Preparing a long block for installation ?'s

Just received a rebuilt long block (4.0 for a 99xj) but looking at it and the instructions that came with it, I really dont know or understand some of the preparation for it.

Some questions come to mind are:
1) Ill need new studs/bolts for the intake/exhaust manifold, what other hardware do I need?
2) Setting the distributor seems intimidating. Any tips? Also I am changing the cap and rotor because its affordable, should I replace the whole thing even if the old one is fine?
3) Other components Ill have tested such as the alternator and starter instead of just buying new ones. Once again, tips appreciated.
4) In the instructions it specifies to prime the oil pump and to "make sure that the oil flows to the top of the engine and into the rocker arms". Do you do this while the engine is on a stand? With the oil pan on or off? How do you do this procedure?!? It says I need a priming tool and a drill motor. Got the drill but what is this priming tool?

I only have limited experience with new motors, so can't answer most of your questions, but I can answer some of them...

1) Not a clue.
2) If you can afford it, I'd get a new one. Might as well replace items that see wear, but could affect the whole engine.
3) Sounds like a good plan; no sense spending money on something that works just fine, and could have years of service left. unlike the distributor, the starter & alternator are easily replaced if they fail after engine installation. Or at least they aren't as easy to mess up.)
4) It's best to prime the pump shortly before starting the engine for the first time (to pre-lube stuff), so make sure to do that if'n you can. But I think you can prime it on the engine stand just to make sure the oil pump is working well, and there's no issues. You'll need to have the pan on, and oil in the pan in order to do this.

HTH!

1. You will need what ever hardware you will need. Not a snotty answer--if you pulled the original engine, or you will be pulling it, then you will have the hardware you need unless it has become lost or was missing in the first place. As for the manifold hardware, 5-90 recommends bronze for longevity, search or PM 5-90 for more info, and you will want Belleville washers to keep the exhaust hardware from backing off. When installing hardware, if it doesn't seem to want to go on you may have the wrong nut/bolt, there is a mixture of SAE/metric, so don't force anything. Also, common error is to fail to get the intake manifold fully seated on the locating pins--not a problem if you like a runaway idle.

2. Make sure that you get the number one cylinder to TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke--both valves are closed, piston comes up, and you can feel air pressure against your thumb/finger if you hold it over the spark plug hole. Getting the distributor in 180 degrees out is very common. New cap and rotor--yes, brass contacts, not the cheap aluminum junk. New distributor and synch sensor--no, you should check it for shaft wobble and wear/damage to the drive gear, but I wouldn't replace it unless it needs to be--it is easier to change out than an alternator or starter.

3. Some chain parts stores alternator testers have problems with the Nippon Denso PCM regulated alternators, so if you are going to get it tested you would be better going to a more sophisticated shop. Did you have problems with the alternator/starter? If not they are most likely fine. Something you should do, though, is to get the battery fully charged and have it load tested--trying to fire off a rebuilt engine with a poor battery can be frustrating.

4. Look at the end of the distributor shaft--that is what drives the oil pump. Buy a piece of steel rod, grind/file one end to replicate the end of the distributor shaft then engages the pump, chuck the other end into an electric drill--you now have a pump priming tool. I would prime the pump and check for oil flow before installing the engine, and call it good IF you can get the engine installed and ready to fire off in a timely fashion, otherwise I would do it again after installation.

5. Hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge when you are ready to fire it up so you can observe the actual oil pressure at that time.