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brake line fitting
- Thread starter 4LVLFWD
- Start date
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
3/8" but you really need a "flare nut" wrench.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Agreed. Use a line wrench - a good quality one. If you are removing a line that is being replaced, cut the old line and use a deep 3/8" 6 point socket instead.
This doesn't apply to some of the fittings (mostly on the proportioning valve) but applies to most of them.
This doesn't apply to some of the fittings (mostly on the proportioning valve) but applies to most of them.
i was just test fitting the size witha box wrench b4 i went out and spent 20 bucks on a flare nut wrench. the 3/8 flare nut wrench fits but not as snug as i would like. whats up with a domestic vehicle using both standard and metric sizes??? I know with the imports i have had in the past they were all metric, no mixing and matching BS.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
Well, that would be because most (bastard Brits) foreign cars started out all metric, and that U.S. manufacturers have had their heads up their collective A** for the past 50 years--I mean really, why should U.S. manufacturers build cars all metric? Would they actually want to sell them to foreign countries? Certainly not, look how well they are doing overseas now! All sarcasm aside, I don't have a clue why we are still building SAE/metric bastard vehicles.
iwannadie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gilbert, Az
So is it confirmed the fitting size is 3/8(for my 97)? I have metric flare nut wrenches and 10mm is too loose, I am looking to get an SAE set if it is in fact a 3/8. The mix in fasteners drives me nuts especially when they are really close in sizes.
weebur
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern Illinois
$20 for a single wrench? What I do is either use one of my old boxed end wrenches or but a new one then using a cutoff wheel I cut a slot in the boxed end, just wide enough to let the line pass through. I cut the slot at 12 O'clock or in-line with the handle. I also heat up the wrench in a vise and bend the end to about forty-five degrees, then stick it in cold water. It's probably not as strong as a dedicated flare nut wrench but they have worked well for me.
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
That's fine until you get a rusted one that's really stuck, whereupon the cut-open wrench may spread, and once it slips on the fitting, you might as well just have barfed it up with vise grips. Nowadays I won't even use budget flare nut wrenches for removal of fittings, even if they work fine to put them back. My wrench of choice is S-K, and yes, it's pretty pricey. I think the 3/8 x 7/16 one will serve almost all your Jeep needs. Your mileage may, of course, vary, but long ago I determined that a high quality wrench pays for itself in aggravation and parts runs almost instantaneously. A good one will last just about forever if you don't lose it, so that 20 bucks is spread pretty thin.
weebur
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern Illinois
I couldn't agree more with using quality tools. I have complete sets of Craftsman metric and SAE flare nut wrenches. I only make my own when I run into special clearance issues.
I bought my first socket set (SK Tools) when I was 16 and still use it, and that's almost 50 years!
iwannadie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gilbert, Az
I have a set of craftsman metric flare wrenches and they have served me well. Looks like I need the SAE now for the jeep fittings.
