a call this weekend.
 
i say start with the 4 link front and rear and do it all right the first time and learn from there lol but sounds like you got the right experiance anyway so get building lol:exclamati
 
XJJD said:
Thanks for everyone’s responses. I guess I should have clarified a few things regarding my experiences. I am not familiar with building jeeps but I am very familiar with off roading. I am also a professional mechanic for motorcycles and have worked on and with pro teams specifically being a mechanic on Plano Honda with Ivan Tedesco in 2000. (which makes me very familiar with coil over setup {speaking of which if your coils are unloading too fast you should slow down your rebound}, I have had a hand in rally car ice racing in the IIRA. I also was the driver in the solo sprint class. See vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wv6-QUgaFec see website: www.acrmotorsports.com you may have seen some of the team on Jesse James’ Monster Garage in the “Cold Stone Creamery episode” I’m driving number 25. I also used to own a Toyota Tacoma lifted 8” with leaves which handled like you would think it would lol. I have been a Service manager in charge of 2 major motorsports shops (shops doing 2.0 mil + a year) I also used to test ride the prototype and concept motorcycles for Harley Davidson.

These among many other builds that I have also had a hand in and ridden, Some of which were debatably the fastest motorsports vehicles in the world including 4 wheelers and jet skis built by communicating with developers and manufacturers all over the world to obtain prototype parts for other pro teams of which I am not directly attributed with.

So That being said I come to you because you are the best of the best in the XJ world correct?

Well I have owned my XJ for almost ten years and I have loved every minute of it. Now it’s time to repay it. I am going to build it for exploring and camping and showing it off (not gonna lie). Also will be used to pre run some trails for trophy truck and rally car racing. I May build it way beyond what I currently need but I only plan to do it once.

I have another daily driver and a truck to pull the jeep to the trail but I do still plan to be able to drive this bad boy on the road for some trips. The only reason I don’t go in and write a check to the closest local 4x4 place it that I don’t trust ‘em to do it right. Nowadays if you want something done right you have to do it yourself. The only way I can do that is with your help so here’s what we have to start with:

P.S. rereading this post I sound cocky, not trying to brag just trying to give perspective to those who would doubt my resolve. Your concern for my well being is much appreciated.

P.S.S. I know that driving a jeep is different than everything above let’s please not make this post about that but if you have or have installed the 4 link setup and still think it is not the way to go please don’t be shy.

P.S.S. running stock axels which I believe is a Chrysler 8.5? in the rear. and a high pinion Dana 33 in the front. Will be upgrading to Dana 60’s front and rear if I start breaking axels but was hoping just to gear these w/ lockers.
Click to expand...



Sounds like your way ahead of yourself. Having it for 10 years and not even knowing what running gear is in it. Not trying to bash you but do some searching and reading on the forums here. Trust me you will learn a lot. I am very new to building Heeps. I think you also might be running a Chrysler 8.25 and a Dana 30.....
 
jwebb85 said:
Sounds like your way ahead of yourself. Having it for 10 years and not even knowing what running gear is in it. Not trying to bash you but do some searching and reading on the forums here. Trust me you will learn a lot. I am very new to building Heeps. I think you also might be running a Chrysler 8.25 and a Dana 30.....
Click to expand...

Just haven't had time for the jeep man had way too much other chit going on. I have actually been browsing these posts for 5 years lol. Everyone has a different opinion on everything. I guess that's my issue, you see, you could ask me what the best exhaust system is for any given bike of any given year and when I tell you it will be true fact proven through Dyno testing and track testing but when it comes to lifts everyone claims they have the best but there’s no way to say otherwise. I guess I’m just going to pick one and try it out and if I don’t like it swap it out that seems to be what everyone on here does. The only things that seem to be solid is that everyone likes to run at least 35” and have at least 6” of lift so I’m Going to start with this one: http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=10 piss on the coil overs sounds like a lot of work for a chitty ride.

Does everyone at least agree that Rock Krawler makes a descent product and has good return policies?

And you’re right Chrysler 8.25 and a high pinion Dana 30 thanks.
 
Either way, working out the proper setup on a unibody takes a lot of skill. If you're up for it, post your progress!

And actually, many people perfer lower than 6 inches. Low cog is where it's at.
 
RK physically makes good products, but like everyone else mfging lift parts, its a compromise.

for example, they take a stupid beef approach on their long arms, extra un needed weight from the solid control arms... its just stupid. also their long arm joints are GARBAGE, but if you wanted to add on 3/4 extra long arm joints. that'd be an extra $200, which would put their kit at a disadvantage due to price. the stuff they sell works.... but theres soooooo much room for improvement, luckily ballistic offers better joints if you care to upgrade.

jeep people are cheap, and it hurts our sport time after time again.

return policies? like if you install it and dont like it? i think the fitment, and installation procedures make most lift stuff unreturnable...
they lost a box on a friends long arm kit, getting a replacement was easy and painfree, even if they do share an office call center.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

X
Help me my Obi Wan Kenobi's
2 3
Replies
47
Views
13K
75SV1
7
B
Is this the last goodbye? - anyone in UK want a 1993 XJ?
Replies
6
Views
2K
XJI6191
X
V
New to the XJ looking for general/upgrade advice.
2
Replies
20
Views
3K
75SV1
7
N
2000 XJ, high miles, lots of new parts, still have vibration
Replies
10
Views
1K
N8N_99xj
N
H
The all inclusive guide to ford 8.8 swap
Replies
7
Views
6K
Havoc_protocol
H
Back
Top