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Heavy vibes

S

SINCITY192

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bronx, NY
88 XJ 4.0 L, 6cyl, auto trans
I was wondering has any one felt heavy vibes while idling
It seems like the vibes are coming from the engine for sure or from the operation of the engine. If that makes any sense.
There pretty strong vibes too so they have me a lil worried.
Thanks in advance for the help guys.
 
double check plug wires and plugs are in good shape before you proceed.

I know it's overheated at least once, so I'll jump right in with a head/head gasket prognosis.... run a compression check to verify sound operation of the engine before you throw a single penny at it.

one overheat (previous owner) and some driving with "heavy vibes" ended poorly for the last one I picked up (cheap):

005-3.jpg


002-10.jpg
 
I haven't change the mounts since i brought the jeep,(really dumm right)
also shorty I have owned this jeep for about 2 yrs now and I have change my head gasket because of milky oil. I think that was about a yr ago I did that. I over heated before......... when I lived in NYC and it was a bad pump changed it out and it was good until l recently....

with that being said... during the over heating I think the coolant that settled on my wires probably are corroding them!!! What do you think?

And Brown dog i cant see my idle because that isnt on the cluster (if thats what its called? the thing with all the gauges) but i do hear sometimes when i start the jeep my idle will go way high!!! too high
sometimes it wont go down.... i'll have to pop the hood, and unplug my TPS (the 3-way connector) for a second until it goes down then connect it and drive
 
rocknxj said:
I was going to suggest engine mounts, but BD beat me to it. After reading your last post, I think you may need to replace the obvious tune up parts and maybe do a compression check on all cylinders.
Click to expand...

X2 on the compression check but it'll have to wait until I get some money because I need to buy a compression checker!!!! What is wrong when your compression is off? just asking so I can understand more about how it all
works and how or what im fixing
 
When your compression is bad, it is worn rings, burnt or sticking valve, or leaking head gasket.

You could try carefully pulling off one spark plug wire at a time, while running with a special insulated plug wire removal tool. (CAUTION! SHOCK!) Or you can shut it off, pull one plug wire and restart. If pulling a wire makes no difference to the smoothness or idle speed, it means that that cylinder isn't working good when it is hooked up. Only pull one off at a time.

Have you done step 1 yet? Pulled the plugs out and looked for a bad looking plug? Off color, fouled, etc.
 
no I've been working late last couple of days I work till 10 tonight.
I get off tomorrow so I do step one then winterbeater then I'll post the results
if i find a bad cylinder what do i have to do to fix it! I know removing the head is part of it but I need details so I know what parts to get!!
 
winterbeater said:
When your compression is bad, it is worn rings, burnt or sticking valve, or leaking head gasket.

You could try carefully pulling off one spark plug wire at a time, while running with a special insulated plug wire removal tool. (CAUTION! SHOCK!) Or you can shut it off, pull one plug wire and restart. If pulling a wire makes no difference to the smoothness or idle speed, it means that that cylinder isn't working good when it is hooked up. Only pull one off at a time.

Have you done step 1 yet? Pulled the plugs out and looked for a bad looking plug? Off color, fouled, etc.
Click to expand...

winterbeater i did step 1 i shut off jeep and pulled each plug 1 at a time restarting the jeep listening for a difference now i wasnt sure if u wanted me to take out the plugs and do this so I just took the wires off instead.
Taking the the wire of each cylinder had a negative effect it ran worse in my opinion it kept making this tik tik tik noise and running ruff with the wires on it definitely ran alot better! now what is that enough to determine the problem or what else?
 
Shorty said:
1)double check plug wires and plugs are in good shape before you proceed.

I know it's overheated at least once, so I'll jump right in with a head/head gasket prognosis....2) run a compression check to verify sound operation of the engine before you throw a single penny at it.
Click to expand...

4 days later, you've accomplished step 1

time for step 2
 
X2 on compression check. Should be able to get one from an auto chain like Murrays. Buy it and bring it back for full refund. Cheaper than renting. I have borrowed many speciality tools like that.
 
winterbeater said:
X2 on compression check. Should be able to get one from an auto chain like Murrays. Buy it and bring it back for full refund. Cheaper than renting. I have borrowed many speciality tools like that.
Click to expand...

I don't think they've got Murrays in York, Pa and I can speak from experience that Advance doesn't have a compression gauge in their loaner tool program (I'm assuming you're not advocating buying a regular retail tool and then returning it used), but the last I heard, Auto Zone had one in their loaner program.
 
OK guys I have brought a compression checker I got it from the tool store I work in Never even noticed the 8.00 small compression checker on the shelf lmao.
I dont have a clue on what im doing so does anyone know how this thing works?
it has a 12" hose and 14mm and 18mm fittings for the spark plug holes
0-300 psi and it has a side release valve!
If that info helps, I want to make sure i do the test right
so far i know i need 2 people to test it one to crank the engine while i look at the gauge. But am i suppose to really take all the wies and plugs off at one time!
Disconnect the main wire that goes to the ignition coil? Anybody?
 
-all plugs out
-throttle propped wide open
-disable ignition system
-disable fuel injection system
-crank engine at least four cycles (8 revolutions)
-record 1'st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gauge reading for each

BEFORE you start this, lable every plug wire AND mark where each one was on the distributor cap. We don't want to create ANY more problems during reassembly.

To disable ignition and fuel injection on these things, I usually unplug the crank sensor. Without it, you won't have spark and the ECU won't pulse the injectors (all with one simple plug)

P.S. "BOUGHT" a compression checker
 
lol yea bought a compression tester

and the crank sensor Im assuming your talking about the CPS right!

also Whats do u mean by 4 cycles (8 revolutions)
 
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