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99 4.0 Changing engine ?'s and tips needed

xjon

NAXJA Forum User
Location
So.Cal. MV
99 xj 4.0 with 140k miles
Changing engine due to severe internal noise, leaking oil, and just for S&G's.
Doing it this weekend with a rebuilt long block.
So Im looking around and I cant find the point where to hoist it. The manuals just says "dont use the intake manifold". So where can I attach the engine hoist chains to?

Thats all that has stumped me for now but thats only looking around the compartment. Im sure there will be more questions later so please check this thread because I will need much help this weekend...thanks

Also any tips appreciated...
 
photo-8.jpg

how do you remove this fuel line fitting :cry:
 
There's some stupid tool you need. I hate those fittings.

I used the stud at the rear driver side of the head that the ground strap goes to, and the AC bracket, like the other guy. Get a load leveler - they're worth their weight in gold. Are you pulling the whole drivetrain at once and swapping things over then reinstalling or just the engine? Make sure you don't "bonehead" the torque converter into the transmission if you have an auto.

Also, your description of the noises your engine is making sounds exactly like mine, except mine knocks VERY loudly on startup as well. Can't see the video since I'm at work though :(
 
Thanks for the reply...but can you tell me where to get the tool or what it looks like?

Just pulling out the engine and swap components over. Have the load leveler.

have the knock from the start also.

Just have that fuel line and the exhaust to undo...start with the exhaust i guess..save the worse for last.
 
exhaust is somewhat of a pain... the two nuts love to seize on (though you're in socal so you might get lucky.) I cut the studs, pound out the remnants, and put a new bolt in with a single tack weld to keep it from spinning.
 
A pic of what I've done...all thats left is the motor mounts and the transmission and it should all be free.
photo-10.jpg

Thanks for the tip on hoist points. Was eyeing that back bolt too.

Also thanks for the pic of the special tool. Was able to fab something out of a plastic hose clamp and got it to work.

photo-9.jpg
 
Got all bolts off but the last one located up top of the tranny. Its not a hex head but a torx. tried using a 12 pt 10mm socket but that has started to slip. Plan is to go to shop tomorrow and get the torx socket. What can I do to make things easier? Was thinking of droping the tranny x-member a bit. Any suggestions? And why the hell would they use so many different size bolts!

I think there is supposed to be 2 bolts up top but I only see one and another hole. I think the last mechanic who touched my jeep didnt bother with the second one. Do I really need the other bolt?:eyes:
 
Another one bitten by inverse torx... This is why I own a set of those sockets now. It's e12 size. Far easier to just pull the whole drivetrain intact IMO. The threads on the two inverse torx bolts are 3/8-16, get grade 8 hex head replacements of the same length and save yourself a boatload of pain on the next project.
 
Thank you much. going to get the socket and will change bolt(s)

Also the rad has been removed but what about the ac? thinking of just leaving it and crossing fingers.
 
Thank you much. going to get the socket and will change bolt(s)

Also the rad has been removed but what about the ac? thinking of just leaving it and crossing fingers.

If the A/C was working before, leave it intact and just be verrrrry careful when pulling the engine out. In an effort to try and move the A/C condenser, I broke a seal and out came the coolant so I just removed it entirely. It made the pull a lot easier with it out of the way. If you don't mind recharging the A/C afterwards, you could remove it, but remember to plug up any open lines so you don't get moisture in the system.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3CxkvrPYYw

Found this video while searching and this is exactly what it sounds like. KNocks on idle, acceleration, and at times disappears while decelerating under load and sometimes knocks with rpms while coasting.

WHat could cause this?

I'm 90% sure that noise is caused by one of your connecting rod bearings. Only other parts it could be is your rocker arms or push rods. When you get the engine out and on a stand, flip it over and pull the oil pan. From there you can access the connecting rods. Try to jiggle them back and forth by hand. If there is play, replace the bearing ($6.08 part) and your engine will be fine.
 
Separation Anxiety!!!!:flamemad:

All bolts out and trying to move engine slightly forward but no budge! Checked all around the housing and all bolts out with feeling and visual.

Any recommendations? Ill keep wrestling this beast for now..
 
Does it matter if the tranny is in park?

No.

Did you remove the four bolts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate?
 
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